Ascended Bolam glacier and descended a combination of the upper glacier, Bolam Gully and Hotlum-Bolam ridge. Beautiful approach day to Marine Camp, but at midnight the switch turned on the the winds started howling. The bergschrund was bridged in a couple of places so we crossed it. Perfect surface conditions for cramponing. No ice except a very short section of shards near the North Summit. Fierce headwinds during the climb, with summit gusts forecast at 60-70mph - short video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dslWOPxdpmY
A whiteout followed shortly. Proposed to my girlfriend at the summit... She said "yes"!
3h45 up, 6h RT. A "consolation prize" after finding Lassen closed. Trip report
Beautiful day on AG with no winds, warm temps, and the perfect size sun cups for finding nice steps in the snow while climbing. Storm clouds developed on our way down but didn't affect us.
Deb and I spent 12 hours climbing, only to get kicked off ~700ft. from the top of the route due to white out and ~50 mph. winds. The Ski down was unreal. Perfect snow, we couldn't have asked for any better. Once we skied over to the south side, down "giddy giddy", it turned into pure mash potatoes and was miserable skiing. All in all, it was beautiful. Next year, I WILL take the summit.
We were there to ski corn. Brutally windy three quarters of the way up from the parking area, and the ice never softened there. Fortunately we found our way into a lower basin and experienced a heavenly ski through some corn.
Storms had been blowing through over the previous week, but the weather cleared and made a nice two day window for climbing. Camped at Helen and went up Avy Gulch the next morning. Lots of snow, relatively small group of us, post-holing in snowshoes up to Red Banks, windy and a lenticular forming as we headed up, but luckily the wind died and the cloud dissipated. Almost turned around at the summit plateau, but pulled it together and made it. Long day back to Bunny Flat. One of those days where I was hating life in the moment, but so stoked once I was off the mountain and eating pizza and drinking beer.
Later season is never good, but in any season its a slog, either scree or snow...
Made the summit around noon via the West Face Gully
July 2009 via avalanche gulch
April 2010 via green butte overnight trip
April 2010 dayhike via Casaval ridge- 9 hours
April 2011 dayhike via green butte-7 hours (from BF to summit plateu. due to 80mph winds/decreasing visibility couldnt go onto the summit pinnacle itself)
April 2011 dayhike avalanche gulch 4 hours 50 mins from BF to the summit
May 2011-Casaval/WF overnight trip with WF descent
July 2011-Whitney Glacier overnight (Bolam TH)
Over-night at Helen, pretty cold I must say. 5 hours from Helen to the summit and back. Unfortunately partner wasn't well and could go to the summit with me. 3rd time so far this year!
My first ever 14er. Overnight trip---great time!
Invited by a friend to climb Shasta and couldn't say no. Long approach from Clear Creek, but very scenic. Loved it!
Fantastic weather, great team, great conditions. 5th time on summit. Nice meeting mrchad9 on the route going for his 7th summit.
Made it to the summit up the Avalanche Gulch route from Helen Lake in a little under 4 hours. It was a beautiful day and my first Fourteener.
This was my first time climbing a mountain and I had a wonderful time. I climbed Mount Shasta to honor the work of the Breast Cancer Fund.
Awesome Route, Awesome Weather.
Casaval Ridge is a must do. Camped at 11k and descended via AG. Thanks to a huge snow year we were able to climb this route much later than usual and enjoy great weather overall.
I started out from Bunny Flat TH at 2:30am. Against better judgement I followed a party of three and we all ended up a little lost. So, instead of heading up the intended Avalanche Gulch, I was now going up Sargents Ridge. There was no speed record today. After 12 and a half hours of climbing I turned around at the plataeu before the summit. It was a long walk out, especially without making the summit. But I'm sure it will be there for another day. Conditions were fantastic on the way up and who doesn't love post-holing on the way down?
Shasta is such a beautiful big lady! Avy Gulch may not be a technical climb, but it proved more strenuous than I thought. Great winter-like conditions this June.
Avy gulch with friends. All good.