super windy at the top
Climbed the standard Avalanche Gulch route with Ezra Danciu and George Sakaldasis. 16 hour day from the Bunny Flat Campground and back. Cold and windy on the summit but otherwise great weather. Long glissades on the descent made return much easier.
Great time up the Gulch. Good experience
Perfect way to spend July 4th! Rocketed up Avalanche Gulch after 4am start.
My first snow ascent. Went up Avalanche Gulch. Camped a 500' below lake Helen. Super clear day, the views were awesome. Glissading was a blast.
lots of lightening and thunder. lots of scree, one step up and three steps back.
great views when the clouds parted. basically no snow
Started from Pather Meodow Campground to ski bowl then up to the ridge. Came out by Red Bluffs. Hardly any snow on the route. No climbers around. Descended the Avalanche Gulch. 5th time up.
Perfect weather and good conditions. Hotlum-bolum ridge.
ALS-I hate thee
Group of 6 made it up to base camp about 9600ft on Aug 20th, barely a cloud in the sky. Left around 3:30am on the 21st and were standing on the summit before 10am. Hard consolidated snow, bit of blue ice on the ramp that could be avoided. Clear skies and amazing conditions so late in the year. Berg is still bridged, but outline showing clearly so we avoided.
Epic climb - 13hrs to top. Noticed symptoms of slight altitude sickness at the summit. Started climbing down immediately and made it back all right. Next time I will remember to bring more water and candy.
winter storm hella wind and snow
Ascended Bolam glacier and descended a combination of the upper glacier, Bolam Gully and Hotlum-Bolam ridge. Beautiful approach day to Marine Camp, but at midnight the switch turned on the the winds started howling. The bergschrund was bridged in a couple of places so we crossed it. Perfect surface conditions for cramponing. No ice except a very short section of shards near the North Summit. Fierce headwinds during the climb, with summit gusts forecast at 60-70mph - short video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dslWOPxdpmY
A whiteout followed shortly. Proposed to my girlfriend at the summit... She said "yes"!
3h45 up, 6h RT. A "consolation prize" after finding Lassen closed. Trip report
Beautiful day on AG with no winds, warm temps, and the perfect size sun cups for finding nice steps in the snow while climbing. Storm clouds developed on our way down but didn't affect us.
Deb and I spent 12 hours climbing, only to get kicked off ~700ft. from the top of the route due to white out and ~50 mph. winds. The Ski down was unreal. Perfect snow, we couldn't have asked for any better. Once we skied over to the south side, down "giddy giddy", it turned into pure mash potatoes and was miserable skiing. All in all, it was beautiful. Next year, I WILL take the summit.
We were there to ski corn. Brutally windy three quarters of the way up from the parking area, and the ice never softened there. Fortunately we found our way into a lower basin and experienced a heavenly ski through some corn.
Storms had been blowing through over the previous week, but the weather cleared and made a nice two day window for climbing. Camped at Helen and went up Avy Gulch the next morning. Lots of snow, relatively small group of us, post-holing in snowshoes up to Red Banks, windy and a lenticular forming as we headed up, but luckily the wind died and the cloud dissipated. Almost turned around at the summit plateau, but pulled it together and made it. Long day back to Bunny Flat. One of those days where I was hating life in the moment, but so stoked once I was off the mountain and eating pizza and drinking beer.
Later season is never good, but in any season its a slog, either scree or snow...
Made the summit around noon via the West Face Gully