Perfect weather. Lot's of slushy snow, snowshoes on the way up to Helen, camped on Thursday night, then headed up Friday morning. Headed up Sargent's Ridge to the top of Thumb Rock, then on up through the Red Banks to Misery Hill then the summit. Only two other people in the summit register.
Spent the night at Bunny Flat in my truck on Tuesday 5/8/12...headed to Horse Camp around Mid Day on Wednesday where I camped for the night. Headed uo to Helen on Thuirsday morning...60lb ski pulk (Sled) and snowshoes got me to helen around 1pm. Setup camp and remained there until early Saturday morning. Woke at 2am got dressed and was climbing by 3am. Reached Summit at 11am on May 12, 2012. I headed back to Helen and packed up camp for a long descent. Back at Bunny Flat by 6:30pm.
Success is subjective...20 minutes from Summit but turned around short to make an appointment with my ride South. When we thought the top of (Misery Hill?) was the summit, we were willing to push the clock but upon gaining it and learning there was a little more walking to be done, my friend & I called it.
Headed up to helen tues, high winds wed and thurs am, no summit possibility.
With a storm system having passed through during the week, but a 2 day window of good weather clearing any potential avalanche conditions, we drove from Corvallis, Oregon to Shasta on a Saturday morning and hiked up to Lake Helena to camp out in preparation for a Sunday morning summit attempt. We got to camp in 15-20 degree temperatures and 25 mph winds. With exhaustion and hypothermia becoming real concerns, we barely slept and bailed the next morning. Conditions were perfect on Sunday morning, but we had no energy left to make it.
Perfect conditions. Camped at Helen Lake. Such phenomenal place for sunrise and sunset. Love Avalanche Gulch1
Perfect conditions and a rare windless day, with Cindy, Rob, Tommi, Stefan, Mark, and Masalu.
Unseasonably warm temps actually added to the difficulty with slushy snow down low and the direct sun the entire two days on the mountain gave us both a bad burn. Otherwise a great time with interesting route finding and beautiful scenery.
Camped at 9000 ft, just below tree line. Two great days, and the route was empty save for the people coming up the gulch I ran into at the top. Snow still on the road in July, huge drifts on the trail. Pretty rocky though, not much snow in the ridge itself.
First ascent of a fourteener was marvelous, I've gone twice since!
Slept at the base of Lassen then went up that in the morning. Same day drove over to Shasta and camped somewhere between horse shoe and Helen Lake. Didn't sleep well and we decided to start walking at 2am or so. The other two in the team went to the top and I hung out at the top of misery hill not feeling great (ate some food and went down to the bottom of misery hill and felt much better). So I will have to go back again to do the last stretch. Next time I will make sure I get some sleep the two nights before... love this mountain.
Very cool trip. Two teams of four climbers (SMG). About a 12 hour day (round trip) from base camp (Marines camp). On the trail at 4 am. On top around noon. Back in camp around 3:30 pm. Good route conditions and most of the crevasses were bridged over. Began by traversing across the lower portion of the Bolam glacier to the Whitney moraine. Roped up and began the ascent. At about 12,000 ft we packed up the ropes and continued our ascent on a 40 degree slope to gain another 1,000 ft. This topped out at the plateau and the summit was just a short distance from there. Our descent route was down the Hotlum Bolam ridge. A few good places there to get in some good glisading.
Nice pre Rainier work out...will come back and climb again via a more technical line.
West Face Gully
Climbed with a group from Berkeley's First Presbyterian group -- I think 1985.
Winter Attempt of Casaval Ridge. Ton of powder on the approach to Horse Camp. Got turned around at 10,000 ft due to whiteout conditions and storms.
Good weather on a crowded 4th of July weekend. Headed up early and beat the crowds.
Spent a short night at Lake Helen before climbing and summitting the next morning. Left camp at 4am, and summitted just after 10 I believe. Beautiful weather, though alot of wind during the first night.
Of course, glissaded back down! A great trip.
Went up through Avalanche Gulch, spent night at Lake Helen. Snowed over night. Began ascent at 1:30am and enjoyed a beautiful view from the top!
super windy at the top