During a 12-day trip to Mt. Shasta, we caught a break in the weather and, on the suggestion of climbing ranger Eric White, took off for the north side. Supposedly noone had been up there in months. We abandoned the cars at 5660' where they got stuck in the snow on the dirt road, and we hiked into the Northgate trailhead on snowshoes. Two nights on the mountain. It was a spectacular climb. Weather was incredible. The isolation was perfect. Not a trace of a soul on the north side. Pure and undisturbed the entire way. Beautiful. We summited at 1305 hours under magnificent weather!
Started on trail. After a short period heel lift started on brand new La Sportivas. Foot damage would have runined my whole California trip had to go back. My other foorwear was not ready for the walk up Shasta in the snow, not crampon compatible..until next year!
My first big mountain. This is where is all started....
We set up base at Horse Camp - which is clean, lots of shade - offered a good oppt to acclimate and do a few surrounding hikes. The second night we departed at 1:30am from Horse Camp and reached the summit at 11:30am, exactly 10hrs later. Were surprised it took us so long, going at a pretty swift pace. In any case, stopping momentarily once an hour, fueling up w/ bits of food and water, taking in the view -- is really the perfect agenda. We couldn't have asked for better weather the entire 3 days, no clouds and little wind. Last year we summited Whitney - and concluded this climb to be more difficult, considering the technical gear involved. I logged into this site prior to both our climbs - and have always found it to be super helpful. Shasta is truly a beautiful mountain and worth every effort. Next, which peak to summit Summer 2006! (Maurice Perkins, Matt Andrejczak, Joel Kennedy, Jay Miranda, Forrest Shaw).
The San Gorgonio chapter and the San Diego chapter of CMFs had a blast; met some new friends who now comprise two new chapters, San Jose and Mt. Shasta. Looking forward to getting back and meeting some Lemurians...
All I can say is, wow! What a view from the top!
It was a great climb. My first steep glacier climb. Very strenuous, but a great experience.
Good climb! Narrowly avoided a boulder dislodged by a careless climber on the way up... and had my permit checked by a ranger on the summit. Sheesh.
Started late from Horse Camp (8:30 AM) but conditions were excellent (clear skies, crisp nieve throughout, intense wind mid-way up ridge to summit) so I made great time. Easy solo by staying left of gendarmes. Summitted by 1 PM, down (Avalanche Gulch) by 4.
Reached summit with Ritesh (Tau) in great weather. Had the summit to ourselves, met only 2 other climbers on the summit plateau. Winds were moderate. we climbed the biggest chute to the right of the Red Banks and also descended through it. Snow was quite firm in the morning and didn't see too much rockfall. We had tried climbing Casaval Ridge in April but conditions were much more difficult then. Overall a great climb and Shasta is a great mountain.
Great weather, solo hike starting from bunny flat at 3:20, summited at 9:30, back to the car around 1pm. For a Rhode Islander, this mountain was a treat.
Awesome climb. Had the summit to myself on a Satuday morning for over an hour! Will certainly do this one again!
I got it on my 2nd try. The first time I had to turn back due to weather on memorial day weekend 2005. I started at horse camp this time and made it to the summit in 51/2 hours. I was the first one on top and had the summit to myself for about a 1/2 hour. What a great mountain.
Success at last! 2nd attempt. First time got stuck on Casaval Ridge by Wx for 2 days.
A good climb, fantastic weather (although Windy as hell on the summit!). What a beautiful mountain!
Pretty hard climb, we summited at 9:00 AM from helen lake. Very very high winds at the top made it less enjoyable, but the clear sky made up for it.
Skinned up @ 3AM or so from Bunny Flat. Picked up my partner (Nice French fellow on Rando gear, his name eludes me) in the basin at the base of the West Face Gully. We skinned up but had to kick steps for the last 500' or so. I don't recall if we used crampons or not. We ended up leaving our skis at the top of Misery Hill, before the summit block. The skiing down Misery Hill is the worst I've ever done - complete survival snowboarding for me, and I am a very competent steep-chute snowboarder. The exact opposite of fun. Recommend crampons & feet for this section, leave your skis at the base of Misery.
West Face Gully itself was an endless beautiful run and the highlight of the trip. Back at the car by 4pm, after French fellow took an hour or so to pack up his overnight gear at his base camp. 4:00 PM or so return? 11+ hours RT.
We had 33 climbers from Venture Crew 249 Moraga California and Troop 341 Oakland California. We divided the group into four groups to keep the team size at 10 or below. The day was glorious and the weather perfect. We had 22 successful summiters out of the group, but all accomplished our goal of "taking a look at the mountain."
We'll be back.
5th trip to the summit, this time with the Gazelle. Other ascents included Casaval Ridge and the Hotlum Bolam.
Camped at horse camp (7880 ft). Started summit bid at 1:30 am and summitted at around 10:45 am. Able to glissade most of the way down. Humbling experience! Great mountain! wonderful people! Will go again!