North side route. 4 of 8 made the top was a perfect day, wind was low.
Perfect weather, perfect climb. Summit on first attempt. Camped at Helen Lake, start at 4am, summit at 8am.
Camped on the ridge Friday night.Under a full moon left camp at 3:00 AM on the summit at 8:30.Passed 34 people on their way up but had the summit to myself for 15 minutes.Another great trip on a great mountain.
No summit. I arrived on the 18th just as a LP system moved in and blanketed the mountain. I spent the entire time on the mountain in rain, snow, sleet and even hail. Some suffering was done but I will be back.
clear creek route for the 2nd year in a row. snow and weather conditions were pretty good. we camped at 8000ft and made it to 13000ft on summit day. i was feeling good, but my climbing partner got hypothermia and we had to turn around. doh!
Last minute change of plans from Casaval to AG, but a great time anyway. Met a lot of great people. (June 06)
After nixing W Face solo in the dark, I headed up Avy Gulch on my skis at 330a on Friday. After reports of epic corn on Thur I couldn't say no. I was able to skin all the way to 11500ft before the pitch and hard snow made it a little dicy. Threw on the crampons from there to Thumb rock. I dropped the skis at Thumb rock for the final climb to the summit. It kicked my butt to put it simply, summiting at 1p along side a few other skiers. On the hump down Misery Hill I wish I had my skis, as the corn was already forming and softening. When I got back to the Thumb at 2p the bowl was in perfect form. Amazing corn from the Thumb to 9K, where it started getting slushy, was able to ski all the way to Bunny Flat in 50min from the Thumb. Awesome Mt, especially in spring conditions on skis. There were a few old wet slides coming off the upper portions of Casaval, then a few new ones on the lower portion of Sargents.
We attempted Green Butte, but were turned back do to a mix of exaustion, no ropes, and bad weather on the summit.
July 2004: Avalanche Gulch
June 2000: Avalanche Gulch
Must do some other route next.
Great climb this year. Lots of snow. Horse Camp is buried with only a little of the chimney showing.
this mountain found itself underneath my crampons during Memorial Day weekend in 2005. There was a fair amount of snow and the view was pretty good.
Climbed it bare. Easier and safer to do it with snow on it. Bivied directly under the Red Banks, 5 feet away.
To see a trip report - Mt. Shasta Avalanche Gulch.
I have a route page, Avalanche Gulch, on my website, climbwild.net/.
This was the best glissade i've ever done
Headed up Green Butte Ridge by accident, camping on a narrow ridge around 11k. Headed for summit at night; stopped below Misery Hill as weather went south. Retreated and after packing up camp had to descend in a whiteout. See TR for details.
Summited with my wife and what seemed like half the state of California. A friend of ours saw a guy take an early morning glissade attempt that resulted in a 1,000'+ rag doll from the Red Banks area. Don't glissade on ice, people!
Partner got sick, but I went to summit via Avalanche Gulch.
Climbed twice, Once by Avalanche Gulch and once via Hotlum Glacier Left. Windy and stormy the first time but had superb weather on the Hotlum...that is an excellent route.
My first alpine climb and a great bachelor party for my friend Daniel! Got a late start on Summit Day and certainly learned my lesson nearly missing a whiteout on the summit plateau that rushed in as we descended Misery Hill. The glissade was great, Bagger lost control on a safe runout above Helen. He suffered no injuries though; it was hillarious!
Able to ski from near the top!
Best Glissade of my entire life. From the Red Banks to Lake Helen in 5 minutes!