Starting under full moon at 2am up Av Gulch I did not need a headlamp at all. Summit 9am. Note to self: Stick to early season on the volcanoes as descending (or ascending) on volcanic scree sucks.
I've been to Shasta twice, in July 2005 and June 2006. The first time was with Sierra Wilderness Seminars, and the second time was with some friends from Las Vegas. Weather was good both times, although in June 2006 it was very windy between Helen Lake and Red Banks. Here are some pictures:
Avalanche Gulch - slog up the snow. Lightning on the summit - very scary. Summitted and got the hell out of there. Slept in a snow cave that night and came down the following morning.
Success on the first try. The two following tries, Casaval Ridge in winter...not so much.
shasta was my playing ground for many years. she kept me preped for other climbs around the states and the world. Just want to thank her for not killing me in the process. I did many trainings and shorter ice climbs on her and Shastinas flanks, as well as 37 summit ascents out of 42 attempts... almost every route and then some not in the guides. There's alot to do and when you feel you're experienced enough, throw out the guide and let your mind seek out the lines...they're there! I was also able to solo anything not requiring too much glacier travel and most of these in winter. Her ridges are super in winter and it's great 'cause you're alone...no crowds. She gave me the confidence to take on anything in climbing and life in general. I live elsewhere now, but hope those of you who are climbing her now will take care of her and protect her. Get solid on your skills before going to the next level, take her SERIOUSLY and hopefully you'll be able to look back and say thank you to her as well.
What a great peak. Started climbing at around 3am and found perfect snow condition. The way down was a bit treacherous, but found a scree field to the west of the ridge and rode it to the snow field. Glissaded for about a quarter of a mile on the snow, and had a grand old time.
Great time every time. Been up the Gulch so many times I cant remember. Took a nasty fall on July 4, 2001 solo climb from the middle of the heart and flew out into the gulch. Hard ice is slick and provides no purchase for self arrest. While engaged in my best rag doll impersenation, my crampons some how reached up and tore up my shoulder. Finally came to a stop just above Helen. Sustained concussion from ice bullock my head bounced off of. Dizzy and nauseous, I removed ice axe from right knee, applied first aid, and bled my way back to the car. Drove to Burger King in a daze, ate a Whopper and drove back to the bay area. The next day I decided to go to the emergency room, and my doctor told be I was stupid. But man, what a great time. Cant wait to go back again this year. Casaval in Winter, Solo. Now that sounds fun.
Parked at Brewers Creek and walked into trailhead. GPS'd our entrance gully in case we descended in dusk. Headed straight up around to the first rockband. Proceeded to set up camp, giggle and sip schnapps. Unfortunately a stumble out of the tent resulted in breaking my toe. Woke up in am, stuffed it into boot and proceeded up to second camp at 10,500. Set off for ice route and summit in the am with the 800 feet of nice blue ice in front of us. All things are not what they seem, what looked like four hours of simulclimbing turned into 7 hours of pitching out and protecting bad ice. Summitted arounnd 1pm and headed down through the snow cupped and soft Wintum/Bolum route. Needed to traverse way over to find our camp..nothing like being able to see it but not reach it. Made camp by 3:30, quick break down and back out to car by 7pm. Toe was black and purple!
Made the mistake of not going to the upper camp Avy Gultch before starting our accent. It was a long day!
Camped at lake helen and summited around 9a.m. the next day. Beautiful weather! officially hooked on mountaineering!
Very warm day on Shasta
Camped at Sierra Club cabin the first night and about 11000 feet the second night. Summitted about 8.30am. What a great climb. The descent sucked - by 11am everything was slushy and we postholed all the way to Bunny Flat.
awesome, doing it again in a few months.
Took a 5 day mountaineering class which included the summit -- I was hooked on mountaineering after this!
Standing by the Red Banks, the peak still looked so far away--with Misery Hill in the way. But the glissade down the gulch was amazing--it was carved out like bobsled run. What took a grueling 5 hours to climb, only took 20 minutes to descend.
My favorite trip so far.
Climbed with Randy, Mike, Eric and Jeff. Camped out at Lake Helen. We broke camp at 0100 and were on the summit at 0630. Perfect conditions.
Pretty icy at the top but still fun.
First time on a fourteener. Camped at Helen Lake. Mild AMS symptoms but a fun time.
led up by a guide at the end of crevasse rescue class.
Was able to link the snowfields together to climb on snow most of the way. Traversed to the Wintun snow field at 13k. There was soft snow on the snow field which made it kind of sketchy. I saw two people in three days on the east side of the mountain. The Mud Creek falls is pretty amazing.