Mount Shasta Climber's Log

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rkymtn

rkymtn - Jun 16, 2007 7:13 pm Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2007

Avalanche Gulch  Sucess!

I climbed with a couple coworker friends. The conditions were drier than the ideal, but there was still snow where we needed it for the ascent and glissades down. We based out of Lake Helen and beat the crowds up. Great views, great weather, great day!

graham

graham - Jun 4, 2007 8:48 pm Date Climbed: May 26, 2007

Avy Gulch  Sucess!

Dayhiked the AG on a beautiful day with a ton of people on the mountain. Started at Bunny Flats at 3am, summited at 8:30am, started down ~9:30 and got back to Bunny Flats at 1pm. This is my 11th of 15 CA 14ers

Deb

Deb - May 30, 2007 12:43 am Date Climbed: May 26, 2007

AG  Sucess!

Perfect weather and the snow was not totally destroyed by glissade and bootpack yet. Weekend trip turned dayhike (thanks Tina!:) So glad we did it on Saturday 'cause that crowd headed up in the afternoon looked mighty frightening! Yes, I am slow - the altitude was knocking my pride over 13K' but I was happy to summit in just over 9 hours. Awesome glissade down and a million laughs with my pal. Love that mountain!

kovarpa

kovarpa - May 29, 2007 10:00 pm Date Climbed: May 27, 2007

West Face  Sucess!

A fine ski descent, a good alternative to the zoo in AG.

Ashburt

Ashburt - May 29, 2007 10:28 am Date Climbed: May 26, 2007

Awesome  Sucess!

Amazing mountain. Weather was perfect! Started at Horsecamp at 3am and took 10 hours roundtrip. Will be back next year!

thundercloud

thundercloud - May 25, 2007 5:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2002

Avy Gulch / Hotlum-Bolam  Sucess!

AG: One day scamper, <8 hours up, <3 hours down with a very wild and long glissade. Had pizza and beer, then drove back to Portland afterward. Silly.
HB: 6/2/02, cruised up in leisurely time. Route straightforward, a bit more interesting and less crowded than AG.

EverydayExplorer

EverydayExplorer - May 25, 2007 1:48 am Date Climbed: May 24, 2007

AG  Sucess!

This was my second try after being literally blown off last time ie crampons over helmet. This time went much smoother with just a fair breeze and rolling foggy clouds. 10 hrs car to car, good time all around.

Matt Worster

Matt Worster - May 13, 2007 7:48 pm Date Climbed: May 12, 2007

Shasta - AG  Sucess!

4:30 am start, 12:15 pm summit, 3:45 pm return to Bunny Flat. Wind packed snow above Red Banks made the descent tough on the ankles as there was no digging in. Continuous glissade from Red Banks to the rocks above Helen Lake - no groove yet but there will be. Breey most of the day, and on the cold side.

SFMountaineer

SFMountaineer - May 7, 2007 1:12 pm Date Climbed: May 5, 2007

Avalanche Gulch

Made it to Helen lake saturday, but fierce winds all night and into the next day unfortunately sent us home. Amazing experience and first time alpine climb, will attempt again this summer.

Scott Dusek

Scott Dusek - Apr 30, 2007 3:53 pm Date Climbed: Apr 29, 2007

Shastafication  Sucess!

Epic descent, total whiteout, skied from thumb rock at 13k in zero visibility. Made it down to find my car's brakes were out... it turned out to by quite an action packed trip.

-Scotty

Peak_Bagger

Peak_Bagger - Apr 17, 2007 4:57 am Date Climbed: May 31, 2006

Casaval

Fun snow plow, so much snow it made the route pretty non technical.

hikerbrian

hikerbrian - Mar 20, 2007 12:25 am Date Climbed: May 28, 2006

Avalanche Gulch  Sucess!

Very pretty mountain. Fun weather on Saturday (40 MPH winds, maybe 20 degrees, blowing snow and fog, 50' visibility), had to camp lower than we had planned because it was too windy to make it to Helen Lake. Then Saturday dawned clear and perfect. Straightforward climb via Thumb Rock; although snow sounded more hollow than I would have liked. We got off the mountain before it got very warm. The glissade down the Heart was awesome.

Zzyzx - Mar 19, 2007 6:33 pm Date Climbed: Mar 18, 2007

Casaval Ridge  Sucess!

Winter ascent in a day from Bunny Flat with Diggler. About 16 hrs. round trip - lack of acclimatization and 1 hour of sleep definitely slowed us down. Perfect weather and condition on the route.

mow10

mow10 - Mar 17, 2007 6:33 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2003

Lightest 24 hours of the year  Sucess!

Starting under full moon at 2am up Av Gulch I did not need a headlamp at all. Summit 9am. Note to self: Stick to early season on the volcanoes as descending (or ascending) on volcanic scree sucks.

Mescalito345

Mescalito345 - Mar 11, 2007 1:37 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2006

Avalanche Gulch  Sucess!

I've been to Shasta twice, in July 2005 and June 2006. The first time was with Sierra Wilderness Seminars, and the second time was with some friends from Las Vegas. Weather was good both times, although in June 2006 it was very windy between Helen Lake and Red Banks. Here are some pictures:

http://hong.smugmug.com/share/5vRMbTRHLtX9g

http://pkuroda.smugmug.com/gallery/1598686#77599659

hockeyman

hockeyman - Mar 7, 2007 4:31 pm

Mt Shasta  Sucess!

Avalanche Gulch - slog up the snow. Lightning on the summit - very scary. Summitted and got the hell out of there. Slept in a snow cave that night and came down the following morning.

lizrdboy

lizrdboy - Feb 23, 2007 3:18 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 1999

Hotlam Glacier Route  Sucess!

Success on the first try. The two following tries, Casaval Ridge in winter...not so much.

highice - Jan 30, 2007 6:54 pm

thank you mt shasta!  Sucess!

shasta was my playing ground for many years. she kept me preped for other climbs around the states and the world. Just want to thank her for not killing me in the process. I did many trainings and shorter ice climbs on her and Shastinas flanks, as well as 37 summit ascents out of 42 attempts... almost every route and then some not in the guides. There's alot to do and when you feel you're experienced enough, throw out the guide and let your mind seek out the lines...they're there! I was also able to solo anything not requiring too much glacier travel and most of these in winter. Her ridges are super in winter and it's great 'cause you're alone...no crowds. She gave me the confidence to take on anything in climbing and life in general. I live elsewhere now, but hope those of you who are climbing her now will take care of her and protect her. Get solid on your skills before going to the next level, take her SERIOUSLY and hopefully you'll be able to look back and say thank you to her as well.

LC

LC - Jan 12, 2007 3:50 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2006

Hotlum-Bolum Ridge  Sucess!

What a great peak. Started climbing at around 3am and found perfect snow condition. The way down was a bit treacherous, but found a scree field to the west of the ridge and rode it to the snow field. Glissaded for about a quarter of a mile on the snow, and had a grand old time.

MtnAv8r

MtnAv8r - Jan 6, 2007 10:13 pm

Every Year

Great time every time. Been up the Gulch so many times I cant remember. Took a nasty fall on July 4, 2001 solo climb from the middle of the heart and flew out into the gulch. Hard ice is slick and provides no purchase for self arrest. While engaged in my best rag doll impersenation, my crampons some how reached up and tore up my shoulder. Finally came to a stop just above Helen. Sustained concussion from ice bullock my head bounced off of. Dizzy and nauseous, I removed ice axe from right knee, applied first aid, and bled my way back to the car. Drove to Burger King in a daze, ate a Whopper and drove back to the bay area. The next day I decided to go to the emergency room, and my doctor told be I was stupid. But man, what a great time. Cant wait to go back again this year. Casaval in Winter, Solo. Now that sounds fun.

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