Have climbed Shasta via Casaval Ridge and the standard Avi Gulch. Casaval ridge is a true classic and must do. Avi Gulch always has something fun and interesting to offer... From scary rock/ice bombs buzzing your head in the dark - to someone with hug legs taking gigantic steps everywhere so you have nowhere to step...:)
A long, very long, staircase to the top....suitable for one day.
with Miguel. Very windy, but a good, quick climb in less than ideal (not much ice) conditions.
Simulclimbed the Hotlum Left Gully Direct with kovarpa. Started out from our camp at 10,200' at ~ 3:30am. I dropped one of Pavel's short screws on the upper gully and lost an hour roundtrip as I had to downclimb 500 feet to retrieve it. Summited by 10am. Windy & chilly. Back at Northgate trailhead by 4pm. Absolutely awesome burgers & garlic fries at Billy Goats Tavern in town.
Route Climbed: Casaval Ridge
Day Climbed: April 8, 2007
My 3rd time day hiking Casaval Ridge. This time with Rick Kent in 12.5 hrs car-to-car. We started at 2:55AM from Bunny Flat and I summited at 11:50AM. Tough conditions (cold, windy & whiteouts). We encountered whiteout conditions several times that made us stop altogether and wait. In fact, I could have ended up yesterday as another mountaineering statistic. On the descent, I was stuck in a total whiteout while descending what I thought was Misery Hill. Turns out I descended to about 12,700' on the upper Konwakiton Glacier (east side of Shasta). If it wasn't for a clearing, I would have end up at Mud Creek Canyon and falling through a crevasse on the way probably. There was a skier, too, who was next to me but then disappeared from my view while on the whiteout. I later found out that his two other ski buddies were asking for him at Bunny Flat. They said that he was overdue. They called SAR.
Route Climbed: Casaval Ridge
Day Climbed: May 29, 2005
Great surface conditions on Casaval Ridge on May 29, 2005. Started hiking in at 2:30AM from Bunny Flat with awagher and Matthew Holliman. Hard snow crust.....cramponed up all the way to the summit. Matthew and I encountered 35-40mph wind with blowing snow that stinged once it hit our faces; also encountered white-out clouds (we could only see 50 yards ahead; had to stop a few times to wait for the less-than 5 second semi-clearing to get a quick glimpse where to move up next; in fact, we had to wait a few minutes so that I could see the Catwalk; same thing happened just after topping out Casaval. I told Matthew we have to stop right here because I was able to see the drop down to the Whitney Glacier. There we waited several minutes while being hammered by the winds until finally there was a clearing and I could see Misery Hill. From there on, it went smoothly. I reached the summit at 10:57AM with Matthew a few minutes behind as he went up one of those short south-facing chutes just below the summit. Saw only two other people at the top. We started down at 11:25AM. I glissaded from just below the Red Banks to within a few hundred yards of Lake Helen. Back at Bunny Flat at 1:50PM where awagher had beer waiting for us. Later met up with rhyang at Lalo's restaurant in town for an early dinner.
Route Climbed: Casaval Ridge
Date Climbed: May 30, 2004
After climbing Lassen Peak on Saturday 5/29/04 as a warm-up, I climbed Casaval solo in a day. I guess I was dragging *ss because it took me 10 hrs to summit. I left Bunny Flat at 2:30AM and made the summit around 12:30PM. Stayed there for 40 minutes just watching all the crowds. It was very windy for most of the route. In fact in the flat section just below Misery Hill, the wind almost knocked me off balance a few times. I left the summit at 1:10PM. I put my diaper trash bag around my butt just below the Red Banks and glissaded down to Lake Helen in like 20 minutes. It was a blast! Past Lake Helen, I continued glissading as much as I could. I got back to my car at Bunny Flat a few minutes past 3:30PM. Changed clothes and drove down to Lalo's for a mexican feast.
Route Climbed: Hotlum-Bolam Ridge
Date Climbed: June 15, 2003
A great north side climb of Mount Shasta. We were a team of 5: Mike (mdostby), Alex (agorokhov), Jim (jimconsid), Ralph and myself. We started the approach hike on Saturday June 14th and made camp around 10,100 feet. Got an alpine start next day at 3:00AM. Sunrise happened just around 12,000' as I waited for the rest of the team to catch up. All 5 of us summited on this beautiful Sunday morning. As compared to last year, this year I could clearly see Mt. McLoughlin all the way on the southern Oregon Cascades.
Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch
Date Climbed: June 2, 2002
A very rewarding climb. Excellent day for it too. Hardly any wind at the summit, sunny, clear and plain nice. Made the summit at 9:15AM. On my way down as I was arriving back to camp in Lake Helen, I witnessed a helicopter landing on Lake Helen. Apparently, some climber dislocated his shoulder blade (or something like that) in attempt to self-arrest in the Red Banks area and was evacuated off the mountain by a CHP helicopter. I took pictures of the helicopter landing and taking off. I'll post them sometime here in the near future.
climbed via Clear Creek Route. No snow til Wintun Glacier. Death scree. Left springs at 4am summitted at noon. Spent two hours on the summit, an hour and a half of which I was entirely alone. Even squeeked in a little cat nap!
Did the Hotlum Glacier route. Amazing.
And again on June 8, 2006.
Never gets boring.
After a slushy march from Horse Camp, without snowshoes or skis, ended up packing it in early with billowing clouds on the approach. Next year will pray for a better snow/ski season and give it another shot, this time with skis for descent.
Ascended with my climbing partner to 11.5k where we dug out our platform. Went to bed at 7pm. At 3:30am we were on the glacier; travelled up the middle of the hotlum; then up the headwall; finally reached the summit within a few minutes of noon.
This is a very fun and varied route--and for us, quite tiring as well. The rock is sketchy and takes forever, so be warned...:)
dropped 4ft of snow on me overnight at our bivy site in the heart on the avy gulch route on thanksgiving 2005. so no summit. we turned around and barely missed a thick powdery avy.
A nearly full moon lit the ascent from Helen Lake to the Red Banks. The snow was firm for the climb, then sun softened for an ideal descent down the well travelled glissade path through the Red Banks, all the way past the bottom of The Heart. The summit was cold in stiff winds, but views were beautiful. I found this climb to be delightful.
After spending two days on the Whitney Glacier practicing crevass rescue with USMC Mountain Leaders Course, we got to summit in 30 - 40 mph winds. Blew two of our tents off the mountain!
Successful return to Shasta after getting weathered off in 2005.
Summitted in ~7 hours from a camp at Lake Helen. 300 Metres vertical above Helen to the first snow and big sun cups below the Red Banks. One chute was navigable with snow all the way through to the bottom of Misery Hill which was just scree.
Four hours back down to Helen, break camp and a further 3.25 hours to the parking lot made for a 16.5 hour day.
Clear throughout but winds gusting to 80kph from the top of MH to the summit made for a cold day. Counted ~20 people on the summit with us and many more en route up or down.
Great views from up top and nice to add another Cascade volcano to the list.
A very rewarding trip and our first 14er. Climbed with my wife and a couple friends. The ice in the steep chute through the Red Banks had us a little nervous. Strong winds on the summit, but a beautiful day without a cloud in the sky. Views from the top were incredible!
Climbed up to Shastarama point
A beautiful day with only moderate winds for my second attempt. The glissade from the red banks was great. A lack of snow on the morraines below the heart made descending on loose rock a real pain though and I have some messed up feet as evidence. I'm going to have to make climbing this mountain a habit, although will have to try a new route next time.
Left the ski bowl late at 2pm, attain the ridge and progress very quickly. I had a little problem ascending the route above the Red Banks, so I had to descend some to find another no name chute to bring me out to the Red Bluffs. From here it was very fast because of the lack of hours of sunlight. After the summit and numerous helicopter buzz's, I ran/rock skied to Helen Lake to find out why the sheriff helicopter is flying all around the mountain.
Here, a fellow hiker was missing there partner and called the sheriff's and reported them gone since noon. The other hiker ended up hiking out Mud Creek where they got help. Wonder how cold it was that night?
I summited with a group of people guided by Shasta Mountain Guides.
The original plan was to do Avalanche Gulch Expedition Style, but instead we did the harder West Face Route alpine style, because of lack of snow in avalanche gulch. Our high camp was at Hidden Valley (9500 ft). From there we started at 4am and summited after approx. 10 hours and several people giving up along the way. On the way back, we glissaded down the west face. Our guides Kaysa and Doug were great. They were strong, competent and very good teachers. I'll definitely hire them again for ski mountaineering trips etc.
Avalanche Gulch was too dry so we took the West Face route. High winds up on top but a beautiful day.
The slog up the west face was well worth the glissade on the way down, great fun!