This was my first 14er and it really put the hook in me. Another reformed alchie who loves to climb.
Day hiked from Bunny Flats, left around 1:30 am and hit the summit under perfect weather around 11:00 am. Had the summit to ourselves, returned via Avalanche Gulch.
Very windy towards the summit but otherwise great weather - maybe too warm, snow is gets slushy in the afternoon - I hope it gets colder so the snow lasts longer...
Climbed solo in a day. 8.5 hrs from Bunny Flat to the summit. I started feeling tired and slowed down above 12K. Good weather, but it got very windy at times on hgher elevations, probably well over 40 mph. Only one guy who passed me earlier was on the summit. He made it in 6 hrs from the parking lot. Way to go! He snowboarded down the Avalanche Gulch, I came down on Casaval.
I've climbed this mountain 4 times before (twice from Avalanche Gulch and twice from West Face Gully) so this time, my friend Mike and I decided on Casaval Ridge route.
We got into Redding, CA late (by plane) so we only had time to get to Horse Camp. Got up early and left at 2 am. Near the top of Casaval Ridge, we traversed across to the West Face Gully (should have stayed on Casaval Ridge!) and continued up over Misery Hill and across the summit plateu. Reached summit by 9 am. There must have been 100 people climbing from Lake Helen that day! Descended via Avalanche Gulch (glassade!)
Beautiful day and overall, very enjoyable climb.
Great trip with Shasta Mountain Guides. Left Horse Camp at 1:45 am and reached the summit at 11:30 am. It was windy at the top but other than that the weather was terrific.
We arrived at the trailhead at 6:30PM, hiked up to base camp and slept beneath the stars. Woke up at 3:30AM and started up. We passed by a guided climber on the way up and were the first to make it to the summit that day. The views were mostly obscured by the dense wildfire smoke, but we could spot Lassen Peak, which we summited two days later. Made it back to the trailhead by 6:30PM for a 24 hour climb.
Climbed the route over 3 days in order to acclimatize before taking some friends on the north siide. It was challenging the first day going over some of the lower gendarmes with a full pack (skipped a few of the hardest ones); bivvied at the last flat spot, at 12000'. Gorgeous weather the following morning for the rest of the climb - the Catwalk was fun, as was climbing the rime on the pinnacle that tops the ridge. Continued the fun by going around the N side of Misery Hill on the steep upper firn of the Whitney Gl. in order to gain the summit plateau. Descended the ridge to my bivvy and had another beautiful night out. Not another soul on the ridge the whole time...
Solo climb on my first time up this peak.
Skied from near the summit down to the parking lot. Awesome!
Climbed Casaval Ridge in a day with Divesh. Got about 1/3 up Misery Hill and turned around due to late hour and general lack of motivation to sign the register one more time. Beautiful weather and overall perfect conditions. We met 5 other people on the route.
Attempted Cascade Gulch in August 1982 and encountered deteriorating weather conditions. This time I tried Avalanche Gulch. Packed for an overnighter but again encountered a weather system so boogied up and down in 10 hours.
My first real mountaineering experience. Awesome route. We had great weather going up. By the time we got to the summit we were in a whiteout and it started snowing. On the way down we were in a blizzard with gusts of wind reaching 40-50 mph and visibility less than 20' at times. Good learning experience.
Great conditions and Great weather - Easy route but a lot of fun!
Really enjoyed it - why else would we do it, right? But I hated the scree on the way down... next time I am going only when there is snow.
Wow, what a mountain!! This was an amazing trip for me. I had finally climbed higher and longer than I ever had. This was one of the most demanding things I have ever done but well worth the suffering. The Wintun glacier route is fairly easy until you hit the glacier itself then it is 1100 ft of 45-55 mixed hard ice and snow and a quick scramble to the summit pinnacle. A slight case of AMS, likely thanks to our SWS mountain goat of a guide, I returned to our camp and immediately felt better. A long car ride out from the trail head and we were at the hotel lounging in the hot-tub.
A great climb for beginners: took a group of novices up during great weather. The icy chute up through the redwall was exciting for all. Windy on top of course. The glissade down the snowfield was a hoot.
Climbed once in June 97, and twice in July 97.
lots of soft snow - right from the parking lot. camped at (where is?) lake helen. early next morning, the snow had hardened enough to use crampons (much better than postholing mid calf deep as the day before). great views of the glaciers from the top. was fun glissading back (glissaded almost the whole way back to the horse camp - as much as the soft afternoon snow would allow).
On a warm day in July we started out of the parking lot before dawn. The conditions looked quite good and we opted to hike the Cassaval Ridge route. As the sun came up we were quite happy for our decision, as we watched Avalanche Gully fill up with people. Doing the summit pyramid was a rush....!!! and then we descended Avalanche Gully with a retreat to Shasta City for the Buffet Dinner there. A wonderful, and high milage day.