After getting off route, I slogged up the ridge next to the White Salmon Glacier on the way up, intersecting the correct route near the top of the glacier. Taking the proper route on the way down was much easier and more fun. A mellow day on a nice-looking mountain. Trip report.
Couldn't ask for better conditions! At night the temps were in the mid 50s at high camp. Sky was a little hazy from all the forest fires. We climbed the SE ridge and might have gotten a little off course, because we ran into some 5.7-5.8ish moves.
The problems started when they had sold out the permits. We had to camp low and I couldn't talk anyone into getting an early start. Having not been there we had no idea how long it would take to hike up. By the time we got to the pyramid, folks were coming down. We scrambled up the central gully to 8800 ft but were continuously dodging rocks from climbers rappelling down. After I got hit on the head with a rock I decided to bag a summit attempt. I must say though, it was was beautiful up there and I will go back next year and climb the S.E. Rib. I'll also procure my permit a little earlier. Well worth the hike, but mine turned into a scouting mission.
Two-day adventure with excellent Mt. Baker Mountain Guides John and Jenni Minier. Camped at the "Eagle's Nest." Loved the upper Curtis Glacier, Hell's Highway and the approach to the summit pyramid. What a terrific varied hike - it offers some of everything and then some. Quite the day when you summit and then come out all the way back to Austin Pass TH. IVD
Great route, couldn't find the chimneys going up, which made for a spicy variation. The upper Curtis glacier was a bit icy making our extra ice tool a great asset as well as a few ice screws.
08/23/13 via Fisher Chimneys and SE rib and descended the Sulfide Glacier Route. 5 1/2 hours from TH to top of whinny side. From there 3hr 20 mins to summit. 4 1/2 hours from summit sulfide glacier TH
Got stuck behind a big traffic jam at 8,800 ft on the Southeast Rib and had to turn back...will be back next summer!
8hrs car to car (on 3hrs of sleep), the DAY AFTER doing two peaks and over 6500' of elevation gain in the Enchantments. SE Rib was fun, with about 3 sections each of 5.4 and Class 4. Downclimbed the standard gully.
The mixture of ice, snow and rock made it a real struggle that was a little much for us this time. I might want to redo this in August.
My first technical summit. It was awesome. I'm hooked.
1st climbing school. Good moderate mtn
Lake Ann trail from mount baker ski area up the fischer chimneys across the white salmon. Camped on the sulphide climbed via summit peak coulier. Awesome hike however sulphide glacier Shannon creek side is boring.
camped out at 6500', left camp for summit around 5:30AM, very clear day. Great views from the top, rappeled down. Overall great experience.
Beautiful mountain - can't say the same for the Shannon Ridge trail.
Smiley and I met some of his friends for this climb, we camped near the pit toilet the first evening, roped up and climbed up the glacier in the morning, met lots of people coming down both on the snow and on the rock chute, where we had to wait some for them to pass on down. A nice scramble to the summit, of course great views of Baker, a little too hazy to see distant peaks. After returning to camp and having lunch, Smiley and I packed up and hiked back to the trail head, the rest spent a second night at camp.
Via Sulphide glacier. Once we made it to the rockpile, we missed the route to the right of "Casper" and did some unprotected class 5 moves on the rock which made for some harrowing times.We rapped down from the summit, which was fun. The soft snow on the descent also made self arrest almost impossible and there were several areas with no runout. Be careful out there.
Spectacular setting and views. The glacier travel was straightforward. I thought the southeast rib was pretty exciting and exposed (at least for someone like myself who doesn't rock climb much and also when wearing mountaineering boots). Rappeled down the gully which is almost completely bare of snow right now.
Made camp above 7000 feet. Sunset was amazing. Still hard snow in gully even in August. Got up and down just ahead of group of 9 climbers.
5 quick rappels and off we go.
New to SP: signing summit logs.
Climbed the Sulphide route in 2010 after getting chased off Silver Star Mt. by smoke from the fires in Stehekin. Made it to the summit chimney but the rotten snow was pretty sketchy and we were tired of breathing smoke from the forest fires in BC (lots of fires that weekend). Climb was uneventful but we briefly got disoriented in the fog that lingered in a band just at base camp on the toe of the Sulphide. I'll be going back to finish it off but will definitely take wands next time to mark the route from camp up to the ridge.
Beautiful weather made for a great time climbing and sleeping out under the stars. There is still an immense amount of snow at lower elevations. We saw (and felt) a huge chunk of the crystal glacier calve off and fall into sulphide lake. The perfection ran out in the pyramid gully which was filled with sloppy, slushy snow. While a few members of our party tried the south-east ridge but ran out of pro, we watched a two-some grind there way up the gully over the course of two and a half hours. Props, but it looked super sketchy.
Climbed with the Mountaineers.