Mount Shuksan Climber's Log

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jverschuyl - Oct 24, 2003 10:16 am

Route Climbed: Fisher Chimneys Date Climbed: July 20, 1994  Sucess!

We climbed the chimneys in the fog on an unusually warm morning, and then topped out of the clouds on the Upper Curtis Glacier. Hell's Highway was not crevassed at all. Summited at 9 am. Very soft snow conditions kept us from self arresting during an extended slide down Hell's Highway. After that experience we decided to rappel down Winnie's slide. Beautiful, impressive mountain especially the walk across the Upper Curtis.


jasonconnell - Sep 4, 2003 2:37 am

Route Climbed: Sulphide Date Climbed: August 3rd 2003  Sucess!

Great day trip, spent two hours on the summit drinking espresso.


cluck - Aug 4, 2003 4:05 pm

Route Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: 8/4/03  Sucess!

Sulphide in mid Summer and good weather is a fun climbing objective and a real teddy bear.

Route through glacier was obvious, had no/very, very little danger of crevasse fall. Snow was perfect for crampons and never very steep..... max angle 30?

We scrambled up the SE ridge rather than doing the "standard" South central 3rd/4th class gully finish.

The ridge rocked! Solid rock versus Cascades choss, mostly 3rd/4th with a few short low 5th moves. We simul-climbed on a running belay with a few horns slung as pro, belayed one 5.6 move that had a great anchor above.

Downclimbed the gully versus multiple raps.

Can certainly understand how the gully in earlier season conditions.... wet, mixed snow, ice & rock would be a challenge. But, if you are looking for a relaxing climb with less stress and beautiful views, early August on Shuksan certainly fit that description for us.

4 hours to camp at 6000'. 4 hours to summit. 2.5 hours back to camp. 3 hours back to car.


Norman - Jul 24, 2003 1:36 am

Route Climbed: Fisher Chimneys Date Climbed: August, 2001  Sucess!

Great climb, nice mix of moderate rock and glacier. What a beautiful mountain.


kullaberg - Nov 27, 2002 10:26 pm

Route Climbed: fisher chimneys Date Climbed: aug 94  Sucess!

here's a great all-round mountaineering route. route finding challenges, root pulling on cascade choss, glacier travel, steep snow and a summit pyramid scramble to die for.


Zeke - Aug 13, 2002 12:19 pm

Route Climbed: Sulphide Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2002  Sucess!

Approach is a bitch, much agreement on that. My advice is to camp JUST below the National Park boundry. Dont carry all your crap up to the high camp area on the glacier. Its a waste of time AND energy and only saves you about an hour to hour and a half on the climb day. Camp lower, save your energy and you get off to a faster start.

Gully is more 4th class than 3rd. Carry your rope, you may need to rap., esp if theres just two of you. May be faster.

Prepare for amazing Northern Cascade view and dont spare the film.

Joe Hanssen

Joe Hanssen - Jul 29, 2002 8:57 am

Route Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: Summer '95  Sucess!

The approach trail was a pain, but once we reached the Sulphide Glacier, moods changed. This is a fantastic Mt from any angle. The summit block scramble was fun. The view over to Baker is just another bonus. The summit block was busy the day we were there.

aaronami - Jul 7, 2002 10:55 pm

Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: June 22, 2002  Sucess!

Perfect weather. Beautiful steep snow. Advice to live by: Wear sunscreen, lots of it.

The approach/departing bushwack was difficult. Any advice on the best approach route would be welcomed.

To examine the glory of the Creator in such an intimate manner eliminates any notion of conquering the mountain. You merely survive it.

Great route.


geoffcasey - Jun 25, 2002 9:31 am

Route Climbed: Sulfide Glacier Date Climbed: June 8 and 9 2002  Sucess!

We set out around 2:00 am passing two large and one small group enroute to the summit pyramid. Setting the route up was a challenge, as the pyramid was still covered in snow and ice. We used running belays and on the steep, icier sections, and set ancors to belay each other on the upper ice section. Spending a few seconds on the summit we decided to head down as there was about 30 others on their way up,.


sshankle - Nov 12, 2001 10:48 am

Route Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: July 12, 2000  Sucess!

Fun climb, easy in good weather the day we were there.


tbnelson - May 12, 2001 4:35 pm

Route Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: August 28, 2000  Sucess!

Summited via the Sulphide. We made our high camp in a whiteout and were ready to throw the towel in when a 24 hour period of crystal blue skies arrived. Spectacular views of the Sulphide and Crystal Glacier icefalls. As we descended lenticulars were already brewing on the summit pyramid of Shuksan and nearby Mount Baker. We also had great views of Rainier 130 miles away and Mount Garibaldi in British Columbia. Great climb.

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