We were on this mountain for nineteen hours straight...I did pretty well for my first really Alpine experience on the Fisher Chimney route, getting to lead our group across the Upper Curtis Glacier and the Sulphide Glacier, all the way to the summit. On the descent, however, I stupidly went ahead of our group because I was worried about my then-gf down at base canp, and got myself cliffed out and couldn't climb back up to the route, so I had to wait for my team leader to get down low enough and toss me a rope. My worst ever mistake in the mountains!
With Jim Yoder and Marlene Ford.
North face in winter, solo. Hit by storm on descent, down bag got wet. Epic, white out, had to stay in a snow cave for 24 hrs.
Nice day. Great trip.
Had a deep snowshoe spring climb fail several years before I went back and nailed the sucker. http://www.willhiteweb.com/washington_climbing/north_cascades/mount_shuksan_019.htm
Victory, with friends.
Great climb with International Mountain Guides. Perfect weather, good snow conditions, and dry rock.
Great mountain! Beautiful views!
Had beautiful weather. The line we followed up the gully was consistent 4th class with some 3d and a few low class 5 moves. We found a 2d class final section to the top. On descent,we found a 3d class route with plenty of 4th class. Views from anywhere in the vicinity of this peak are hard to believe.
Left high camp at 2:30 in the morning to beat the heat, which made for an incredible sunrise. We took the east ridge when we reached the summit pyramid which was great. Reached the summit at about 6:30 in the morning, and got down off the top before the crowd of everybody else came up. It was a great climb, i really enjoyed it.
Climbed via the Sulphide Glacier route with 200-40 foot
visibility almost the whole day. Thank goodness for GPS points. Summit pyramid gully reminded me of those pictures of winter climbing in Scotland! We climbed the eastern most pinnacle of the four very top summit pinnacles. Judging by other pictures and video it looks like the summit pinnacle we were on is considered the highest, but I could swear the 2 western most pinnacles were at least as high as ours (or higher). No guide book or internet search turned up a distinction. Does anybody out there have know which summit block/pinnacle is truly the highest on Mt. Shuksan?
Forgot to reset watch to PST and ended up on the summit at 5:30 am. Great way to spend the morning though. Sulphide is closed up for now, but the snow gets sloppy as the day progresses.
Fantastic climb with good weather. Interesting route finding. Camped at Lake Ann and summited next day. Got back to tent late and too tired to hike out so spent another night with Nate and Andrew. Vlato and Norman hiked all night to cars to get to jobs.
Perfect summit day - windless, T-shirt weather at the top. Spectacular views! Don't be discouraged by the gnarly appearance of the summit pyramid from afar. It (i.e. the gully) turned out to be a fun class 3/4 scramble. Climbed up and down the pyramid without using a rope which added some excitement.
Fun day with friends, although I didn't bring enough food and I could have eaten a bear by the time we got back to town.
The week before our summit we experienced howling winds, rain and snow all night long. It was near freezing at 9:30 when we left camp with our head between our legs, soaked to the bone. The next week was clear and warm. I felt lucky to stay the night after the climb without any other teams on the mountain. A spectacular climb and the world’s best bathroom view. Thanks Ken, Pam, John, Karl, and Steve.
Route was in great shape. Incredible views of Mt. Baker and the North Cascades. If going on the weekend, I would recommend getting an early start (3:30-4:00am) to beat the crowds to the summit pyramid.
Incredible scenery, fun summit scramble.
Gorgeous, simply gorgeous. Words cannot do it justice.
Group of 12 people incl. 2 guides from AAI. Very interesting school, crevasse rescue was fun. Unfortunately we had bad weather and rain all the time, keeping us from summitting Mt. Shuksan. We camped right below the Sulphide glacier where we did some of our training. 05/28-06/02/2008