Bought plane ticket for time most convienent for work but not conditions. Fellow SP'er relic climbed Shannon Ridge to the clouds and slop to the pass above the toe of the Sulfide glacier. Awoke @ 1:30 am to urinate and sounds of sleet. Forecast for probable clearing incorrect. Descended in worse slop and rain. Retreated to Seattle to dry out and regroup. Consider it a scouting trip. Don't believe weather predictions promised by airline ticket agents 5 months prior to trip
Beautiful day in and out of clouds. Summit gully full of ice. Member of rope team fell into hidden crevasse.
Car to car via Sulphide. Great climb.
Beautiful conditions and what a fun route-dayhiked after dayhiking Baker the day before.
New to SP, just signing all the logs. We had the mt to ourselves on the Sulphide. Beautiful mt.
Even now in August the snow started very low in the valley at about 4,000, and the Sulfide Glacier was in early spring conditions. The gully was full of rotten snow, so we took the SE Rib, which we were told was mostly 5.4. I only had a dozen pieces of pro, and the route I ended up taking on climbers right was more like 5.7-5.8, but the rock was unbelievably solid.
One day ascent, 15.5 hours car to car. Steep ice on the summit pyramid forced us off of the standard route and onto the southeast rib. The rib involved some exposed Class 4 which we chose to rappel in 3 pitches on the descent.
Summited via the SE Rib, a 5.6 climb, but the snow was so deep we walked over the 5.6 part.
Nice trip up with Alpine Ascents... didn't get to Summit though due to the weather and avalanche danger.
After getting to lake Ann I could see clouds coming in the horizon, which to me was the first sign of trouble. As we ascended towards the Fisher Chimneys it became a huge black cloud wall with the sunrise, I knew by now that a storm was coming in. After being belayed up a rock section I could tell that the snow was not as solid as I had hoped. When I got on the snow my crampons got caught on my prussik cord from behind and I nearly tripped down the mountain. It was in that very second that I knew that it would be a bad idea for me to continue, plus I felt like someone should accompany Eric (he got sketched out) for the descend to the car. When we got to the car it was raining like blazes, and I knew that Sebash and Ski were going through a epic adventure...
Day hiked with Eric, Josh and Sebastian. Ended up summitting somehow in a storm with Sebas. Descended via the White Salmon Glacier- big mistake. Nearly killed by rockfall, got lost at the bottom of the glacier, ended up following some mysterious flagging on random trees to the ski resort. 17 hours car to car.
Ascended with Mountain Madness. Beautiful mountain, loved the six days I spent there!
Fisher Chimneys mulitple times, Sulphide Glacier ski ascent/descent, North Face, Price Glacier.
Started at 5:00 am from the saddle. The technical part of the North Face was great. Soon after finishing the North Face the rain started. Camped on the way up, traversed the Pyramid and return via Hourglass and Fishers Chimneys
One of my most satisfying climbs ever! Finally returned to what may be the most scenic mtn in the country after two previous attempts. Having been a Bellinghamster and skiied the Baker ski area, I've always felt a special draw to Shuksan. A great spot camping high above Fisher Chimneys with great friends, great weather, and few people during the middle of the week. I think the Fisher Chimneys are harder to scramble than the pyramid, but others may disagree.
It was late in the season and also went up the wrong gully. I look at this as a scouting trip for next season.
We were on this mountain for nineteen hours straight...I did pretty well for my first really Alpine experience on the Fisher Chimney route, getting to lead our group across the Upper Curtis Glacier and the Sulphide Glacier, all the way to the summit. On the descent, however, I stupidly went ahead of our group because I was worried about my then-gf down at base canp, and got myself cliffed out and couldn't climb back up to the route, so I had to wait for my team leader to get down low enough and toss me a rope. My worst ever mistake in the mountains!
With Jim Yoder and Marlene Ford.
North face in winter, solo. Hit by storm on descent, down bag got wet. Epic, white out, had to stay in a snow cave for 24 hrs.
Nice day. Great trip.