Mount Shuksan Climber's Log

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boisedoc

boisedoc - Aug 2, 2012 5:58 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2012

Sulphide and SE rib  Sucess!

Spectacular setting and views. The glacier travel was straightforward. I thought the southeast rib was pretty exciting and exposed (at least for someone like myself who doesn't rock climb much and also when wearing mountaineering boots). Rappeled down the gully which is almost completely bare of snow right now.

tcingrum

tcingrum - Jul 17, 2012 10:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2011

Sulfide  Sucess!

Made camp above 7000 feet. Sunset was amazing. Still hard snow in gully even in August. Got up and down just ahead of group of 9 climbers.
5 quick rappels and off we go.

ClimberCrabs

ClimberCrabs - Jul 16, 2012 4:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2010

Close but no cigar

New to SP: signing summit logs.
Climbed the Sulphide route in 2010 after getting chased off Silver Star Mt. by smoke from the fires in Stehekin. Made it to the summit chimney but the rotten snow was pretty sketchy and we were tired of breathing smoke from the forest fires in BC (lots of fires that weekend). Climb was uneventful but we briefly got disoriented in the fog that lingered in a band just at base camp on the toe of the Sulphide. I'll be going back to finish it off but will definitely take wands next time to mark the route from camp up to the ridge.

BKW

BKW - Jul 9, 2012 1:56 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2012

Sulphide perfection

Beautiful weather made for a great time climbing and sleeping out under the stars. There is still an immense amount of snow at lower elevations. We saw (and felt) a huge chunk of the crystal glacier calve off and fall into sulphide lake. The perfection ran out in the pyramid gully which was filled with sloppy, slushy snow. While a few members of our party tried the south-east ridge but ran out of pro, we watched a two-some grind there way up the gully over the course of two and a half hours. Props, but it looked super sketchy.
Climbed with the Mountaineers.

e-doc

e-doc - May 30, 2012 2:12 pm Date Climbed: May 29, 2012

Slop

Bought plane ticket for time most convienent for work but not conditions. Fellow SP'er relic climbed Shannon Ridge to the clouds and slop to the pass above the toe of the Sulfide glacier. Awoke @ 1:30 am to urinate and sounds of sleet. Forecast for probable clearing incorrect. Descended in worse slop and rain. Retreated to Seattle to dry out and regroup. Consider it a scouting trip. Don't believe weather predictions promised by airline ticket agents 5 months prior to trip

willbo

willbo - Mar 6, 2012 3:13 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2009

Sulphide Glacier  Sucess!

Beautiful day in and out of clouds. Summit gully full of ice. Member of rope team fell into hidden crevasse.

belowfellow

belowfellow - Feb 10, 2012 5:00 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2011

classic  Sucess!

Car to car via Sulphide. Great climb.

Daria

Daria - Oct 22, 2011 10:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2011

Sulphide Dayhike  Sucess!

Beautiful conditions and what a fun route-dayhiked after dayhiking Baker the day before.

MMclimbhigh

MMclimbhigh - Oct 4, 2011 8:21 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2005

Sulphide  Sucess!

New to SP, just signing all the logs. We had the mt to ourselves on the Sulphide. Beautiful mt.

iquest4it

iquest4it - Aug 11, 2011 1:25 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2011

Mount Shuksan - SE Rib  Sucess!

Even now in August the snow started very low in the valley at about 4,000, and the Sulfide Glacier was in early spring conditions. The gully was full of rotten snow, so we took the SE Rib, which we were told was mostly 5.4. I only had a dozen pieces of pro, and the route I ended up taking on climbers right was more like 5.7-5.8, but the rock was unbelievably solid.

gimpilator

gimpilator - Jul 24, 2011 4:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2011

Sulfide Glacier - Southeast Rib  Sucess!

One day ascent, 15.5 hours car to car. Steep ice on the summit pyramid forced us off of the standard route and onto the southeast rib. The rib involved some exposed Class 4 which we chose to rappel in 3 pitches on the descent.

GrumpyJohn

GrumpyJohn - Jul 21, 2011 9:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2011

SE Rib  Sucess!

Summited via the SE Rib, a 5.6 climb, but the snow was so deep we walked over the 5.6 part.

jaxcharlie

jaxcharlie - Jul 20, 2011 10:21 am Date Climbed: May 7, 2011

Sulfide Glacier

Nice trip up with Alpine Ascents... didn't get to Summit though due to the weather and avalanche danger.

Josh Lewis

Josh Lewis - Jul 11, 2011 9:13 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2011

Fisher Chimneys Attempt

After getting to lake Ann I could see clouds coming in the horizon, which to me was the first sign of trouble. As we ascended towards the Fisher Chimneys it became a huge black cloud wall with the sunrise, I knew by now that a storm was coming in. After being belayed up a rock section I could tell that the snow was not as solid as I had hoped. When I got on the snow my crampons got caught on my prussik cord from behind and I nearly tripped down the mountain. It was in that very second that I knew that it would be a bad idea for me to continue, plus I felt like someone should accompany Eric (he got sketched out) for the descend to the car. When we got to the car it was raining like blazes, and I knew that Sebash and Ski were going through a epic adventure...

SKI

SKI - Jul 9, 2011 7:22 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2011

Fisher Chimneys  Sucess!

Day hiked with Eric, Josh and Sebastian. Ended up summitting somehow in a storm with Sebas. Descended via the White Salmon Glacier- big mistake. Nearly killed by rockfall, got lost at the bottom of the glacier, ended up following some mysterious flagging on random trees to the ski resort. 17 hours car to car.

Inday

Inday - Jan 6, 2011 12:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2010

Summit through Central Gully  Sucess!

Ascended with Mountain Madness. Beautiful mountain, loved the six days I spent there!

ExcitableBoy

ExcitableBoy - Dec 27, 2010 10:53 am

Various routes  Sucess!

Fisher Chimneys mulitple times, Sulphide Glacier ski ascent/descent, North Face, Price Glacier.

Zhenya77

Zhenya77 - Jul 13, 2010 5:00 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2010

North Face Route

Started at 5:00 am from the saddle. The technical part of the North Face was great. Soon after finishing the North Face the rain started. Camped on the way up, traversed the Pyramid and return via Hourglass and Fishers Chimneys

Snowslogger

Snowslogger - Dec 30, 2009 3:26 pm

Finally, and by Fisher Chimneys  Sucess!

One of my most satisfying climbs ever! Finally returned to what may be the most scenic mtn in the country after two previous attempts. Having been a Bellinghamster and skiied the Baker ski area, I've always felt a special draw to Shuksan. A great spot camping high above Fisher Chimneys with great friends, great weather, and few people during the middle of the week. I think the Fisher Chimneys are harder to scramble than the pyramid, but others may disagree.

EverydayExplorer

EverydayExplorer - Dec 1, 2009 11:53 pm Date Climbed: Oct 11, 2009

Failed Fisher Chimneys

It was late in the season and also went up the wrong gully. I look at this as a scouting trip for next season.

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