Gaining the chute to Glacier Notch was a little tricky due to the receding glacier and rockfall. Couloir was dry...just a loose class 2 slog. The class 4 section had some snow on it, but we were able to kick steps in the snow to link the rock sections.
It seemed to take forever (13 hours) for my daughter Sam and I to get to the top from Willow Lake via Scimitar Pass. Very beautiful hike and views. We saw a water fueled landslide in progress on the way up.
A very fun and quick climb. The descent is a little spicy til you hit the top of the L-couli.
Fun climbing and awesome view. Moraine below Mt Gayley was annoying at the end of the day. Done as a really long day outing.
Fantastic route! We had to wait out some weather before starting, and during that time we scrambled up Gayley for an extra summit. Fun climb on great rock and amazing views of the Sierra!!!
Summited via SW chutes (Bishop to Knapsack to Potluck passes on the way in and Thunderbolt pass on the way out). Luckily avoided some weather blowing in from the south - those on the eastern side (Palisade glacier) ended up bearing the brunt of the storms!
Route was fantastic weather was perfect.
Great route, but rough approach through the boulder fields!
W/ Chris on descent from Polemonium
W/ Peter, Rahil & Reza
Awesome climb, bad rockfall. This low snow plus heat and rain is a bad combination this year. Managed without crampons and axe across the North base of Mt. Gayley. Started from Third Lake and wasn't too bad although I wish we would've camped at Sam Mack Meadow.
I will return for another summit bid. Made glacier notch and part way up N Couloir
Via "L couloir" and SW ridge, from Sam Mack Meadow. Some snow remaining on Apex-SW ridge section made things a bit tricky, but manageable. Great conditions on couloir and Palisade Glacier. Incredible summit views. A bit of roped downclimbing on 4th-class section on the descent. All in all an awesome objective with a good, healthy level of mountaineering challenge and 5-star scenery.
A classic route.
Great to be on top after a successful run of the Palisade Traverse with a great team. This followed an earlier summit by two weeks which began with a climb up Swiss Arete and was intended to complete the traverse but weather killed it at the U-Notch.
Swiss Arete......best views of the Sierra!
On our way to Polemonium and the traverse to Thunderbolt (which we aborted at the U-notch due to bad weather).
In 2010 via Swiss Arete
in 2012 in February as a winter ascent with a traverse to Starlight
Nice climb, and we didn't see any other parties on a very nice weather day. My opinion is the route doesn't deserve a Class 4 rating.
With Phil and Paul. L-couloir is getting icy near top. It is not too much fun to backpack in to Elinore Lake. The "4th class" section is perhaps 15-25', and might be totally avoidable by going to left.