Mountain biked with the trailer up the Walker Forestry Road with 175 lbs of gear and supplies for 27 days. Bushwhacked (class 9/10) logging slash, crossed the McGregor River with an inflatable digny. Bushwhacked to the pass NW of Pommel Mtn, up the Kitchi Glacier to high camp (9000') at the base of the summit pyramid. Waited FOUR days for whiteouts to clear, then got perfect weather. Climbed SW ridge and SW face traversing ledges, and rock climbing to the next ledge. Front-point traversed 400m horizontally across the summit knife-edge ice ridge to highest point. Chopped a saddle to sit on the summit. Unbelievable! Most difficult and dangerous climb of my life; harder than Mount Robson. Got clobbered by rocks on the way down; several bruises, but OK.
Did not summit.
This completely human-powered expedition from home in Grande Cache, Alberta, required 25 days. I bicycled with a trailer on back roads and cutlines, then bushwhacked along Saddle Creek, ascended near Dorsal Mountain, then SW up glaciers. After three days of waiting out whiteouts and snow, I tried to get to the SW Ridge by climbing an icefall, but it was too terrifying. I circumnavigated 3/4 of the way around the summit pyramid on the high glacier to Nilah Pass, but it was a cliff. Absolutely spectacular terrain anyway.
Did not summit.
Drove up Walker Forestry Road, crossed the McGregor River with an inflatable kayak, bushwhacked up the SW valley through tangled willows and devil's club, while doing a tight-wire act on logs on top of logs. Three days of waiting out whiteouts and snow depleted my supplies, because I only had enough for ten days. Ice-climbed to 2225m (7300ft), but not the upper icefield nor the SW Ridge.