Route Climbed: Southwest ridge, Couloir from Yankee Boy Date Climbed: '80's, '90's, 00's
Easy to see why this is mountain is on most people's top ten list. It has everything for climbing, from scrambling to the technical-only north face. And it's a nice mountain to look at. And has a nice view on top. And (unless you're doing the north face) you have to go through Yankee Boy flowers to start.
I've done the mountain several times, with Aaron and Ellen, and--good for him!--my brother Chet's only fourteener; and other people I don't remember at the moment.
Something about Sneffels gives it an immediacy and personality staying with you even after you're long off, and doing other things. Right on, I say!
Route Climbed: Ascended SW Ridge, descended Lavender Col Date Climbed: 20 July 2004
Nice climb, especially the last 500 feet. Route-finding crux is definitely before the notch. Traverse into the notch from the east, not the west! Unless you like unusually rotten gullies (almost crushed by a one-ton boulder that slid when I leaned on it) or free-soloing loose 4th/5th class rock, that is.
Only sustained 3rd class climbing is in the gully above the notch. I'd question the existence of any 3rd class on the exposed upper part of the ridge. Especially if you ascend the use trail east of the ridge proper.
Otherwise, this is a classic and highly recommended summit. Awesome views, and no solitude! Shared the summit with ten others and saw perhaps a hundred others in Yankee Boy Basin.
Route Climbed: Southwest Ridge Date Climbed: July 10, 2004
My first 14'er. Some fun scrambling but also much loose crappy rock. Started early to avoid crowds and was rewarded with about 5 minutes of solitude on the summit before a steady stream of hikers began to arrive. Outstanding summit views.
Route Climbed: SW Ridge via Yankee Boy Basin Date Climbed: June 22, 2004
Some good views up there. Lazy route finding resulted in some harder moves but the route was easier than expected. I never noticed much exposure. More worrisome was driving down that shelf road on a "fake" tire after puncturing a real one on the way up. Super big thanks to Big O Tire in Montrose for going above and beyond the call of duty.
Route Climbed: SW Ridge (3rd class route) Date Climbed: June 7, 2004
Excellent Route! Crampons and ice axes absolutley necessary for this trip (probably not in a month or so though). Fun route finding with giddy exposure. Excellent views from the summit. Bring extra food for the marmots at the summit.
jeeped over from telluride, great vacay, nice climb above the lavendar couloir. snowy, threatening weather, so didn't get to enjoy this awesome summit for long. another time.
Route Climbed: Southwest Ridge Date Climbed: July 2000
We hiked up the Dallas Creek valley and up to Blue Lakes, and holy hell, it's beautiful up there. The ridge to the summit was pretty fun. A little scrambling and exposure here and there, but all in all, a very nice climb.
Route Climbed: SW ridge Date Climbed: July 8, 2003
The SW ridge is a wonderful route. Quick, enjoyable, pretty solid rock all describe this route. I think I was up top in 1.5 hours. the views from the top are some of the best in the state. A 360 panorama is hanging in my room! Check out Teakettle while you're up there. Pretty good view of the handle.
Route Climbed: Lavender Col Date Climbed: August 18, 2001
Even though Longs had kicked our ass the week before, Erin and I officially had the 14er bug. We wanted to try out the San Juans, and Uncompahgre Peak seemed like a good place to start. However, when we saw Sneffels from the Montrose area, we were entranced. We change plans and climbed Sneffels instead. Erin was just coming down with a cold, so I'm glad that Sneffels isn't too strenuous of a day. We started lower than most, in order to gain >3000' on the day, and we had a tough time on the scree. We liked the col and the crux above it, though, and had a good time with the summit marmots. And, oh, the views! I must get back to the Sneffels Range this year.
Route Climbed: Standard Route Date Climbed: multiple
I've climbed this several times, always by the standard route. It's not super-exciting, but is a great workout --- and the surrounding Yankee Boy Basin is very scenic. Makes you want to bust out with the theme from Sounds of Music or something...
The first time I did it, I mtn biked from Ouray up to 12k in Yankee boy, then cruised up. The end was sketchy, with a loose scrabbly couloir. The second time up I figured out I'd done the WRONG ending. Be patient: don't take the FIRST chimney you see, go all the way to the saddle and take the scond chimney. Much mellower...
Route Climbed: Yankee Boy Basin Date Climbed: July 03
Camped around 12,000 the night before in Yankee Boy, wish I had had more time to explore that area...
Encountered a mountain lion on our hike up to 12,000 (around 10 at night) which scared the crap out of me and my two friends.
My first fourteener, and it was absolutely beautiful!
I'm hooked!
big_g - Sep 29, 2003 3:45 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2003
Route Climbed: South Ridge
Wow what a blast! Not only was the route fun but I was treated to full frontal nudity by a group of college coeds on a freshman orientation hike/climb. Climbing just got a whole lot more fun. Nobody will ever believe me because of their no cameras rule, but I swear it happened.
Route Climbed: South Slopes/Lavender Col Date Climbed: July 17, 2003
Intended to do the SW ridge but my wife didn't feel well. I left her and did the standard South Slope, WHAT A MISTAKE. I'm not sure were Gerry Roach gets his Classic rating for this route. I agree with Dafreshman, stay with the SW ridge and avoid the choss pile.
Made the summit for sunrise over the San Juans and soon forgot about the scree, what a treat. Fast climb from the restroom in Lower Yankee Boy Basin.
Route Climbed: Yankee Boy Basin Date Climbed: July 11
Man what a treat - this was my 5th climb in the last week. Drove all the way to end of road. From there the summit was only 1.5 hours. I was back in town for breaksfast. What a treat !!!
Saintgrizzly - Aug 11, 2004 12:31 am
Route Climbed: Southwest ridge, Couloir from Yankee Boy Date Climbed: '80's, '90's, 00'sEasy to see why this is mountain is on most people's top ten list. It has everything for climbing, from scrambling to the technical-only north face. And it's a nice mountain to look at. And has a nice view on top. And (unless you're doing the north face) you have to go through Yankee Boy flowers to start.
I've done the mountain several times, with Aaron and Ellen, and--good for him!--my brother Chet's only fourteener; and other people I don't remember at the moment.
Something about Sneffels gives it an immediacy and personality staying with you even after you're long off, and doing other things. Right on, I say!
dspal - Aug 1, 2004 5:59 pm
Route Climbed: Yankee Boy Basin to Lavender Col Date Climbed: August 2002Lots of scree, scrambling, loose rock, and exposure, grueling up and down, fantastic views all around, great, great, hike....
Gareth - Aug 1, 2004 7:37 am
Route Climbed: Lavender Col Date Climbed: July 26, 2004Climbed this one with my sister. We were the first to summit this particular day; had the summit all to ourselves. What a beautiful mountain!
Peter Eliassen - Jul 22, 2004 3:52 pm
Route Climbed: Yankee Boy Basin Date Climbed: June 22, 2004Great hike!
mpbro - Jul 20, 2004 11:34 pm
Route Climbed: Ascended SW Ridge, descended Lavender Col Date Climbed: 20 July 2004Nice climb, especially the last 500 feet. Route-finding crux is definitely before the notch. Traverse into the notch from the east, not the west! Unless you like unusually rotten gullies (almost crushed by a one-ton boulder that slid when I leaned on it) or free-soloing loose 4th/5th class rock, that is.
Only sustained 3rd class climbing is in the gully above the notch. I'd question the existence of any 3rd class on the exposed upper part of the ridge. Especially if you ascend the use trail east of the ridge proper.
Otherwise, this is a classic and highly recommended summit. Awesome views, and no solitude! Shared the summit with ten others and saw perhaps a hundred others in Yankee Boy Basin.
Joseph Bullough - Jul 12, 2004 10:36 am
Route Climbed: Southwest Ridge Date Climbed: July 10, 2004My first 14'er. Some fun scrambling but also much loose crappy rock. Started early to avoid crowds and was rewarded with about 5 minutes of solitude on the summit before a steady stream of hikers began to arrive. Outstanding summit views.
Colonelpyat - Jun 22, 2004 11:36 pm
Route Climbed: SW Ridge via Yankee Boy Basin Date Climbed: June 22, 2004Some good views up there. Lazy route finding resulted in some harder moves but the route was easier than expected. I never noticed much exposure. More worrisome was driving down that shelf road on a "fake" tire after puncturing a real one on the way up. Super big thanks to Big O Tire in Montrose for going above and beyond the call of duty.
dharmadog - Jun 21, 2004 1:10 am
Route Climbed: standard route Date Climbed: September 2002early snow 8".... cleared some on top for great view.
first colorado 14 er
neoday - Jun 11, 2004 4:49 pm
Route Climbed: SW Ridge (3rd class route) Date Climbed: June 7, 2004Excellent Route! Crampons and ice axes absolutley necessary for this trip (probably not in a month or so though). Fun route finding with giddy exposure. Excellent views from the summit. Bring extra food for the marmots at the summit.
DaveC - May 21, 2004 9:27 pm
Route Climbed: yankee boy Date Climbed: aug 02jeeped over from telluride, great vacay, nice climb above the lavendar couloir. snowy, threatening weather, so didn't get to enjoy this awesome summit for long. another time.
sbkelley - May 12, 2004 2:46 pm
Route Climbed: Southwest Ridge Date Climbed: July 2000We hiked up the Dallas Creek valley and up to Blue Lakes, and holy hell, it's beautiful up there. The ridge to the summit was pretty fun. A little scrambling and exposure here and there, but all in all, a very nice climb.
Ryan Kowalski - Apr 19, 2004 5:17 pm
Route Climbed: SW ridge Date Climbed: July 8, 2003The SW ridge is a wonderful route. Quick, enjoyable, pretty solid rock all describe this route. I think I was up top in 1.5 hours. the views from the top are some of the best in the state. A 360 panorama is hanging in my room! Check out Teakettle while you're up there. Pretty good view of the handle.
RyanS - Apr 8, 2004 1:48 pm
Route Climbed: Lavender Col Date Climbed: August 18, 2001Even though Longs had kicked our ass the week before, Erin and I officially had the 14er bug. We wanted to try out the San Juans, and Uncompahgre Peak seemed like a good place to start. However, when we saw Sneffels from the Montrose area, we were entranced. We change plans and climbed Sneffels instead. Erin was just coming down with a cold, so I'm glad that Sneffels isn't too strenuous of a day. We started lower than most, in order to gain >3000' on the day, and we had a tough time on the scree. We liked the col and the crux above it, though, and had a good time with the summit marmots. And, oh, the views! I must get back to the Sneffels Range this year.
bc44caesar - Feb 16, 2004 12:56 pm
Route Climbed: Southwest Ridge Date Climbed: 1 Sep 2003Beautiful clear day - 5.5 hrs round trip - the best route I've ever done in the mountains!! - 1st CO 14er
eckdoerry - Nov 28, 2003 11:52 am
Route Climbed: Standard Route Date Climbed: multipleI've climbed this several times, always by the standard route. It's not super-exciting, but is a great workout --- and the surrounding Yankee Boy Basin is very scenic. Makes you want to bust out with the theme from Sounds of Music or something...
The first time I did it, I mtn biked from Ouray up to 12k in Yankee boy, then cruised up. The end was sketchy, with a loose scrabbly couloir. The second time up I figured out I'd done the WRONG ending. Be patient: don't take the FIRST chimney you see, go all the way to the saddle and take the scond chimney. Much mellower...
jomal - Nov 21, 2003 2:27 am
Route Climbed: Yankee Boy Basin Date Climbed: July 03Camped around 12,000 the night before in Yankee Boy, wish I had had more time to explore that area...
Encountered a mountain lion on our hike up to 12,000 (around 10 at night) which scared the crap out of me and my two friends.
My first fourteener, and it was absolutely beautiful!
I'm hooked!
big_g - Sep 29, 2003 3:45 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2003
Route Climbed: South RidgeWow what a blast! Not only was the route fun but I was treated to full frontal nudity by a group of college coeds on a freshman orientation hike/climb. Climbing just got a whole lot more fun. Nobody will ever believe me because of their no cameras rule, but I swear it happened.
Scott - Aug 21, 2003 12:31 pm
Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: July 3 2001Crowded on a holiday weekend. Very easy peak. Nice view.
miztflip - Jul 17, 2003 5:12 pm
Route Climbed: South Slopes/Lavender Col Date Climbed: July 17, 2003Intended to do the SW ridge but my wife didn't feel well. I left her and did the standard South Slope, WHAT A MISTAKE. I'm not sure were Gerry Roach gets his Classic rating for this route. I agree with Dafreshman, stay with the SW ridge and avoid the choss pile.
Made the summit for sunrise over the San Juans and soon forgot about the scree, what a treat. Fast climb from the restroom in Lower Yankee Boy Basin.
ctruscot - Jul 14, 2003 7:47 pm
Route Climbed: Yankee Boy Basin Date Climbed: July 11Man what a treat - this was my 5th climb in the last week. Drove all the way to end of road. From there the summit was only 1.5 hours. I was back in town for breaksfast. What a treat !!!