Even though Longs had kicked our ass the week before, Erin and I officially had the 14er bug. We wanted to try out the San Juans, and Uncompahgre Peak seemed like a good place to start. However, when we saw Sneffels from the Montrose area, we were entranced. We change plans and climbed Sneffels instead. Erin was just coming down with a cold, so I'm glad that Sneffels isn't too strenuous of a day. We started lower than most, in order to gain >3000' on the day, and we had a tough time on the scree. We liked the col and the crux above it, though, and had a good time with the summit marmots. And, oh, the views! I must get back to the Sneffels Range this year.
Beautiful clear day - 5.5 hrs round trip - the best route I've ever done in the mountains!! - 1st CO 14er
I've climbed this several times, always by the standard route. It's not super-exciting, but is a great workout --- and the surrounding Yankee Boy Basin is very scenic. Makes you want to bust out with the theme from Sounds of Music or something...
The first time I did it, I mtn biked from Ouray up to 12k in Yankee boy, then cruised up. The end was sketchy, with a loose scrabbly couloir. The second time up I figured out I'd done the WRONG ending. Be patient: don't take the FIRST chimney you see, go all the way to the saddle and take the scond chimney. Much mellower...
Camped around 12,000 the night before in Yankee Boy, wish I had had more time to explore that area...
Encountered a mountain lion on our hike up to 12,000 (around 10 at night) which scared the crap out of me and my two friends.
My first fourteener, and it was absolutely beautiful!
Wow what a blast! Not only was the route fun but I was treated to full frontal nudity by a group of college coeds on a freshman orientation hike/climb. Climbing just got a whole lot more fun. Nobody will ever believe me because of their no cameras rule, but I swear it happened.
Crowded on a holiday weekend. Very easy peak. Nice view.
Intended to do the SW ridge but my wife didn't feel well. I left her and did the standard South Slope, WHAT A MISTAKE. I'm not sure were Gerry Roach gets his Classic rating for this route. I agree with Dafreshman, stay with the SW ridge and avoid the choss pile.
Made the summit for sunrise over the San Juans and soon forgot about the scree, what a treat. Fast climb from the restroom in Lower Yankee Boy Basin.
Man what a treat - this was my 5th climb in the last week. Drove all the way to end of road. From there the summit was only 1.5 hours. I was back in town for breaksfast. What a treat !!!
What a phenomenal climb! Route finding problems are somewhat interesting, but not nearly as complicated as many of the other 3rd/4th class routes in Colorado. Some rotten rock is found leading up to the prominent notch in the ridge, but above the notch the rock is suprisingly very solid. Final stretch to the summit finds some exciting exposure on a neat ridgeline that narrows to as little as 12 inches in places. Don't let the class 3 rating scare you off of this route - the standard route is one big long choss pile and no where NEAR as fun (IMHO) as this ridge. DO THIS ROUTE!
climbed sneffels standard route 6-12-03. road dry to 11,400', south basin mostly melted out. east gully in good shape. the pic below shows the east gully (upper part of standard route). this shows the south basin, and this one is a cool view from sneffels toward the telluride area.
by way of crowds - there was no one else in the basin, and no-one but my party of two on the mountain that particular thursday.
Summited in quarter-size snow with my wife and 14 yr old son. Too many 4WDs and other vehicles in Yankee Boy basin though. Otherwise......good fun!
Having turned back the previous day due to threatening thunderclouds (some naïve guy from Holland had kept going without any worries), I got an alpine start to give me a better probability of escaping bad weather, leaving my car in the dark at 5.22. I parked well below the standard 2WD parking lot at 5.5 mi past the turnoff from highway 550, where my map-deciphering placed me a good, solid 4,000 ft below the summit. Hiking through the sunrise, I was amazed by the beauty of Yankee Boy Basin and the enormity of the peaks of the area- I didn't know which mountain was the right one until I was on its lower slopes! Hiking on a weak and sore ankle, I still almost caught up to the 'Swank bro's (one of the guys had done 34 14ers, the other 30),' whom I'd first spotted at the saddle, on the class 3/4 ridge variation taken (fun climbing!). Summited at 9.15, hanging out to talk to the other guys on top and enjoy the beauty of the surroundings, before leaving @ 9.35 (clouds already starting to build). Took the standard scree slog route down, reaching the car @ 12.35.
Climbed with James Harrison in 1995 and Chris Snell in 1996, both times up the South Ridge. The South Ridge is an excellent choice and much more interesting than the standard route up Scree Col. Although the route at times looks impassible, one should never encounter climbing harder than hard 3rd class with proper route finding. Highly recommended.
I attempted the Snake Couloir in September of 1993, but we turned back just below the turn. Lightning was striking nearby peaks causing massive rockfall. We got the heck out of there.
Great Hike! I want to come back for the North lakes route.
I had the pleasure of climbing this mountain this summer after hearing so much about it for a long time. We took the Class 3 route which was incredibly invigorating and spectacular. The view of the Blue Lakes from the Class 3 route was great. Weather conditions were very nice as we were able to take our time and enjoy the incredible view from the summit. One of, if not the best view from a 14er. I would definitely climb this mountain many more times. We descended the standard route. It was fun climbing this mountain with someone who had only climbed one other 14er (Sherman). The look on his face was priceless.
The snow was beautiful and the company even better. Summitted with my husband, mtntrail2 and my son.
Nice fun route with some good scrambling on a beautiful sunny day.Reminded me of the Cuillin mountains over here in Scotland.
Great route. I'm glad we opted for this route instead of the hundreds of people on the other route. Who would drive all the way to the end of the road? Why even climb the peak? As roach says, "this climb is a lark if you choose to drive all the way up into Yankee Boy Basin."
"Finally - a winter ascent of a 14'er!! One of the most beautiful peaks I've ever climbed. Never would have made it without my good friend and primo-partner, Rain Sussman. Also, my first approach using skis instead of snowshoes -- WOW, am I ever sold on 'em!!
We parked at the standard route trailhead, reaching Blue Lakes Pass early and began our traverse around to the north. In a little over an hour into the traverse we’d gained a few hundred feet to cross the man eating scree field immediately below the cliff band and dropped several hundred feet to cross a large scree bowl to come within sight of the couloir. It turned out to be cool and inviting, narrow tall walled, steep, mostly good footing, relatively good rock and gradually curving up out of sight. After an hour or so on, we were at the DogLeg looking down a thousand feet of ice into Blaine basin. Looking up to 500 feet of ice in the couloir above and an inviting ledge system on the right shoulder of the couloir above. We followed the ledge system to the ridge, joining the standard route and on 300 feet to the summit. Later returning via the standard route.
The traverse is mostly 2nd class and the couloirs are mostly 3rd class with a few moves of 4th class. The upper couloir especially has several sections of loose rock wall. We were continually aware not to pull a refrigerator size rock down on ourselves-literally!! The trip from car to summit is probably about 4 to 5 hours. We took a couple hours longer as we were enjoying the sights and had not actually planned to summit. The weather was excellent and everything seemed to invite us on.
More info in trip report. I do not know of anyone else trying this route and as we had a wonderful time would love to hear you experiences.