George Sinclair led me up this peak during a 3 day trip that included Mt. Clark. After climbing Clark we moved our camp below Starr King. This late in the season we were lucky to find a small creek close to the route that we could camp next to.
My first multi-pitch in the Sierra.
Climbed SE Saddle with Jessie Liu. Pretty runout. The crux moves are a long way away from any crack systems. Took four raps to get down with a 60m rope. Augmented one of the rap stations with some new webbing and biners. First entry in the summit log since late october! Some entries date back to the 1980s. Cool!
RJ gives it 5.0, I would rate the 1st pitch about 5.5, a bit runout but fun.
SE Saddle from Mono Meadow with Seth. First summit register entry of 2007! On rappel we found one of the fixed pitons to be very loose, so we traversed to climbers right to an alternate rappel station. Afterwards we camped on the middle summit enjoying perfect summer-like weather. 2X June 10, 2012, BAMM Summit Bivy!
Led the run-out first pitch on a Starr King run with a buddy and his girl EARLY spring '05
Myself, wife and friends, Mark & Gail Schelnker climbed the 5.4 (?) route. Lovely climb, nice weather, but we had a sort of sketchy descent.
Led by Bob Suzuki and Jim Ramaker. To Mt. Clark the next day.
We climbed as two parties of 2; I climbed with Juan Carlos Marvizon and ming21 climbed with Dave Van Selow. I found the lower section of the class 3+ friction gully to have some spicy moves since I was wearing regular tennis shoes with non-sticky rubber soles. The SE Saddle climb itself was straightforward; we descended the same class 3+ friction gully; I wore my climbing shoes for this descent. All in all, great company on a great setting.
What Rob said below. Cool scramble up to the saddle, and a fun climb to the summit from there too. I'll have to go back to climb the northeast side some time.
Climbed with Matthew Holliman. Started from Happy Isles trailhead in Yosemite Valley. Got soaked by the spray from Vernal Falls on the way up. Streams were running down the trail on the way up from Nevada Falls. Approach to the base of the 3rd class friction took us about 4 hours, with some , ah, wonderful bushwhacking (according to NG Topo it was about 7 miles / 4000'). No significant snow remained on the trail.
The 750' friction climb to the saddle seemed like class 3+; I decided to get my rock shoes out for this, but Matthew did it in approach shoes. There was some snow at the base of the slabs, but it was not a problem.
Matthew led the route from the saddle in two pitches with a 50m rope as per the route page. Rapped down three times; replaced and / or augmented the slings we found. The last rap from the pitons kind of spooked me, since it traversed right, with the potential for some pendulum action over steeper ground. Kicking myself - should have brought a 60m rope for this.
The weather was pretty much perfect, with excellent views. Snow remained on the north-facing slopes. We descended the class 2 route over the middle dome.
btw Misha & Etsuko's entries in the summit log were the most recent.
Etsuko and I climbed this awesome peak from Mono Meadows on a beautiful fall day. It was weird going through the pine tree and manzanita forest completely devastated by the recent fire. Some of the trees were still smoking. We hiked up to the saddle on the right side of the "central peak", went over the "central peak" to the SE saddle and since we had no route beta with us, just climbed what looked doable on the SE face. It felt like 5.5-5.6 in places, with a couple of runouts on the 2nd pitch.
This was an epic one day trip with Joe Hanssen. 25 hours on the move door to door from the SF Bay. I had some altitude issues with going up all in one day, but it was well worth the trip! The climb was easy but a nice warm up to the summer.
Fun solo with an overnight bivy at the base of the gully, see trip report for details.
Started at 5:15a from Curry Village, up the JMT to Nevada Falls, then cross-country over snow to the north side of the summit. Used crampons and ski poles to ascend the 40 degree snow-covered slope, arriving at 10:30a. Changed to rock shoes to descend to the Southeast Saddle. Headed west towards Illilouette Creek, then climbed to Glacier Point, arriving at 3:15p. I then went down the snow-filled chute just west of Glacier Point to take the quick descent back to the Valley. Used crampons for about half the descent, before I could boulder-hop and slide down the loose slopes to Curry Village. Back to the car at 5:45p. Long day, but great fun! Trip Report
Great solo day hike from mono meadows
Our first-ever multipitch route. We camped at the large saddle between the south and central summits--great spot, if a bit hard to reach with a heavy pack. Although the climbing was easy, the rappels turned into quite an extravaganza. Thanks to a gutsy downlead by Kim from an intermediate anchor, we were able to descend the route in "2.5" rappels with a 60-meter rope. We met the (infamous?) Yosemite climbing ranger, Mark Fincher, on the hike out, and felt less bad about our near-epic when he called the rappel "terrifying". Very fun climb!
I think "5.0" is a bit of a sandbag. The toughest moves on the first pitch seemed 5.4ish, and had some decent runouts. However, most of the rest of the route is probably class 4.
The oldest register book dates from 1985! We saw signatures from Greg Daggett ("Greg D") and Bob Burd ("snwburd").
Monty and I took my brother Tom out for his first technical climb ever - he'd never even used a harness. It was a gas, even if it didn't seem like Monty and I knew what the hell we were doing (novices ourselves). It took us all day primarily because we spent so many hours messing with the rope.
The second time I climbed with Michael on our way to Mt. Clark, and we did it more efficiently, cleaner, and faster. But it wasn't as much fun as the first time! :)