This was a lot more enjoyable than I was looking forward to. I thought it was going to be an endless dirty slog. It is very long, but the rock formations and scenery keep you moving. There is a nice ledge at the top of the couloir that would fit 3-4 tents. I want to stay there next time.
Slog route. But I made my peak.
Went up with some buddys from SAR. It was an awesome trip!
First time climbed the Cascadian Couloir, fine going up, kind of a long pain in the neck going down. Really fun scrambling near the top. The second time I climbed the West Ridge with my friend Andy in August 2007, with a great camping spot near Ingalls Lake. A long and complicated but fun route.
Climbed the West Ridge. Incredible day on the mountain. 10 hrs to get up it and 1 1/2 to get down (didn't feel like a bivy with cold beer waiting at camp). My knees won't let me forget about that anytime soon. Free-solo'd the last pitch which proved very exiting!
I have attempted Stuart twice in April and both times been blown off by wind and snow - Sherpa Glacier and Ice Cliff Glacier routes. Stil, I love this mountain for its ruggedness and beauty. If only she would let me get on top!
Fellow SP member "Gimpilator" and I did this as a one-day trek. 8000' total elevation gain and 13.25 hours (including one hour at the summit). Perfect weather conditions, and the awesome view from the summit made the entire climb worth it. One of my all-time favorite climbs.
A wonderful 2 day climb with good weather and a great climbing partner. Climbed with Marnel on her first trip up a mountain. Well done Marnel! 5 1/2 hours creek to summit, 5 hour slide down the scree, then the trudge back over Longs pass. Long day but a great experience.
Just under 14 hours from car to car, with one hour on the summit. Redwic and I came over Longs Pass and went up and down the Cascadian Couloir. A wonderful day!
Went up Cascadian Couloir, all alone on the mountain except one guy at the base of the snowfield. I said hello, he just kept on going. What the heck? http://www.willhiteweb.com/mountain_climbing/mount_stuart/climbing_046.htm
Mount Stuart is not screwing around. This is a long and demanding climb that will test your patience and endurance. The snowfield below the false summit could be avoided except for one small part.
Camped at Ingalls Pass, which turned out to be a bit far from the West Ridge (we aren't the earliest risers or fastest hikers), especially since we did the full West Ridge instead of the second gully. Got to the summit at 6. Bivied in the trees at 7000 ft in the Cascadian Couloir.
Still a lot of snow on approach and on route. Climbed with Denny - some 5.6 variations. Great day, great weather, horrible descent via the cascadian. Ascent gully to summit in 7 hours.
Camped at Longs Pass, left at 5 in the morning for a hard day. Finally reached the summit at about 1:30 to nice skies and good weather, and about an hour into the descent a thunderstorm rolled in really quick. I was at the top of the couloir when the false summit was struck by lightning, and I booked it down to Ingalls Creek as fast as I could. From there I waited out the thunderstorm for about 2 hours until returning to my camp at Longs pass. It was a hard day, the snow was soft which was slow going. The final summit ridge had some incredible views, but be careful to stay away from the old cornices and away from the north side as much as possible... its a long way down there. I would recommend bringing someone else along because it is really steep and rocky, and it would have been nice to have a little extra security.
Bill Ayers and I climbed this route from a camp at 5,200 ft. The conditions on the route were perfect. We did a few pitches on steep ice through the ice cliff, then negotiated some crevasses and the bergschrund, and simul-climbed the couloir to the ridge. We slogged up the ridge in soft snow to the summit and then descended the Sherpa Glacier. The snow on the descent was soft, but we made quick progress downclimbing. Very interesting route and descent. Terrible approach.
This was my first attempt at mountainiering. We made it to the false summit via the Cascadian before I ran out of talent, time and courage. I have now overcome my fear of heights and the true summit is only a trailhead access away.
My wife and I climbed the complete North ridge and the gendarme. Doing the Complete ridge is much longer than going up the gully, but it has some of the best climbing. We climbed the Gendarme as well, well worth it. We did have a mini epic though, as we descended the Ulrich coulior in the dark. Don't do this! The descent ended up taking as much time as the climb.
We waited a bit too long to climb this one. The snow level was around 8,000 feet. The summit ridge was caked in ice and there wasn't enough snow to fill in the cracks. We turned back about five steps after the false summit. The crappy conditions on the ridge were offset by the gold larches and other fall colors. The weather was perfect.
Climbed complete N ridge with James L. Approach Teannaway, alti read 6660 at toe. Bivy at notch, did gendarme and down Cascadian. Death march to car. Used Guide 10's whole way, nice.
3 hard days, bivied in snow cave at base of route. Deep unconsolidated snow on entire North approach and 1/2 way up route, trouble getting across schrunds and crevasses. Huge overhanging cornice at top of couloir. Did 5.7 30' rock on right, dry tool, very gripped. Descend Sherpa.