Mount Stuart Climber's Log

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bedellympian - Sep 15, 2013 1:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2013

CNR  Sucess!

Complete North Ridge w/ Gendarme (V 5.9 28 pitches). Cloud cover resulting in low vis and some rain and snow on route led to unplanned bivy on ledge above Gendarme. A great route, long with a mix of wandery low 5th and sustained 5.8/9 climbing.


Mooner - Sep 1, 2013 11:29 am

Up I Go

2016-08-14 via Complete North Ridge with Gendarme. Soloed entire upper ridge except Gendarme pitches with Sam
08/27/13 via Complete North Ridge with Gendarme bypass because to started raining just before getting to it.


Dundeel - Jul 22, 2013 10:29 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2013

Cascadian  Sucess!

Two night camp on Ingalls Creek. Wonderful mountain with good weather.


OwenT - Apr 2, 2013 1:09 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2012

Big Mountain  Sucess!

My first of hopefully many major Cascade peaks.

kylefrowe - Jan 3, 2013 12:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2010

Success  Sucess!

Awesome views steep scree and snow


juneauhiker - Nov 9, 2012 11:16 am

Cascadian  Sucess!

A great hike in a beautiful place.


tcingrum - Sep 19, 2012 10:56 pm

Stuart  Sucess!

Cascadian route. Lots of loose rock and dirt.


Diggler - Sep 16, 2012 7:47 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012

complete N ridge- finally!!!  Sucess!

WHAT a route!! When no opportunities opened up with friends, finally found a willing & able partner.

Camped near Ingalls Lake by meadows (would have just gone for the climb as a day climb in retrospect- additional hike back to camp after ascent SUCKED!), which provided stunning views of SW face of Stuart (& far too many obnoxious nocturnal goats).

Started from camp @ 5.20. Still a ways to go before reaching start of route (including a few sketchy snowfield crossings). Off & climbing finally @ 10.05. Belayed first 4 or so pitches of lower ridge before simul'ing to notch. P2 hardest of lower buttress. Simul'ed to Great Gendarme (seems like a misnomer- instead of climbing around the thing, you go straight up it). Successful roshambo meant I got the lead- phenomenal pitch (best of climb, in my opinion)!!! Linked strenuous lieback w/ "off-width" (actually a fist crack for normal-sized folks), then climbed ~50' above that to a 'bivy'/belay ledge. Dropped my brand new camera from notch above the gendarme, which SUCKED :( Made haste after that, as time growing nigh(t)- finally summited @ 20.05. LONG & fatigueing descent down Cascadian Couloir ensued (shitty-non-existent trails to Stuart Pass, then back to camp added to frustrations).

Finally back @ camp @ 3.06- WHAT a day, mountain, climb!!! Thanks, Mark!


droot - Sep 16, 2012 6:11 am Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012

Cascadian  Sucess!

Climbed via the Cascadian Couloir. Nothing major until the summit ridge is reached, and then some fun class 3 to the summit.
Fires were burning everywhere at the time, and we could see lots of smoke from the summit.

Came down the same way, making our way quickly digging into the soft sand.


kevinsa - Sep 15, 2012 9:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009

Mt. Stuart  Sucess!

Got off route a little bit, but managed to salvage it. Would like to come back when there are a few less clouds.


JoelSkok - Sep 13, 2012 9:51 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 1977

West Ridge route  Sucess!

Loved the experience with my old Boy Scout leader Jack Kinney, Eddie Bolton and his girlfriend. Route finding was an issue but we at last prevailed. Some T-storms in the two days we were on the mountain but we found overhangs to stave off the hard rains. Pace was easy for me, didn't feel challenged.

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Aug 19, 2012 3:06 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012

Full North Ridge  Sucess!

Car to Car full north ridge with the gendarme. Out from Stuart Lake TH.


ClimberCrabs - Jul 18, 2012 3:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2011

Cascadian Couloir in the heat  Sucess!

Climbed Stuart via the Cascadian Couloir on a very hot weekend. Route was easy enough until we hit the snowfield below the false summit which was snowier than usual and quite slick. Made it up and over to the actual summit and enjoyed a nice nap. Navigating down the snowfield was dicey and one member of our party slipped but was able to arrest before the rocks. Had an awesome campsite in the meadow, probably the best part of the whole trip!


sgiles - Apr 12, 2012 12:58 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2010

Upper North Ridge  Sucess!

Classic climb, amazing exposure and views. We came in from the Ingalls Lake trailhead and went up and over goat pass. bivyed above the glacier and started climbing the next day. A storm rolled in while we were climbing and we ended up bivying on a ledge above the gendarme for 2 nights waiting for it to pass. When it passes, it was gorgeous. Views to the Olympic mountains and a great story


belowfellow - Feb 10, 2012 4:56 pm Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2011

CC  Sucess!

early season, via CC. fun day.

Josh Houser

Josh Houser - Oct 2, 2011 12:29 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2011

A decent hike  Sucess!

This was a decent hike although the CC would have been nicer if there was snow in it. Oh well, at least had some nice views before the clouds came in when we summited.


relic - Sep 18, 2011 11:06 am

Years ago  Sucess!

Catching up on logs I should've signed years ago. This mountain is an icon, visible from most places in the North Cascades. Great, solid rock on most routes.


Vinny - Sep 16, 2011 1:06 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2011

Rescue support  Sucess!

Ran up CC in the night with Jonah and Sandeep as rescue support for the Helo. 5 and a bit hours from car to summit then across to west ridge to locate our friend/subject. Good outcome. Took longer to wander down but the views were better with sunlight. While descending Sandeep learned the meaning of lolly-gagging and how to do so ; )


iquest4it - Aug 5, 2011 12:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2011

Cascadian Couloir  Sucess!

Scree climb and Class 3 scramble to steep snow chutes on left for last 1,500 ft to false summit. Snow was soft but consolidated underneath. Ridge to summit mostly snow free. Too the "Variation #1" chute down - big mistake - water fall for last 1,500 ft. with nasty snow bridge at bottom. Fun climb, except for the part back up to Long's Pass.


BurkeM - Aug 1, 2011 1:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011

Cascadian Couloir  Sucess!

Pretty uneventful. Cairns between false summit and summit can be a bit misleading but stay high on the ridge and youll be good. Left the car at 5:30 and was back at a little after 6:00 and thats including farting around quite a bit. Getting back up to Long's Pass was the hardest part thanks to the bog and then snow thats lingering.

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