Car to Car via the Cascade Couloir in a day. The couloir itself was a lot easier than I thought. There wasn't nearly as much loose rock and scree as I was expecting, although a helmet would be recommended still. Still snow above 8,500' to the false summit, but didn't need to go on any snow from the false summit to the true summit. Went too far east on our descent and ended up in the wrong gully (followed a climber's trail down, beware!) Could have been done in hiking/trail running shoes with some microspikes with an ice axe. Great day!
Left car at ~3:30 AM, back to car at ~8:00 PM. Fought off a mtn. goat with my ice ax. Took left scramble around false summit and then up. Came back down standard route off false summit. Glissaded down from false summit. River running high.
One Day Climb. Camped at the trailhead and Started at 7am. Hiked up and over and finished the hike at 6pm. Very tough hike about 13 miles RT by my GPS.
After crossing Ingalls Cre
ek on the way up we went Right (SE) along the Ingalls Creek Trail for about .25 miles to a cairn leading up the colour. The brush was a bit rough at first but it worked. On the way down we bypassed that by finding some other route. Couldn't explain it if I tried. It fizzled out and we walked straight through the brush downhill to the trail. Ending up just about 100 feet from the intersection of the trail going back. I don't think I would pick to try the more direct route up even if I could find it. It was a bit steep and the slopes were vegetated.
Complete North Ridge w/ Gendarme (V 5.9 28 pitches). Cloud cover resulting in low vis and some rain and snow on route led to unplanned bivy on ledge above Gendarme. A great route, long with a mix of wandery low 5th and sustained 5.8/9 climbing.
2016-08-14 via Complete North Ridge with Gendarme. Soloed entire upper ridge except Gendarme pitches with Sam
08/27/13 via Complete North Ridge with Gendarme bypass because to started raining just before getting to it.
Two night camp on Ingalls Creek. Wonderful mountain with good weather.
My first of hopefully many major Cascade peaks.
Awesome views steep scree and snow
A great hike in a beautiful place.
Cascadian route. Lots of loose rock and dirt.
WHAT a route!! When no opportunities opened up with friends, finally found a willing & able partner.
Camped near Ingalls Lake by meadows (would have just gone for the climb as a day climb in retrospect- additional hike back to camp after ascent SUCKED!), which provided stunning views of SW face of Stuart (& far too many obnoxious nocturnal goats).
Started from camp @ 5.20. Still a ways to go before reaching start of route (including a few sketchy snowfield crossings). Off & climbing finally @ 10.05. Belayed first 4 or so pitches of lower ridge before simul'ing to notch. P2 hardest of lower buttress. Simul'ed to Great Gendarme (seems like a misnomer- instead of climbing around the thing, you go straight up it). Successful roshambo meant I got the lead- phenomenal pitch (best of climb, in my opinion)!!! Linked strenuous lieback w/ "off-width" (actually a fist crack for normal-sized folks), then climbed ~50' above that to a 'bivy'/belay ledge. Dropped my brand new camera from notch above the gendarme, which SUCKED :( Made haste after that, as time growing nigh(t)- finally summited @ 20.05. LONG & fatigueing descent down Cascadian Couloir ensued (shitty-non-existent trails to Stuart Pass, then back to camp added to frustrations).
Finally back @ camp @ 3.06- WHAT a day, mountain, climb!!! Thanks, Mark!
Climbed via the Cascadian Couloir. Nothing major until the summit ridge is reached, and then some fun class 3 to the summit.
Fires were burning everywhere at the time, and we could see lots of smoke from the summit.
Came down the same way, making our way quickly digging into the soft sand.
Got off route a little bit, but managed to salvage it. Would like to come back when there are a few less clouds.
Loved the experience with my old Boy Scout leader Jack Kinney, Eddie Bolton and his girlfriend. Route finding was an issue but we at last prevailed. Some T-storms in the two days we were on the mountain but we found overhangs to stave off the hard rains. Pace was easy for me, didn't feel challenged.
Car to Car full north ridge with the gendarme. Out from Stuart Lake TH.
Climbed Stuart via the Cascadian Couloir on a very hot weekend. Route was easy enough until we hit the snowfield below the false summit which was snowier than usual and quite slick. Made it up and over to the actual summit and enjoyed a nice nap. Navigating down the snowfield was dicey and one member of our party slipped but was able to arrest before the rocks. Had an awesome campsite in the meadow, probably the best part of the whole trip!
Classic climb, amazing exposure and views. We came in from the Ingalls Lake trailhead and went up and over goat pass. bivyed above the glacier and started climbing the next day. A storm rolled in while we were climbing and we ended up bivying on a ledge above the gendarme for 2 nights waiting for it to pass. When it passes, it was gorgeous. Views to the Olympic mountains and a great story
early season, via CC. fun day.
This was a decent hike although the CC would have been nicer if there was snow in it. Oh well, at least had some nice views before the clouds came in when we summited.
Catching up on logs I should've signed years ago. This mountain is an icon, visible from most places in the North Cascades. Great, solid rock on most routes.