Camped in meadow below couloir, came in via Longs Pass. Awesome weather and views!
Long day round trip from ingalls lake. Up and over goat pass, across stuart glacier, up the ridge to the summit and down cascadian couloir and a long hike back to the packs. Every minute was worth it though. We had an excellent trip. The north ridge is absolutely spectacular. Great positions and great simulclimbing.
Climbed the upper North Ridge with a party of four. Great climbing, but skipped the gendarme due to time. Still got back late, so we felt good about it.
Climbed Couloir in one day. Left Trail head at 5:30 a.m., got back to car at 8 P.M. Fun climb, almost clear of snow until the upper snowfield. scramble over to summit was awsome. We had perfect weather without any wind at all on the summit. We could see clouds spilling over the cascade crest between Lemah, Chimney rock and Mt. Daniel.
Climbed NR in late Sept, WR in May with a good bit of snow climbing on the route. Nice that way. NR is a super-classic, and the knife-edge leads directly to the start of the crack on the Gendarme, which is nice. Great mountain.
Wonderful weekend climb and excellent workout. Switched out crampons between bouldering and ice travel a couple times. 360* view of other Cascade bretheren. 6000' Elevation gain.
Other than not being sure whether we were headed up the cascadian to begin with, it was pretty straight forward. We ended up going about 3/4 of the way up Ulrich's before traversing over to the cascadion colour. The snow field just below the false summit had receded alot by August so we were able to skirt it, not needing to use crampons.
A brutally hot day. Take lots of water. You'll need it.
The North Ridge's classic reputation is fairly earned. The position and rock make this is one of the best climbs I have done.
We snowshoed into Stuart Lake then climbed up the main Gully to Stuart Glacier. Jay and Mark were trying to climb the North Ridge so I went off to climb Sherpa Glacier by myself. We waited out a storm in a snow cave and I started out on the 4th day, I got to the top of Sherpa Glacier and stayed in a small snow cave. The next morning the Mountain was socked in and I was out of matches, I retreated from the top of the Glacier. On the way back down the Gully above Stuart lake we were in an avalanche, we all survived. Later that year Mark was killed while climbing Ice Cliff Glacier by a Rock Slide. Jay went on to climb the North Ridge in Winter a few years later.
We hiked in early from the parking lot to Mountianeer Creek Basin, we climbed the North Ridge and were on top by nightfall, we slept (sort of) on the ledges below the summit and descended via Sherpa Glacier. The Glissade below the Crevasse was Great. Russ and Larry got a little wet on the descent due to bad route finding.
We camped in Mountianeer Creek Basin, we all climbed the Sherpa Glacier Route, Gerd The Wonder Dog only got to the False Summit, he was eyeballed by a Eagle. Gerd stole some cheese from Peter during a rest stop on the way out.
This was my first time on the mountain, we hiked in the night before to Stuart Lake slept there then climbed up a rock slide and dropped into Mountaineer Creek Basin. We got to the top of Sherpa Glacier but it got late and we decided against a night on the Mountain.
GREAT climb! Two day trip with a party of three climbers. Afternoon hike into bas camp in the valley just below the couloir. Deer fearlessly walked through our camp and a hot meal prepped us for an 6:15AM departure.
Climbing up the entrance to the couloir was easy once we identified the forest trail. Once out of the skree it was an enjoyable scramble up to the false summit. We stayed left of the snowfield and crossed above with a short belay for safety. Spectacular views over the false summit to the true summit. The ridge between the two was clear of snow and we scrambled across, just below the ridgeline. Final pitch up to the summit overlooked Stuart Lake for a beautiful view. The local mountain goat approached in an attempt to bum some trail mix, but settled for some tasty lichen instead.
The return trip was brutal. Down to base camp for a quick pack -up and a long painful trudge back to the cars. Fianl arrival at 10:30PM and a drive back to Seattle! I would recommend a second night or an earlier departure on summit day.
GREAT CLIMB. Amazing Views! Very few climbers! ENJOY!
2 days, camped in Ingalls Creek basin. 2nd time on-top. Snow patches near the top of the Couloir.
Tried to do a one day car to car. Started at the Stuart Lake trail head (after leaving a car at Long's Pass trail head ) at 3:00 am, reached summit at 8:30 pm. Spent the night in the open at about 8,000 feet. It was a 32 hours car to car.
Nice route. Did it over a 3-day weekend (camp to camp below Ingalls Lake). Started from camp at 1:30 am. Napped under space blanked before Stuart Glacier for an hour. Stuart Glacier crossing was kinda sketchy with the lightweight approach shoes and light crampons. Got to notch at 7am. Topped out at 1:30pm. Knife-edge traverse was the best part of the climb (pitch 1 of Gendarme was also very good; pitch 2 OW was harder). Only one other party on route. Descent down CC took a long time and sucked (hard on the knees)! Were back in tent at 7pm. Hiked out Sunday morning.
PS Running water available from snowfield just below summit on descent. No other running water was encountered (snow patches just below bivy sites at the notch though).
PPS Putting things in perspective: here. Impressive!!!
Attempted complete NR, but completed only the upper ridge. An excellent alpine ridge climb. The hand traverse sections are really spectacular. Trip Report Here
Awesome route. Not much ice...