Mount Stuart Climber's Log

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lukic

lukic - Jul 28, 2007 12:51 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2007

Cascadian Couloir  Sucess!

I had a spare day and no partner, so I went up this route to scout it out for descents. One of the most beautiful views ever, but doing a one day push made for a tiring day.

cascadeclimber1978

cascadeclimber1978 - Jun 12, 2007 2:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2006

North Ridge  Sucess!

Completed the North ridge on our second trip here. We were turned back by weather on the first. Well worth the second trip!!

thundercloud

thundercloud - Mar 13, 2007 7:51 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006

West Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed with P and did a pretty good job making our way to the sandy ledges below the final summit pitches. Had gumby moment when rope jammed in blocky terrain just shy of final pitch. Futzed around and ate time in attempts to free rope before finally cruising to the top. Descended via Ulrich's Couloir, which was a bit of a retarded mistake, but I'd climbed this route a few years before and knew the way back. Arrived in the dark back at Ingalls Creek (at the base of the mountain), filled water, and bivyed there for the night before making the 3 mile trek back to our real camp below Ingalls Pass. Super climb, and long day. One or two gumby moments can really affect your schedule, so good to prepare. Good learning experience!

Hotfeet

Hotfeet - Feb 25, 2007 7:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006

Cascadian Couloir  Sucess!

A very enjoyable climb. Very peaceful. Hardly anyone else around. I really enjoyed the solitude.

cluck

cluck - Sep 13, 2006 7:18 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006

West Ridge  Sucess!

Great day on the West Ridge. Routefinding required some careful thought but was not overly difficult. We made the climb up to Long John's Tower a bit harder on ourselves by taking a central route along a left-leaning corner. Further right would have been easier, but it was fun to break out the rope & get in a little more 5th class climbing.

Overall, the climbing was easier than expected. With some solid route-research, and reasonable efficiency on the upper pitches, most parties should have no problem getting off before nightfall.

osatrik

osatrik - Sep 1, 2006 5:42 am Date Climbed: May 28, 1994

Cascadian Couloir - 1994  Sucess!

A memorable trip, but the summit was not! The climb was in fog and we couldn't see a thing from the top.

12 of us came across Longs Pass the night before, and 6 went out after the rain and fog discouraged them, but the rest of us made it to the top without incident. On the descent we had one in the party start sliding down the steep snowfield, but was able to arrest. Passed a tent high on the ridge above the couloir -- and ended up giving the two guys in it some matches as they had none!

mandrake

mandrake - Aug 16, 2006 9:40 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006

Cascadian Couloir  Sucess!

Perfect campsite at the base of the route up the col. Snow slope not that melted up -- cramponed up about half-way and transferred into the moat; crux of the route. Easy & fun bouldering from the ridge below the false summit over to the true summit.

Andy Dewey

Andy Dewey - Aug 10, 2006 2:57 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2006

Route Climbed: Cascadian Couloir  Sucess!

Camped in meadow below couloir, came in via Longs Pass. Awesome weather and views!

Seth Maciejowski

Seth Maciejowski - Jul 31, 2006 2:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2006

North Ridge

Long day round trip from ingalls lake. Up and over goat pass, across stuart glacier, up the ridge to the summit and down cascadian couloir and a long hike back to the packs. Every minute was worth it though. We had an excellent trip. The north ridge is absolutely spectacular. Great positions and great simulclimbing.

b.

b. - Jul 18, 2006 3:26 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006

Upper N Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed the upper North Ridge with a party of four. Great climbing, but skipped the gendarme due to time. Still got back late, so we felt good about it.

supermarmot

supermarmot - Jul 9, 2006 6:32 am Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2006

Climbed with agreenstreet  Sucess!

see below:)

agreenstreet

agreenstreet - Jun 24, 2006 7:17 am Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2006

Route Climbed: Cascadian Couloir 6-21-2006  Sucess!

Climbed Couloir in one day. Left Trail head at 5:30 a.m., got back to car at 8 P.M. Fun climb, almost clear of snow until the upper snowfield. scramble over to summit was awsome. We had perfect weather without any wind at all on the summit. We could see clouds spilling over the cascade crest between Lemah, Chimney rock and Mt. Daniel.

TM

TM - Apr 10, 2006 6:03 am

n ridge, w ridge  Sucess!

Climbed NR in late Sept, WR in May with a good bit of snow climbing on the route. Nice that way. NR is a super-classic, and the knife-edge leads directly to the start of the crack on the Gendarme, which is nice. Great mountain.

ericd

ericd - Mar 24, 2006 8:24 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2005

Up: Cascade Coulier/Down: Urlich  Sucess!

Wonderful weekend climb and excellent workout. Switched out crampons between bouldering and ice travel a couple times. 360* view of other Cascade bretheren. 6000' Elevation gain.

rialtosol

rialtosol - Feb 27, 2006 3:47 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2004

Route Climbed:Ulrichs-Cascadian  Sucess!

Other than not being sure whether we were headed up the cascadian to begin with, it was pretty straight forward. We ended up going about 3/4 of the way up Ulrich's before traversing over to the cascadion colour. The snow field just below the false summit had receded alot by August so we were able to skirt it, not needing to use crampons.

Snidely Whiplash

Snidely Whiplash - Feb 23, 2006 4:17 pm Date Climbed: Jun 14, 1987

Route Climbed: Cascadian Couloir  Sucess!

A brutally hot day. Take lots of water. You'll need it.

setrent - Dec 26, 2005 10:15 pm

Route Climbed: Cascadian Couloir, North Ridge Gendarm Variation Date Climbed: July, 1997/29 July, 2004  Sucess!

The North Ridge's classic reputation is fairly earned. The position and rock make this is one of the best climbs I have done.

younkin

younkin - Nov 5, 2005 4:20 am

Route Climbed: Sherpa Glacier Solo Mark Weigilt and Jay Osseander Date Climbed: March 1971

We snowshoed into Stuart Lake then climbed up the main Gully to Stuart Glacier. Jay and Mark were trying to climb the North Ridge so I went off to climb Sherpa Glacier by myself. We waited out a storm in a snow cave and I started out on the 4th day, I got to the top of Sherpa Glacier and stayed in a small snow cave. The next morning the Mountain was socked in and I was out of matches, I retreated from the top of the Glacier. On the way back down the Gully above Stuart lake we were in an avalanche, we all survived. Later that year Mark was killed while climbing Ice Cliff Glacier by a Rock Slide. Jay went on to climb the North Ridge in Winter a few years later.

younkin

younkin - Nov 5, 2005 4:10 am

Route Climbed: North Ridge with Laurie Fink, Larry Weis and Russ Truman Date Climbed: summer 1970  Sucess!

We hiked in early from the parking lot to Mountianeer Creek Basin, we climbed the North Ridge and were on top by nightfall, we slept (sort of) on the ledges below the summit and descended via Sherpa Glacier. The Glissade below the Crevasse was Great. Russ and Larry got a little wet on the descent due to bad route finding.

younkin

younkin - Nov 5, 2005 3:46 am

Route Climbed: Sherpa Glacier with Peter Hauch, Randy Asplund and Gerd the wonder dog. Date Climbed: Summer 1970  Sucess!

We camped in Mountianeer Creek Basin, we all climbed the Sherpa Glacier Route, Gerd The Wonder Dog only got to the False Summit, he was eyeballed by a Eagle. Gerd stole some cheese from Peter during a rest stop on the way out.

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