I had a spare day and no partner, so I went up this route to scout it out for descents. One of the most beautiful views ever, but doing a one day push made for a tiring day.
Completed the North ridge on our second trip here. We were turned back by weather on the first. Well worth the second trip!!
Climbed with P and did a pretty good job making our way to the sandy ledges below the final summit pitches. Had gumby moment when rope jammed in blocky terrain just shy of final pitch. Futzed around and ate time in attempts to free rope before finally cruising to the top. Descended via Ulrich's Couloir, which was a bit of a retarded mistake, but I'd climbed this route a few years before and knew the way back. Arrived in the dark back at Ingalls Creek (at the base of the mountain), filled water, and bivyed there for the night before making the 3 mile trek back to our real camp below Ingalls Pass. Super climb, and long day. One or two gumby moments can really affect your schedule, so good to prepare. Good learning experience!
A very enjoyable climb. Very peaceful. Hardly anyone else around. I really enjoyed the solitude.
Great day on the West Ridge. Routefinding required some careful thought but was not overly difficult. We made the climb up to Long John's Tower a bit harder on ourselves by taking a central route along a left-leaning corner. Further right would have been easier, but it was fun to break out the rope & get in a little more 5th class climbing.
Overall, the climbing was easier than expected. With some solid route-research, and reasonable efficiency on the upper pitches, most parties should have no problem getting off before nightfall.
A memorable trip, but the summit was not! The climb was in fog and we couldn't see a thing from the top.
12 of us came across Longs Pass the night before, and 6 went out after the rain and fog discouraged them, but the rest of us made it to the top without incident. On the descent we had one in the party start sliding down the steep snowfield, but was able to arrest. Passed a tent high on the ridge above the couloir -- and ended up giving the two guys in it some matches as they had none!
Perfect campsite at the base of the route up the col. Snow slope not that melted up -- cramponed up about half-way and transferred into the moat; crux of the route. Easy & fun bouldering from the ridge below the false summit over to the true summit.
Camped in meadow below couloir, came in via Longs Pass. Awesome weather and views!
Long day round trip from ingalls lake. Up and over goat pass, across stuart glacier, up the ridge to the summit and down cascadian couloir and a long hike back to the packs. Every minute was worth it though. We had an excellent trip. The north ridge is absolutely spectacular. Great positions and great simulclimbing.
Climbed the upper North Ridge with a party of four. Great climbing, but skipped the gendarme due to time. Still got back late, so we felt good about it.
Climbed Couloir in one day. Left Trail head at 5:30 a.m., got back to car at 8 P.M. Fun climb, almost clear of snow until the upper snowfield. scramble over to summit was awsome. We had perfect weather without any wind at all on the summit. We could see clouds spilling over the cascade crest between Lemah, Chimney rock and Mt. Daniel.
Climbed NR in late Sept, WR in May with a good bit of snow climbing on the route. Nice that way. NR is a super-classic, and the knife-edge leads directly to the start of the crack on the Gendarme, which is nice. Great mountain.
Wonderful weekend climb and excellent workout. Switched out crampons between bouldering and ice travel a couple times. 360* view of other Cascade bretheren. 6000' Elevation gain.
Other than not being sure whether we were headed up the cascadian to begin with, it was pretty straight forward. We ended up going about 3/4 of the way up Ulrich's before traversing over to the cascadion colour. The snow field just below the false summit had receded alot by August so we were able to skirt it, not needing to use crampons.
A brutally hot day. Take lots of water. You'll need it.
The North Ridge's classic reputation is fairly earned. The position and rock make this is one of the best climbs I have done.
We snowshoed into Stuart Lake then climbed up the main Gully to Stuart Glacier. Jay and Mark were trying to climb the North Ridge so I went off to climb Sherpa Glacier by myself. We waited out a storm in a snow cave and I started out on the 4th day, I got to the top of Sherpa Glacier and stayed in a small snow cave. The next morning the Mountain was socked in and I was out of matches, I retreated from the top of the Glacier. On the way back down the Gully above Stuart lake we were in an avalanche, we all survived. Later that year Mark was killed while climbing Ice Cliff Glacier by a Rock Slide. Jay went on to climb the North Ridge in Winter a few years later.
We hiked in early from the parking lot to Mountianeer Creek Basin, we climbed the North Ridge and were on top by nightfall, we slept (sort of) on the ledges below the summit and descended via Sherpa Glacier. The Glissade below the Crevasse was Great. Russ and Larry got a little wet on the descent due to bad route finding.
We camped in Mountianeer Creek Basin, we all climbed the Sherpa Glacier Route, Gerd The Wonder Dog only got to the False Summit, he was eyeballed by a Eagle. Gerd stole some cheese from Peter during a rest stop on the way out.