Done in 3 easy days from Teannaway, intended to do the W ridge but mistakenly started at Goat pass instead, bivied just above pass and on summit, down Cascadian. Fun route. Rats and Picas at bivies.
Perfect weather and fantastic granite. The descent down Cascadian Couloir is the most physically demanding and time consuming portion of the climb. Overall a fine day.
Great peak, but lots of loose slogging.
Took a variation of the Cascadian Couloir route. Route snow-free at this point. Careful of extremely loose rocks below the false summit. This was a physically challenging trip but very rewarding.
Excellent snow coverage, with minimal route finding problems (although we had to stop and think a few times). Despite the lack of technical challenge, the route proved to fun and demanding. I look forward to returning via Stuart Glacier Couloir or West Ridge next year.
p.s. Kyle keep on your exercise regimen!
Woke up around 3AM and were headed for the Cascadian Couloir by 4. The weather was unusually crappy for this time of the year and was very cold on the ascent. By the time I reached the false summit I was exhausted and not in shape to ascend the final, steeper snowfield to the true summit so I stayed at the false summit while my friends ascended the final part. The weather got sunny while I was waiting and I finally got warm, which made the opportunity to nap with a mountain goat a pretty cool one
It was 90 degrees at Longs Pass, which made my feet sweat in my mountaineering boots (WHY DIDN'T I BRING APPROACH SHOES??). My feet were completely raw and blistered by the time we had approached the couloir. My feet barely recovered in time for Rainier. We hope to attempt again in October '07
8 hours roundtrip for Mount Stuart's West Ridge route (descending Cascadian Couloir). I enjoyed this route and the clear and crisp mid-September weather.
Nice two day climb with 6 other people. Camped by the creek half a mile or less from the start of the trail up the couloir. Incredible views on from the higher slopes of the mountain. Recommend a quick digression to go to a little pass that becomes visible after the top of the couloir. Only about 100 ft off to the right from the main path, and the view of Sherpa Peak is amazing. We were lured there by a mountain goat and its child, who were hanging around. Snowfield below false summit had all but melted out, with two steep patches remaining. Rather sketchy and extremely loose getting up to the false summit. Fun scramble to the true summit from there though.
Long climb on mixed rock, sometimes solid, sometimes crappy, fun all around climb.
It was hot, and heat exhaustion sucks... Good climb though.
After Dragontail, I knew Stuart would be next. I climbed up the rock and down the slushy snow. The summit views were amazing and I didn't see anyone else on the mountain the entire trip.
The traverse was quite a slog, but the rock was awesome. We approached via Ingalls Pass and went out via Longs Pass. Great views from the summit. Lots of goats, even at 8000 ft. Had to watch out for their rock fall. There were small patches of snow still for snow melt - but still important to bring plenty. We had a super sweet bivy around 8200 ft. Sheltered (almost cave like), flat & clear of rocks. It fit 3 of us with plenty of room for gear. Had a magnificant view of Adams & Rainier. AMAZING!
I had a spare day and no partner, so I went up this route to scout it out for descents. One of the most beautiful views ever, but doing a one day push made for a tiring day.
Completed the North ridge on our second trip here. We were turned back by weather on the first. Well worth the second trip!!
Climbed with P and did a pretty good job making our way to the sandy ledges below the final summit pitches. Had gumby moment when rope jammed in blocky terrain just shy of final pitch. Futzed around and ate time in attempts to free rope before finally cruising to the top. Descended via Ulrich's Couloir, which was a bit of a retarded mistake, but I'd climbed this route a few years before and knew the way back. Arrived in the dark back at Ingalls Creek (at the base of the mountain), filled water, and bivyed there for the night before making the 3 mile trek back to our real camp below Ingalls Pass. Super climb, and long day. One or two gumby moments can really affect your schedule, so good to prepare. Good learning experience!
A very enjoyable climb. Very peaceful. Hardly anyone else around. I really enjoyed the solitude.
Great day on the West Ridge. Routefinding required some careful thought but was not overly difficult. We made the climb up to Long John's Tower a bit harder on ourselves by taking a central route along a left-leaning corner. Further right would have been easier, but it was fun to break out the rope & get in a little more 5th class climbing.
Overall, the climbing was easier than expected. With some solid route-research, and reasonable efficiency on the upper pitches, most parties should have no problem getting off before nightfall.
A memorable trip, but the summit was not! The climb was in fog and we couldn't see a thing from the top.
12 of us came across Longs Pass the night before, and 6 went out after the rain and fog discouraged them, but the rest of us made it to the top without incident. On the descent we had one in the party start sliding down the steep snowfield, but was able to arrest. Passed a tent high on the ridge above the couloir -- and ended up giving the two guys in it some matches as they had none!
Perfect campsite at the base of the route up the col. Snow slope not that melted up -- cramponed up about half-way and transferred into the moat; crux of the route. Easy & fun bouldering from the ridge below the false summit over to the true summit.