My wife (Maxine Reid) and made a three day round trip. Great to be in such an isolated area. Climb was not too hard but it has it moments.
Climbed the north face/original FA buttress after ascending Luna and both peaks of Fury. Excellent route and an amazing summit. Descended the standard route down the horrible gully. Great way to finish a Pickets traverse
Been trying to solo this thing, third time was the charm. Kind of an intricate route with lots of variety and turns, I don't think that anything I've read really adaquately describes this. Supposedly a 4th class route ascends out of the notch, by going around onto the north face? I dunno, everything looked and felt mid-5th to me.
I first went up the gully to its right by mistake, then kicked myself when I walked another 100 yards west. Not a particularly fun route, but it got the job done. The end of a long day of Picketing (15h45 car-to-car), also featuring the McMillan Spires, Pyramid, and Degenhardt. Trip report.
Good rock but protection scarce. Opted for the rappel instead of the poor rock at the sharp prow. After regaining the ridge, stay on it until the false summit. 5.8+ crux well protected.
This was a super satisfying summit! When I first moved to Washington, this is one mountain that really stood out. I really wanted to climb it and finally got around to doing so.