Left my house at 11pm, arrived at 0615, 6hrs 30 min C2C, made it back before 11pm the same day. Definitely sleeping in on this one!
Even with snowshoes the going was treacherous. Too much snow with too much sun! Either come with skis and be ok with on and off...or wait for the melt.
I departed the Thielsen trail parking lot at 7:30 am with my climbing partner.
Our packs consisted of backcountry skis, ice axe, avy gear, crampons, 2 snow pickets, some slings and cams and a 30m 8.0 rope.
We skinned up to the trail, then bushwhacked a bit to hit the high trail at the PCT/Thielsen trail junction.
Shortly after the junction we traded to crampons and post holed our way to the summit. The snow was soft but when we could find previous tracks, they had just enough ice built up to stay on top. The wind was minimal, and the temp was about 38. Avalanche danger appeared to be minimal, as the face was fairly wind scoured. I did see avalanche activity on the SW face (climbers right).
We used an ice axe for the final 500m approach as the slope nears 40 degrees and a fall would result in a long slide. The final chute had quite a bit of snow and required kick stepping and axe to ascend.
When we arrived at chicken point, two climbers were ahead of us. Someone had shoveled in a small belay ledge, so we anchored our bags to our axes and had a cup of coffee while we waited for the party ahead of us to descend.
I built a belay anchor with a picket and led the final pitch which was 90% dry. I wore my ski boots, which was a little nerve racking but was doable. There are a couple spots for cams on the 4th/low 5th scramble and I placed 3 on the ascent. I reached the anchor at the summit, which consisted of a single 5mm cord and a rap ring. I beefed up the anchor with more webbing and belayed my climbing partner up.
We took a couple quick summit pics and headed down. Unfortunately, the 30m rope was way too short for a double line rappel. It requires a 50m minimum, and a 60 would be better.
My partner rapped a fixed single line down, then I added a biner block and a pull cord made with every sling on my rack.
After the rappel, we post holed our way down, then switched to a glissade/scramble until we got our skis back on. The ski out was fun, but our legs were pretty tired by the time we hit the parking lot.
Great scramble at the top for all of about 100'.
This is one of my favorite mountains to climb so far!
here is a video I made from the trip. Enjoy!
This is such a fun scramble. We got a later start than intended but were still up and down within 7 hours. We took the descent down to the ridgeline quite slow.
It is pretty easy to scramble a route that minimizes exposure such even if you fell, it would never have to be more than 5 feet. Thus I would not place it above class 4. Just the same I brought my helmet and encourage others to do the same. My wife who does not love exposure at all and is quite scared of heights gave the scramble some consideration to doing the scramble, but she ultimately decided against it as she did not have her helmet and did not want to find herself frozen on the down-climb.
Because there were a number of folks already at the summit, we waited for a while until everyone who had been up there safely down-climbed.
This was a fabulous hike when we went, made it to the summit. Nice clear day, stunning!! Note that the mosquitoes were the absolute worst I've ever seen in my life. Got bit at the summit even and that's no joke, came home with over 50 bites. I was wearing bug spray but got bit everywhere head to ankle.
My 2nd Thielsen climb. I was fortunate on my first (solo) climb that experienced folks pointed out the way for me up the summit block from Chicken Ledge. This time I was able to guide a friend to the top on a beautiful day.
Started at 4:30am and summited at 7:50. Enjoyed spectactular views of the Sisters and McLoughlin.
Mt. Thielsen and Holly's Ridge. Mt. Thielsen went as expected, easy few miles from the trailhead followed by scramble the last mile up to the summit. Good weather and great visibility.
Holly's Ridge was a difficult scramble from the PCT straight up to the saddle. 1K feet elevation gain on loose pumice with the occasional 4' snow drift. Tough going even for someone in good shape. After the saddle it's an easy walk across to the higher East summit which rewards you of amazing views of the northeast face of Mt. Thielsen including the Lathrop Glacier. 16.5 miles round trip with 5k feet of climbing. See the Vlog to see more.
Not sure why this entry disappeared. Getting tired of finding my entries have vanished.
First climb was solo. Loved it.
Fun overnight trip with two buddies. Hiked/splitboarded in and then camped on the ridge at 7300 feet and left for the summit at 5 AM the next morning. Took the left gully which was holding quite a bit of snow as opposed to standard switchbacks above the talus. Fun angled traverse of the gully, maybe 35 degree maximum in tennis shoes and ice axe. scramble above that to regain the regular trail was on very poor rock. Took a small trad rack for the summit pitch but easily a low fifth class solo. Fun outing!
This was the most awesome summit. What a hike and climb! If you like a good scramble, Mt. Thielsen is for you! But be careful! The summit block is great rock with lots of hand and foot holds.
Great day for a climb, I put together the climb on my meetup group. NW Wilderness. Had 8 people show up on a friday night drive for a Saturday Climb. out of 10 we had 9 summit, I being out of climbing shape stopped at about 8000 feet. No worries though it was my 4th trip up, I summitted all the others. This is my favorite climb in Oregon just always a fun one and so scenic. Doing 3fj in a few weeks. The most exposed mountain I believe.
A fun morning scramble to break up the commute through Oregon. The summit knob is 4th class and remarkably solid. Trip report.
There was bad weather for weeks in WA so Heather and I drove through OR, CA, NV, UT, and ID. We climbed 37 peaks in 19 days and Thielsen was the first. It was not as cool as all the hype I've heard over the years. In fact, the approach was rather boring. We did not use a rope. trip report
Still snow below the PCT. Fun hike.
Some smoke to the South, but otherwise very clear. Nice fast hike with Todd. Quite a few other parties.
Lots of smoke from the fires Northwest of Crater Lake. Met a father and his 12 year old son at the summit pinnacle rapping down, bravo for him giving his son a great outing. Enjoyed the brief scrambling on the summit pinnacle, only wished for better views.
With Sue, Mark (birthday boy) and Natasha. Went up with axes and crampons but never even needed to put on gaiters. Sunny day, fun pinnacle climb and good Mexican food in Roseburg on the way home.