Decon - Mar 13, 2024 8:53 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2019
Back again
Brought my cousin up for his first summit
yadahzoemtn - Aug 4, 2023 6:48 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2023
Finishing up the Cascade Volcanoes
This mountain looks so intimidating but it turned out to be so much fun. The last 50' was super chill 3/4 Class climbing. Nothing to worry about for someone who has done a little bit of climbing with exposure. Go for it!
Moogie737 - Aug 2, 2023 4:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2023
Bluebird day
What an experience! The final 50’ with Lana leading was a rush.
Cliffzavala - Feb 22, 2023 9:41 am Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2021
Solo in Skate Shoes
Went up the NW arete, forgetting to bring climbing shoes. Ended up reaching the summit with nothing more than a pair of skate shoes...
Mack1two - Oct 2, 2022 10:19 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2022
Fun solo climb
Pretty fun and straightforward hike with some great scrambling to get to the summit. C2C in 5:46.
mattcookoregon - Aug 17, 2022 4:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2022
Fun climb!
The 10 mile hike is average difficulty. The final half mile is tougher with scree, boulder fields, and a 50 foot scramble to the top. About half people free climb it, and half use ropes as far as I have seen. The rock is a lot more solid than most crumbly cascades.
Here is a video about the mountain and making the summit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbWe47IZTY8
Jowzynkyn - Jul 26, 2021 12:31 am Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2021
Overnight trip in just under 23 hours
Left my house at 11pm, arrived at 0615, 6hrs 30 min C2C, made it back before 11pm the same day. Definitely sleeping in on this one!
Coryroman - May 18, 2021 7:46 am Date Climbed: May 15, 2021
Posthole posthole posthole
Even with snowshoes the going was treacherous. Too much snow with too much sun! Either come with skis and be ok with on and off...or wait for the melt.
I departed the Thielsen trail parking lot at 7:30 am with my climbing partner.
Our packs consisted of backcountry skis, ice axe, avy gear, crampons, 2 snow pickets, some slings and cams and a 30m 8.0 rope.
We skinned up to the trail, then bushwhacked a bit to hit the high trail at the PCT/Thielsen trail junction.
Shortly after the junction we traded to crampons and post holed our way to the summit. The snow was soft but when we could find previous tracks, they had just enough ice built up to stay on top. The wind was minimal, and the temp was about 38. Avalanche danger appeared to be minimal, as the face was fairly wind scoured. I did see avalanche activity on the SW face (climbers right).
We used an ice axe for the final 500m approach as the slope nears 40 degrees and a fall would result in a long slide. The final chute had quite a bit of snow and required kick stepping and axe to ascend.
When we arrived at chicken point, two climbers were ahead of us. Someone had shoveled in a small belay ledge, so we anchored our bags to our axes and had a cup of coffee while we waited for the party ahead of us to descend.
I built a belay anchor with a picket and led the final pitch which was 90% dry. I wore my ski boots, which was a little nerve racking but was doable. There are a couple spots for cams on the 4th/low 5th scramble and I placed 3 on the ascent. I reached the anchor at the summit, which consisted of a single 5mm cord and a rap ring. I beefed up the anchor with more webbing and belayed my climbing partner up.
We took a couple quick summit pics and headed down. Unfortunately, the 30m rope was way too short for a double line rappel. It requires a 50m minimum, and a 60 would be better.
My partner rapped a fixed single line down, then I added a biner block and a pull cord made with every sling on my rack.
After the rappel, we post holed our way down, then switched to a glissade/scramble until we got our skis back on. The ski out was fun, but our legs were pretty tired by the time we hit the parking lot.
blueshade - Aug 15, 2020 10:10 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2020
Nice but brief scramble
Great scramble at the top for all of about 100'.
AndrewDLB - Aug 16, 2019 12:50 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2019
Free Climbing Mt Theilson
This is one of my favorite mountains to climb so far!
here is a video I made from the trip. Enjoy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtpOTICMmW4
This is such a fun scramble. We got a later start than intended but were still up and down within 7 hours. We took the descent down to the ridgeline quite slow.
It is pretty easy to scramble a route that minimizes exposure such even if you fell, it would never have to be more than 5 feet. Thus I would not place it above class 4. Just the same I brought my helmet and encourage others to do the same. My wife who does not love exposure at all and is quite scared of heights gave the scramble some consideration to doing the scramble, but she ultimately decided against it as she did not have her helmet and did not want to find herself frozen on the down-climb.
Because there were a number of folks already at the summit, we waited for a while until everyone who had been up there safely down-climbed.
This was a fabulous hike when we went, made it to the summit. Nice clear day, stunning!! Note that the mosquitoes were the absolute worst I've ever seen in my life. Got bit at the summit even and that's no joke, came home with over 50 bites. I was wearing bug spray but got bit everywhere head to ankle.
My 2nd Thielsen climb. I was fortunate on my first (solo) climb that experienced folks pointed out the way for me up the summit block from Chicken Ledge. This time I was able to guide a friend to the top on a beautiful day.
texas->PNW - Oct 18, 2018 6:47 pm Date Climbed: Oct 13, 2018
Sunrise Summit
Started at 4:30am and summited at 7:50. Enjoyed spectactular views of the Sisters and McLoughlin.
SkiValdez - Jul 16, 2018 2:50 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2018
Mt. Thielsen - Holly's Ridge Double
Mt. Thielsen and Holly's Ridge. Mt. Thielsen went as expected, easy few miles from the trailhead followed by scramble the last mile up to the summit. Good weather and great visibility.
Holly's Ridge was a difficult scramble from the PCT straight up to the saddle. 1K feet elevation gain on loose pumice with the occasional 4' snow drift. Tough going even for someone in good shape. After the saddle it's an easy walk across to the higher East summit which rewards you of amazing views of the northeast face of Mt. Thielsen including the Lathrop Glacier. 16.5 miles round trip with 5k feet of climbing. See the Vlog to see more.
https://youtu.be/zIqgMaphhKA
https://www.strava.com/activities/1672814789
Brian Jenkins - Jul 22, 2017 5:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2002
Original entry
Not sure why this entry disappeared. Getting tired of finding my entries have vanished.
First climb was solo. Loved it.
sethocaster - Jun 23, 2017 3:09 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2017
Fun, easy trip
Fun overnight trip with two buddies. Hiked/splitboarded in and then camped on the ridge at 7300 feet and left for the summit at 5 AM the next morning. Took the left gully which was holding quite a bit of snow as opposed to standard switchbacks above the talus. Fun angled traverse of the gully, maybe 35 degree maximum in tennis shoes and ice axe. scramble above that to regain the regular trail was on very poor rock. Took a small trad rack for the summit pitch but easily a low fifth class solo. Fun outing!
climber46 - Oct 24, 2016 8:09 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007
Awesome summit
This was the most awesome summit. What a hike and climb! If you like a good scramble, Mt. Thielsen is for you! But be careful! The summit block is great rock with lots of hand and foot holds.
Great day for a climb, I put together the climb on my meetup group. NW Wilderness. Had 8 people show up on a friday night drive for a Saturday Climb. out of 10 we had 9 summit, I being out of climbing shape stopped at about 8000 feet. No worries though it was my 4th trip up, I summitted all the others. This is my favorite climb in Oregon just always a fun one and so scenic. Doing 3fj in a few weeks. The most exposed mountain I believe.
Decon - Mar 13, 2024 8:53 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2019
Back againBrought my cousin up for his first summit
yadahzoemtn - Aug 4, 2023 6:48 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2023
Finishing up the Cascade VolcanoesThis mountain looks so intimidating but it turned out to be so much fun. The last 50' was super chill 3/4 Class climbing. Nothing to worry about for someone who has done a little bit of climbing with exposure. Go for it!
Moogie737 - Aug 2, 2023 4:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2023
Bluebird dayWhat an experience! The final 50’ with Lana leading was a rush.
Cliffzavala - Feb 22, 2023 9:41 am Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2021
Solo in Skate ShoesWent up the NW arete, forgetting to bring climbing shoes. Ended up reaching the summit with nothing more than a pair of skate shoes...
Mack1two - Oct 2, 2022 10:19 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2022
Fun solo climbPretty fun and straightforward hike with some great scrambling to get to the summit. C2C in 5:46.
mattcookoregon - Aug 17, 2022 4:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2022
Fun climb!The 10 mile hike is average difficulty. The final half mile is tougher with scree, boulder fields, and a 50 foot scramble to the top. About half people free climb it, and half use ropes as far as I have seen. The rock is a lot more solid than most crumbly cascades.
Here is a video about the mountain and making the summit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbWe47IZTY8
Jowzynkyn - Jul 26, 2021 12:31 am Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2021
Overnight trip in just under 23 hoursLeft my house at 11pm, arrived at 0615, 6hrs 30 min C2C, made it back before 11pm the same day. Definitely sleeping in on this one!
Coryroman - May 18, 2021 7:46 am Date Climbed: May 15, 2021
Posthole posthole postholeEven with snowshoes the going was treacherous. Too much snow with too much sun! Either come with skis and be ok with on and off...or wait for the melt.
RSBGHKR - Apr 4, 2021 6:31 pm Date Climbed: Apr 3, 2021
Snow summit 21I departed the Thielsen trail parking lot at 7:30 am with my climbing partner.
Our packs consisted of backcountry skis, ice axe, avy gear, crampons, 2 snow pickets, some slings and cams and a 30m 8.0 rope.
We skinned up to the trail, then bushwhacked a bit to hit the high trail at the PCT/Thielsen trail junction.
Shortly after the junction we traded to crampons and post holed our way to the summit. The snow was soft but when we could find previous tracks, they had just enough ice built up to stay on top. The wind was minimal, and the temp was about 38. Avalanche danger appeared to be minimal, as the face was fairly wind scoured. I did see avalanche activity on the SW face (climbers right).
We used an ice axe for the final 500m approach as the slope nears 40 degrees and a fall would result in a long slide. The final chute had quite a bit of snow and required kick stepping and axe to ascend.
When we arrived at chicken point, two climbers were ahead of us. Someone had shoveled in a small belay ledge, so we anchored our bags to our axes and had a cup of coffee while we waited for the party ahead of us to descend.
I built a belay anchor with a picket and led the final pitch which was 90% dry. I wore my ski boots, which was a little nerve racking but was doable. There are a couple spots for cams on the 4th/low 5th scramble and I placed 3 on the ascent. I reached the anchor at the summit, which consisted of a single 5mm cord and a rap ring. I beefed up the anchor with more webbing and belayed my climbing partner up.
We took a couple quick summit pics and headed down. Unfortunately, the 30m rope was way too short for a double line rappel. It requires a 50m minimum, and a 60 would be better.
My partner rapped a fixed single line down, then I added a biner block and a pull cord made with every sling on my rack.
After the rappel, we post holed our way down, then switched to a glissade/scramble until we got our skis back on. The ski out was fun, but our legs were pretty tired by the time we hit the parking lot.
blueshade - Aug 15, 2020 10:10 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2020
Nice but brief scrambleGreat scramble at the top for all of about 100'.
AndrewDLB - Aug 16, 2019 12:50 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2019
Free Climbing Mt TheilsonThis is one of my favorite mountains to climb so far!
here is a video I made from the trip. Enjoy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtpOTICMmW4
huskertriguy - Jul 24, 2019 10:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2019
Super fun scrambleThis is such a fun scramble. We got a later start than intended but were still up and down within 7 hours. We took the descent down to the ridgeline quite slow.
It is pretty easy to scramble a route that minimizes exposure such even if you fell, it would never have to be more than 5 feet. Thus I would not place it above class 4. Just the same I brought my helmet and encourage others to do the same. My wife who does not love exposure at all and is quite scared of heights gave the scramble some consideration to doing the scramble, but she ultimately decided against it as she did not have her helmet and did not want to find herself frozen on the down-climb.
Because there were a number of folks already at the summit, we waited for a while until everyone who had been up there safely down-climbed.
alitak - Jul 23, 2019 9:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2019
Africanized MosquitoesThis was a fabulous hike when we went, made it to the summit. Nice clear day, stunning!! Note that the mosquitoes were the absolute worst I've ever seen in my life. Got bit at the summit even and that's no joke, came home with over 50 bites. I was wearing bug spray but got bit everywhere head to ankle.
theoglick - Apr 7, 2019 8:48 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2016
Climbing the Ligntning RodMy 2nd Thielsen climb. I was fortunate on my first (solo) climb that experienced folks pointed out the way for me up the summit block from Chicken Ledge. This time I was able to guide a friend to the top on a beautiful day.
texas->PNW - Oct 18, 2018 6:47 pm Date Climbed: Oct 13, 2018
Sunrise SummitStarted at 4:30am and summited at 7:50. Enjoyed spectactular views of the Sisters and McLoughlin.
SkiValdez - Jul 16, 2018 2:50 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2018
Mt. Thielsen - Holly's Ridge DoubleMt. Thielsen and Holly's Ridge. Mt. Thielsen went as expected, easy few miles from the trailhead followed by scramble the last mile up to the summit. Good weather and great visibility.
Holly's Ridge was a difficult scramble from the PCT straight up to the saddle. 1K feet elevation gain on loose pumice with the occasional 4' snow drift. Tough going even for someone in good shape. After the saddle it's an easy walk across to the higher East summit which rewards you of amazing views of the northeast face of Mt. Thielsen including the Lathrop Glacier. 16.5 miles round trip with 5k feet of climbing. See the Vlog to see more.
https://youtu.be/zIqgMaphhKA
https://www.strava.com/activities/1672814789
Brian Jenkins - Jul 22, 2017 5:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2002
Original entryNot sure why this entry disappeared. Getting tired of finding my entries have vanished.
First climb was solo. Loved it.
sethocaster - Jun 23, 2017 3:09 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2017
Fun, easy tripFun overnight trip with two buddies. Hiked/splitboarded in and then camped on the ridge at 7300 feet and left for the summit at 5 AM the next morning. Took the left gully which was holding quite a bit of snow as opposed to standard switchbacks above the talus. Fun angled traverse of the gully, maybe 35 degree maximum in tennis shoes and ice axe. scramble above that to regain the regular trail was on very poor rock. Took a small trad rack for the summit pitch but easily a low fifth class solo. Fun outing!
climber46 - Oct 24, 2016 8:09 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007
Awesome summitThis was the most awesome summit. What a hike and climb! If you like a good scramble, Mt. Thielsen is for you! But be careful! The summit block is great rock with lots of hand and foot holds.
rick6003 - Sep 12, 2016 7:10 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2016
fun day on the mountainGreat day for a climb, I put together the climb on my meetup group. NW Wilderness. Had 8 people show up on a friday night drive for a Saturday Climb. out of 10 we had 9 summit, I being out of climbing shape stopped at about 8000 feet. No worries though it was my 4th trip up, I summitted all the others. This is my favorite climb in Oregon just always a fun one and so scenic. Doing 3fj in a few weeks. The most exposed mountain I believe.