We lucked out and had great weather. This would make for an easy 1 day hike, but coupled with the long drive from the Portland area, we decided to camp (7200'). Lost the trail because of snow somewhere around 6500' and headed cross country for the West / Northwest ridge. Because of the route we took, an ice ax was essential and crampons advised, it had froze and the snow was really hard and icy, with another route some of this could have been avoided. The top is pretty easy with only 1 or 2 spots that really have any difficulty, however a mistake there could be costly.
Climbed this one as part of a twelve-person Mazama climb. Only saw three other people all day. Mostly sunny by the time we got out of the trees. Thunder & lightning over Crater Lake by the time we were descending the summit block (time to get off this rod!). Great day...
A beautiful august morning dawned upon us as we awoke at the Mt thielson trailhead. Seven of us headed up the climbers trail with ropes and a pro rack. We stopped awhile at the p.c.t junction to enjoy a west face view of our objective. As we hiked above treeline the trail became a faint boot track with steep switch backs. we climbed out and above Thielsons hand and onto the dinnerplate scree. The slab scree is probably the most dangerous part of this climb. Awhile later after a tedious scramble we arrive at chicken point. The point bieng the staging area for the summit pinnacle. There was a group of Mazamas already present setting up a fixed line. As we waited we became aquainted with The mazamas. Mean while other climbers arrived and many were choosing to summit solo (certainly faster). Oddly enough but not completly hard to believe,a group shows up looking like they were ready for a trip to the movie theater not a mountain climb. I do believe there downclimb provided the dose of reality of what they got themselves into. We get are turn and swiftly set up the fixed line and start going up one at a time. The view is outstanding,the sheer drops on three sides of the pinnacle are just radical. The fulgarite crystals were all over the summit reminding us of just how dangerous this summit is in an electrical storm. A rappel is set up and we all make are way down from the pinnacle. We down climb the saddle and scree ski down to the P.c.t a great day on a fun mountain.
A weekend to remember. One of the last trips before heading off to college. Took off for a weekend at Diamond Lake with a side-trip summit of Thielsen in the works. Not long after we made it past the tree line, ominous clouds gathered and let loose with the loudest, closest cloudburst I've ever witnessed. NOT a good time to be on the "lightning rod of the Cascades..." We sprint/screed down for cover in the trees until the hail passed. Upon returning to camp we found a small creek running through our site and mounds of hail piled up against our tent. You may have won this round, Thielsen, but I will be back to claim you some day.
great winter route, can be easily done in a day by competent group:
Cool Summit pitch
This was my first "climb" of any of the mountains I have tried to summit. I am relatively new to scrambling up the side of a mountain using all four extremities. I made it up to chicken point and called it good, as I wasn't completely comfortable climbing the rest of the way without ropes or more class 4 experience. I will try this one again next year after I have climbed a few others and feel a little more comfortable. It was a great day though for climbing and there were only about 7 others that my friend and I saw on the trail that day. I need to add that he made it to the top.
Great peak! The short section of class 4 on top was very fun (but too short!). Carried only a very light hydration pack. Roundtrip time was about 5 hrs. Talked briefly with Peter and his wife (or some couple anyway) on my way down. Use solid rock wherever possible to avoid the loose stuff. The loose stuff was more of a problem on the way down. Weather was excellent.
Fun climb! No skeeters this time around. Made it to the last 80ft, and climbed up with the wife. Not too scary if you can find the correct route. Hint for new climbers: about halfway up, look right/south around a boulder for the easy way up.
Rapped off the top, and the wife did great! The descent is made much easier if you stay on the ridge. We saw too many people too far to the south, on the sketchy scree. Trekking poles help.
Kudos to Brian Jenkins for some good beta on the climb via email. I love that about SP--you can email the experts for advice.
Camped out near trailhead on Tuesday night after a long drive from Portland; the mosquitoes where buzzing around the tent all night! Woke up early the next day and headed for the summit under dense clouds. Looking down while climbing the summit pinnacle made my sphincter tighten at times but reached the summit without much difficulty. The early morning clouds dispersed allowing a great view of Diamond Lake. Overall, an enjoyable climb.
I thoroughly enjoyed this climb. The scree wasn't nearly as bad as I imagined. A use trail cuts through it. Stick to the west ridge use trails for as long as possible.
The summit block was a lot of fun!
Had always climbed it late season so snow most of the way was a treat. Peerlessly sunny day. GPSed our way right to the ridge. My climbing partner had plastic boots he'd brought along for Shasta and slick tennis shoes so.......he climbed the pinnacle barefoot. Fourth time up.
We (wife and dog ascended to the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) intersection
for a family picnic) hiked in 4 miles to the PCT. With snow on the ground, you can lose the
trail. But you are basically ascending due east gaining a north-south ridge perpendicular to the
southwest summit ridge. You intersect the PCT at this point. I skinned up in back country
skis until the rock exposed final 1000' (top right). The scree was frozen making for an easy
steep hike at this point until the last 200' which was an exposed scramble that some will require
I don't necessary recommend skies. For a faster round trip, with snow conditions I was faced with, I would just take crampons (in case there is ice towards the summit). I had snowshoes, skis, skins, TV, kitchen sink....kind of felt like I was on an expedition, but hey, the Cascades are not my back yard, so I did not know what to expect. On to Shasta!
Month and year correct, but actual day is approx. Myself and five other college senior guys. More full account in "trip reports."
With Mr. Kantola. Spindrift on the ridge. 50 mph winds on the summit. I think the summit pinnacle was swaying. Off route and separated on the descent. Other than that, perfect! My fifth Cascade volcano winter attempt and second summit.
Nice climb - 4.5 hrs up, 3.5 hours down.
Was the summit spire moving back and forth ? On top I got a little woozy with just the 3-5 boulders underneath. Hot Springs at Toktee erased the memory of all the scree on the way down.
Great climb on a beutiful day. Only saw 3 other people and had very little wind at the top. The class 3-4 climb was really fun. It was pretty easy, and that is coming from a guy who has little rock climbing background. We did have a little experience with falling rock, caused by our party. We had one of the larger boulders near the summit go crashing down when we were testing for rappel anchor points. Pretty amazing experince, although not one I would like to relive. Just be careful of those huge rocks that look like they are stationary.