Mount Thielsen Climber's Log

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millsb40

millsb40 - Jun 19, 2006 5:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2006

Great Climb  Sucess!

We lucked out and had great weather. This would make for an easy 1 day hike, but coupled with the long drive from the Portland area, we decided to camp (7200'). Lost the trail because of snow somewhere around 6500' and headed cross country for the West / Northwest ridge. Because of the route we took, an ice ax was essential and crampons advised, it had froze and the snow was really hard and icy, with another route some of this could have been avoided. The top is pretty easy with only 1 or 2 spots that really have any difficulty, however a mistake there could be costly.

Karl Helser

Karl Helser - Jun 14, 2006 12:25 pm Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2006

Great climb...  Sucess!

Climbed this one as part of a twelve-person Mazama climb. Only saw three other people all day. Mostly sunny by the time we got out of the trees. Thunder & lightning over Crater Lake by the time we were descending the summit block (time to get off this rod!). Great day...

cascadetraveler

cascadetraveler - May 20, 2006 8:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2003

Sharin the summit with towns folk.  Sucess!

A beautiful august morning dawned upon us as we awoke at the Mt thielson trailhead. Seven of us headed up the climbers trail with ropes and a pro rack. We stopped awhile at the p.c.t junction to enjoy a west face view of our objective. As we hiked above treeline the trail became a faint boot track with steep switch backs. we climbed out and above Thielsons hand and onto the dinnerplate scree. The slab scree is probably the most dangerous part of this climb. Awhile later after a tedious scramble we arrive at chicken point. The point bieng the staging area for the summit pinnacle. There was a group of Mazamas already present setting up a fixed line. As we waited we became aquainted with The mazamas. Mean while other climbers arrived and many were choosing to summit solo (certainly faster). Oddly enough but not completly hard to believe,a group shows up looking like they were ready for a trip to the movie theater not a mountain climb. I do believe there downclimb provided the dose of reality of what they got themselves into. We get are turn and swiftly set up the fixed line and start going up one at a time. The view is outstanding,the sheer drops on three sides of the pinnacle are just radical. The fulgarite crystals were all over the summit reminding us of just how dangerous this summit is in an electrical storm. A rappel is set up and we all make are way down from the pinnacle. We down climb the saddle and scree ski down to the P.c.t a great day on a fun mountain.

uap304

uap304 - Apr 4, 2006 6:40 pm

Thunderous Thielsen

A weekend to remember. One of the last trips before heading off to college. Took off for a weekend at Diamond Lake with a side-trip summit of Thielsen in the works. Not long after we made it past the tree line, ominous clouds gathered and let loose with the loudest, closest cloudburst I've ever witnessed. NOT a good time to be on the "lightning rod of the Cascades..." We sprint/screed down for cover in the trees until the hail passed. Upon returning to camp we found a small creek running through our site and mounds of hail piled up against our tent. You may have won this round, Thielsen, but I will be back to claim you some day.

cdog

cdog - Feb 25, 2006 2:27 am Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2005

winter ascent  Sucess!

great winter route, can be easily done in a day by competent group:

trip report

Aaron Smith - Jan 23, 2006 2:52 pm

Route Climbed: southern Date Climbed: September 17, 2005  Sucess!

My first.

markmay

markmay - Dec 8, 2005 9:07 pm

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: June 25 2005  Sucess!

Cool Summit pitch

2skinners - Oct 4, 2005 1:45 pm

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August 25, 2005 (Unsuccessful)

This was my first "climb" of any of the mountains I have tried to summit. I am relatively new to scrambling up the side of a mountain using all four extremities. I made it up to chicken point and called it good, as I wasn't completely comfortable climbing the rest of the way without ropes or more class 4 experience. I will try this one again next year after I have climbed a few others and feel a little more comfortable. It was a great day though for climbing and there were only about 7 others that my friend and I saw on the trail that day. I need to add that he made it to the top.

Rick Kent

Rick Kent - Aug 17, 2005 8:25 pm

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2005  Sucess!

Great peak! The short section of class 4 on top was very fun (but too short!). Carried only a very light hydration pack. Roundtrip time was about 5 hrs. Talked briefly with Peter and his wife (or some couple anyway) on my way down. Use solid rock wherever possible to avoid the loose stuff. The loose stuff was more of a problem on the way down. Weather was excellent.

PeterOrth - Aug 16, 2005 9:59 am

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August 12 2005  Sucess!

Fun climb! No skeeters this time around. Made it to the last 80ft, and climbed up with the wife. Not too scary if you can find the correct route. Hint for new climbers: about halfway up, look right/south around a boulder for the easy way up.



Rapped off the top, and the wife did great! The descent is made much easier if you stay on the ridge. We saw too many people too far to the south, on the sketchy scree. Trekking poles help.



Kudos to Brian Jenkins for some good beta on the climb via email. I love that about SP--you can email the experts for advice.



Cheers

artg

artg - Aug 3, 2005 11:14 pm

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July 6, 2005  Sucess!

Camped out near trailhead on Tuesday night after a long drive from Portland; the mosquitoes where buzzing around the tent all night! Woke up early the next day and headed for the summit under dense clouds. Looking down while climbing the summit pinnacle made my sphincter tighten at times but reached the summit without much difficulty. The early morning clouds dispersed allowing a great view of Diamond Lake. Overall, an enjoyable climb.

Dave K - Jul 17, 2005 11:53 pm

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July 16, 2005  Sucess!

I thoroughly enjoyed this climb. The scree wasn't nearly as bad as I imagined. A use trail cuts through it. Stick to the west ridge use trails for as long as possible.



The summit block was a lot of fun!

leftfield

leftfield - Jun 11, 2005 6:55 pm

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: May 30, 2005  Sucess!

Had always climbed it late season so snow most of the way was a treat. Peerlessly sunny day. GPSed our way right to the ridge. My climbing partner had plastic boots he'd brought along for Shasta and slick tennis shoes so.......he climbed the pinnacle barefoot. Fourth time up.

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - May 10, 2005 12:04 am

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: March, 2005  Sucess!

We (wife and dog ascended to the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) intersection

for a family picnic) hiked in 4 miles to the PCT. With snow on the ground, you can lose the

trail. But you are basically ascending due east gaining a north-south ridge perpendicular to the

southwest summit ridge. You intersect the PCT at this point. I skinned up in back country

skis until the rock exposed final 1000' (top right). The scree was frozen making for an easy

steep hike at this point until the last 200' which was an exposed scramble that some will require

rope for.



I don't necessary recommend skies. For a faster round trip, with snow conditions I was faced with, I would just take crampons (in case there is ice towards the summit). I had snowshoes, skis, skins, TV, kitchen sink....kind of felt like I was on an expedition, but hey, the Cascades are not my back yard, so I did not know what to expect. On to Shasta!

jdavies212

jdavies212 - Apr 23, 2005 7:52 am

Route Climbed: Four-mile trail to summit Date Climbed: 20 April 1972  Sucess!

Month and year correct, but actual day is approx. Myself and five other college senior guys. More full account in "trip reports."

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Mar 14, 2005 1:15 am

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: March 13, 2005  Sucess!

With Mr. Kantola. Spindrift on the ridge. 50 mph winds on the summit. I think the summit pinnacle was swaying. Off route and separated on the descent. Other than that, perfect! My fifth Cascade volcano winter attempt and second summit.

dkantola

dkantola - Mar 14, 2005 12:10 am

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: March 13, 2005  Sucess!

Heinous.

onandupwards

onandupwards - Jan 22, 2005 11:25 pm

Route Climbed: West ridge Date Climbed: 7/21/03  Sucess!

Nice climb - 4.5 hrs up, 3.5 hours down.

Was the summit spire moving back and forth ? On top I got a little woozy with just the 3-5 boulders underneath. Hot Springs at Toktee erased the memory of all the scree on the way down.

onandupwards

onandupwards - Jan 22, 2005 11:24 pm

Route Climbed: West ridge Date Climbed: 7/21/03  Sucess!

Nice climb - 4.5 hrs up, 3.5 hours down.

Was the summit spire moving back and forth ? On top I got a little woozy with just the 3-5 boulders underneath. Hot Springs at Toktee erased the memory of all the scree on the way down.

Pawkala

Pawkala - Sep 29, 2004 4:21 pm

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: September 27, 2004  Sucess!

Great climb on a beutiful day. Only saw 3 other people and had very little wind at the top. The class 3-4 climb was really fun. It was pretty easy, and that is coming from a guy who has little rock climbing background. We did have a little experience with falling rock, caused by our party. We had one of the larger boulders near the summit go crashing down when we were testing for rappel anchor points. Pretty amazing experince, although not one I would like to relive. Just be careful of those huge rocks that look like they are stationary.

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