Jim and I tagged Ski Mtners Pk then took on the north ridge, finding it to be a ton of fun on pretty stable stone. Terrific views from building block summit. Descended just in time for thunderstorm.
Day 3 of the alt Sierra Challenge 2013. While the hard core Challenge nuts crossed the crest at Echo Col and met bad weather on the Black Divide, seven of us (Laura, Joan, Tommey, Carol, Jeff, Jim, and I) headed for Ski Mountaineers peak first followed by Mt Thompson via its tricky but highly satisfying north ridge. Once on top, Tommey continued on to Pt Powell while the others returned the way they came. I continued the grand loop by dropping down Thompson's horrible SE chute and climbing the only weakness (a class 2 chute) on Mt Gilbert's west side. Bypassing the summit due to bad weather (and having climbed it before), I climbed over Mt Johnson (with thunderstorms both north and south of me) before returning via the Treasure Lakes basin. Pictures & Story
Really enjoyed this day overall, in part due to visiting the three summits of Mount Powell in the morning. Then over to Mount Thompson after barely dropping into the basin to the west. Splendid views and weather all day, and had Sunset Lake all to myself the night before.
With P. Dowdy: Up and down the Harrington while the wifes battled moths back in the cabin
Made the up and down slog.. then went on to Powell
SMG basecamped in the Thompson Gilbert basin late May and our first climb upon reaching camp was the Harrington, accomplished with six climbers in firm early season conditions, downclimbing on the descent.
A cold, wet powder-fest, where I was hoping for neve or ice. Trip report.
Soloed the NW Face I am guessing, left of Moynier Couloir. Found mostly fresh snow on rock with a couple good bands of ice in the middle and at the top.
Downclimbed Harrington Couloir, soloed up the Smrz Couloir, then downclimbed Knutson Couloir.
All in all took about 4.5 hours.
up and down the "Non Moynier" couloir, which is a ribbon of snow just left of the Moynier.
Moynier couloir (to the climber's far right sometimes referred to as the north couloir). It had snowed over night covering the couloir's alpine ice with fresh snow. The chock stone covered with fresh snow made this pitch live up to its crux rep. Low clouds and a fresh dusting of the surrounding peaks made for great vistas on top. Because of the fresh snow we did not descend the Thompson ridge, but rapped the Knutsen couloir.
A good day out w/ Tim from USC; couloir was melting out up top; we will never go near the Thompson ridge again - that place is a death trap.
Miguel Forjan and I climbed the Moynier Couloir in great conditions. One of the
best sierra climbs I have done, steep ice and some mixed climbing.
Easy neve climb for most of the way with patches of ice. Last pitch was the crux: several inches of snow covering steep brittle ice, both of which I unfortunately sent down on the party below. Bit of a hike to the summit but a great day, despite the ensuing rap epic detailed in my TR.
fun climb, good friends, and sunny weather. What more could one ask for?!
Climbed with Peter Doucette. Ascent was via the Harrington couloir was a straight forward hard neve and alpine ice climb followed by a descent of the Knutsen couloir.
Climbed the route by soloing and simulclimbing with 3 on the rope. Long day out. 5 man rap stations took hours to get down. Great fun though. Did not summit. My ankle was killing me. Got back to the car around 11:pm.
Simul-climbed with forjan and awagher on a beautiful day. Also on the route were MichaelJ and Pellucidwombat. The 5 of us rapped down together, which was a BAD idea. 5 raps with 5 people took 5 hours.
Sometimes in mid to late nineties (96?) Gerry Cox invited me to climb the central couloir on Mt.Thompson. RJ Secor told Gerry that the central Couloir on the North face of Thompson was not climbed so Gerry told me, let''s go have a look at it. ( The couloir was first climbed in 1990 by John Moynier and Scott Andrews, we learned later). When we reached the Thompson Glacier, Gerry came down with terrible flu so I decided to have a look at the gully myself. I climbed the gully and the rock section in the middle (5.6?) and managed to get up it in about 2.5 hours. The problem was that the Thompson North Ridge descent with fresh snow on it looked anything but 3rd class. I didn't think I could down climb this so after some introspection I downclimbed the Harrington Couloir. Exciting...Gerry saw me coming down that gully and thought I was totally nuts, but he didn't know what the Thompson descent looked like.. Some years later, in his Second Edition, RJ Secor named the couloir after me, one of the honors I will never get over. Imagine to have your name on anything in the Sierra Nevada? Thanks Robert.
Michael Gordon and I climbed the Moynier Couloir on good and solid alpine ice in October 2000. I found this gully to be as good (and steep) as the legendary Mendel Couloir Right with the short rock section even harder than Mendel. We soloed the first 4-5 pitches and roped about 2 pitches before the rock pitch. The climb was much easier than the descent. The N Ridge of Thompson proved to be much more interesting proposition, if you go down this way, follow the ridge way out till you see easier ground. We didn't and found ourselfes in tough ground. 3 hours up, 5 hours down. Great climbing, great gully, my hat's off to you Mr. Moynier to solo this on first ascent.