Mount Thompson Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 24

Deb - Jul 29, 2016 10:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2016

North Ridge  Sucess!

Jim and I tagged Ski Mtners Pk then took on the north ridge, finding it to be a ton of fun on pretty stable stone. Terrific views from building block summit. Descended just in time for thunderstorm.


bechtt - Aug 24, 2013 11:15 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013

Grand Loop  Sucess!

Day 3 of the alt Sierra Challenge 2013. While the hard core Challenge nuts crossed the crest at Echo Col and met bad weather on the Black Divide, seven of us (Laura, Joan, Tommey, Carol, Jeff, Jim, and I) headed for Ski Mountaineers peak first followed by Mt Thompson via its tricky but highly satisfying north ridge. Once on top, Tommey continued on to Pt Powell while the others returned the way they came. I continued the grand loop by dropping down Thompson's horrible SE chute and climbing the only weakness (a class 2 chute) on Mt Gilbert's west side. Bypassing the summit due to bad weather (and having climbed it before), I climbed over Mt Johnson (with thunderstorms both north and south of me) before returning via the Treasure Lakes basin. Pictures & Story


mrchad9 - Jun 18, 2013 4:56 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2013

Southwest Face  Sucess!

Really enjoyed this day overall, in part due to visiting the three summits of Mount Powell in the morning. Then over to Mount Thompson after barely dropping into the basin to the west. Splendid views and weather all day, and had Sunset Lake all to myself the night before.


tdoughty - May 19, 2013 7:34 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 1987

In the distant past  Sucess!

With P. Dowdy: Up and down the Harrington while the wifes battled moths back in the cabin


dshoshone - Sep 25, 2012 12:07 pm Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2012

From Sabrina  Sucess!

Made the up and down slog.. then went on to Powell


Darren9 - May 28, 2012 2:01 am Date Climbed: May 27, 2012

Harrington early season  Sucess!

SMG basecamped in the Thompson Gilbert basin late May and our first climb upon reaching camp was the Harrington, accomplished with six climbers in firm early season conditions, downclimbing on the descent.


seano - Feb 4, 2012 2:09 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2011

Harrington Couloir  Sucess!

A cold, wet powder-fest, where I was hoping for neve or ice. Trip report.


PrestonRhea - Sep 16, 2011 2:30 am Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2011

Ice  Sucess!

Soloed the NW Face I am guessing, left of Moynier Couloir. Found mostly fresh snow on rock with a couple good bands of ice in the middle and at the top.

Downclimbed Harrington Couloir, soloed up the Smrz Couloir, then downclimbed Knutson Couloir.

All in all took about 4.5 hours.

tb00957 - Sep 7, 2010 12:52 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2010

south side  Sucess!



bcd - May 14, 2010 10:34 pm Date Climbed: May 14, 2010

thompson  Sucess!

up and down the "Non Moynier" couloir, which is a ribbon of snow just left of the Moynier.


soslaw - Oct 21, 2009 5:22 pm Date Climbed: Oct 8, 2005

Moynier Couloir  Sucess!

Moynier couloir (to the climber's far right sometimes referred to as the north couloir). It had snowed over night covering the couloir's alpine ice with fresh snow. The chock stone covered with fresh snow made this pitch live up to its crux rep. Low clouds and a fresh dusting of the surrounding peaks made for great vistas on top. Because of the fresh snow we did not descend the Thompson ridge, but rapped the Knutsen couloir.


physics - Jul 29, 2008 4:58 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2008

Route Climbed: Moynier Couloir Date Climbed: July 27, 2008  Sucess!

A good day out w/ Tim from USC; couloir was melting out up top; we will never go near the Thompson ridge again - that place is a death trap.

Brad Mastros

Brad Mastros - Jun 29, 2008 1:00 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2008

Moynier Couloir  Sucess!

Miguel Forjan and I climbed the Moynier Couloir in great conditions. One of the
best sierra climbs I have done, steep ice and some mixed climbing.


MichaelJ - Mar 20, 2006 8:48 pm Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2005

Harrington Couloir  Sucess!

Easy neve climb for most of the way with patches of ice. Last pitch was the crux: several inches of snow covering steep brittle ice, both of which I unfortunately sent down on the party below. Bit of a hike to the summit but a great day, despite the ensuing rap epic detailed in my TR.


PellucidWombat - Dec 16, 2005 9:45 pm

Route Climbed: September 25th, 2005 Date Climbed: Harrington Couloir  Sucess!

fun climb, good friends, and sunny weather. What more could one ask for?!


soslaw - Oct 10, 2005 12:23 pm Date Climbed: Oct 6, 2005

Route Climbed: Harrington Couloir

Climbed with Peter Doucette. Ascent was via the Harrington couloir was a straight forward hard neve and alpine ice climb followed by a descent of the Knutsen couloir.


awagher - Oct 3, 2005 1:50 pm

Route Climbed: Harrington Couloir Date Climbed: sept 25th, 2005

Climbed the route by soloing and simulclimbing with 3 on the rope. Long day out. 5 man rap stations took hours to get down. Great fun though. Did not summit. My ankle was killing me. Got back to the car around 11:pm.

Matt K

Matt K - Sep 28, 2005 4:48 pm

Route Climbed: Harrington Couloir Date Climbed: Sept. 25th, 2005  Sucess!

Simul-climbed with forjan and awagher on a beautiful day. Also on the route were MichaelJ and Pellucidwombat. The 5 of us rapped down together, which was a BAD idea. 5 raps with 5 people took 5 hours.


asmrz - Apr 17, 2005 3:07 am

Route Climbed: Central (Smrz) Couloir Date Climbed: Mid 90s

Sometimes in mid to late nineties (96?) Gerry Cox invited me to climb the central couloir on Mt.Thompson. RJ Secor told Gerry that the central Couloir on the North face of Thompson was not climbed so Gerry told me, let''s go have a look at it. ( The couloir was first climbed in 1990 by John Moynier and Scott Andrews, we learned later). When we reached the Thompson Glacier, Gerry came down with terrible flu so I decided to have a look at the gully myself. I climbed the gully and the rock section in the middle (5.6?) and managed to get up it in about 2.5 hours. The problem was that the Thompson North Ridge descent with fresh snow on it looked anything but 3rd class. I didn't think I could down climb this so after some introspection I downclimbed the Harrington Couloir. Exciting...Gerry saw me coming down that gully and thought I was totally nuts, but he didn't know what the Thompson descent looked like.. Some years later, in his Second Edition, RJ Secor named the couloir after me, one of the honors I will never get over. Imagine to have your name on anything in the Sierra Nevada? Thanks Robert.


asmrz - Apr 17, 2005 2:49 am

Route Climbed: Moynier Couloir Date Climbed: October 01, 2000  Sucess!

Michael Gordon and I climbed the Moynier Couloir on good and solid alpine ice in October 2000. I found this gully to be as good (and steep) as the legendary Mendel Couloir Right with the short rock section even harder than Mendel. We soloed the first 4-5 pitches and roped about 2 pitches before the rock pitch. The climb was much easier than the descent. The N Ridge of Thompson proved to be much more interesting proposition, if you go down this way, follow the ridge way out till you see easier ground. We didn't and found ourselfes in tough ground. 3 hours up, 5 hours down. Great climbing, great gully, my hat's off to you Mr. Moynier to solo this on first ascent.

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