Mount Tyndall Climber's Log

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Diesel - Aug 29, 2020 9:35 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2020

North Rib  Sucess!

Day hike from Shepherd Pass Trail Head. A big shout to those who built and maintain this trail to Shepherd Pass. It is not the easiest trail to hike on, but it is in good shape. I hope same people will pay attention to the Red Lake trail. As far as summiting Tyndall, the North Rib has nothing to qualify it as class 3. More like class 2 scramble. As far as finding the "gate", I had absolutely no issue going right to it: it is visible from most of the ascent, especially when getting close to it. The summit block though is not an easy rock to stand on. Long hike (27 miles) and long day (14:30 hours - 4:30 AM to 7:00 PM)


wmolland - Aug 21, 2020 9:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2020

North rib  Sucess!

A nice romp up the north rib. Got back to camp as the skies opened.


Fletch - Oct 3, 2019 8:49 am Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2019

east rib  Sucess!

awesome day


ratz - Sep 26, 2019 7:10 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2018

Tyndall August 2018  Sucess!

Summitted in three day backpacking trip with my girlfriend. Camped at Anvil. It was a great campspot with lots of tree cover and a lot of spots, but there was an enormous group there. They must have ignored permits, there were like 30 of them.

Day 2, we summited via the North Rib. After summitting, we traversed the ridge over to the class 2 northwest ridge to go down.
The northwest ridge, I will admit is not that steep, but the rocks are smaller and more like talus most the way, it didn't feel very solid, and the ridge you cross to get from the summit to the northwest ridge is a little sketchy... especially if you are looking for an easy way down for those who are not comfortable with class 3+... I'd just be careful here.


Guilty - Sep 11, 2019 12:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2019

From Williamson and back to Anvil  Sucess!

Long 10 hour day for both summits of Williamson and Tyndall. Stop at one of the glacier lakes for a quick dip in. Very refreshing for the second climb and get back to Anvil Camp.


triyoda - Sep 10, 2019 8:22 pm Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2018

CA Class 3

If Shepard pass wasn't enough of a ball buster, this was pretty challenging for Class 3.


socalpeakbagger - Sep 23, 2018 9:54 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2018

North Rib  Sucess!

Stick to the spine, if you go too far to the right there are no good holds and the rock is smooth and slippery. The spine has good holds all the way to the top. Once I neared the top I went in from one notch to the right of the "gate" but not an issue because once on the ridge it is simple boulder hopping...the other side is a nice gradual slope. I took the "gate" down and wondered how I had missed it...


mtnpanda - Jul 2, 2018 11:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2018

Solo // North Rib took my red/grey OR jacket as summit sacrifice  Sucess!

Ascended/descended via the North Rib. On the way up, I stayed left until 300' below the ridge, and then traversed right onto the slabs. Ended up gaining the ridge via the *right* notch, not the left - I didn't find it very exposed, definitely not 5th class. Descended on the slabs on climber's right for a smooth walk down. Sticky rubber helps a lot here.

Per the heading, I also lost my lucky red OR windshell somewhere along the rib/summit ridge. Jacket was stuffed into its own pocket, so it'll appear grey and rectangular. If you find it, I'll be super grateful - please PM me for return deets + postage + [your favorite baked goodies].

[UPDATE - my jacket has been found! Muchos gracias to SP user 0ddball.]

Ben FR - Feb 6, 2018 10:50 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2017

NW Rib

This was a bit of a heartbreak for me. I attempted to solo day hike Tyndall's NW Rib from Owens Valley via Shepherd's Pass and failed. Hit the trailhead at 2:55am, made it to the pass by 7:30am. Got to the base of the rib and made my way up the class 3 rib. At ~13,400' I encountered a pretty exposed slabby section that made me uncomfortable. Looking up toward the crest of the rib I noticed a large icy section that I heard was the crux of the route. Given my discomfort with the slabs at ~13,400' I decided to call it quits. ~24.5 miles and 11hr27 min (car to car) for a failed attempt. All this being said it was a great day out in the mountains.


wdimpfl - Dec 22, 2017 5:45 am Date Climbed: Feb 15, 1970

Winter Ascent  Sucess!

Date uncertain. Several climbers, including Louis Reichardt, Jim Morrisy, Kathy Licking, and women climbers that would later be on the first all women's ascent of the Denali West Buttress route, hiked up the trail to camp in the snow east of Shepards pass. The next day we climbed the snow on the north face of Mt. Tyndall. The summit register indicated that there had been a previous winter ascent. On descent one of the women, Dana, lost her footing and fell from high on the north face to the snowfield below the face. She was later evacuated by helicopter.

utclimber - Aug 17, 2017 10:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2017

Williamson/Tyndall dayhike  Sucess!

Started at Shepherd pass trailhead a little after 2am. First climbed Williamson and then Tyndall on the return towards Shepherd pass. Back to the car around 9pm.


Harvest - Aug 15, 2017 3:55 am Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2016

NW Rib   Sucess!

Solo climb from the JMT. Class 3.

ljwoodw - Jul 10, 2017 6:10 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2017

North Rib from Shepherd Pass  Sucess!

Straightforward route-finding and quality rock. Enjoyed taking every opportunity to scamper up slabs instead of hopping over talus. Very easy day from Shepherd Pass.


dpsiebert - Sep 5, 2016 11:59 pm

North Rib  Sucess!

Long dayhike with the Sierra Challenge folks.

Super Dave

Super Dave - Sep 3, 2016 9:37 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2016

North Rib  Sucess!

The north rib was the most enjoyable route we climbed during a 5 day trip with Boisedoc. Really fun scramble. Trip Report


boisedoc - Aug 30, 2016 12:27 am Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2016

north rib  Sucess!

after getting turned back on the Northwest ridge 16 years ago due to route finding issues, I was able to get back to summit this peak. The north rib is MUCH more straightforward than the northwest ridge. Overall a fun route that is class 3 at worst (and probably class 2 by Sierra standards). Good times with SuperDave.


pBerg - Aug 10, 2016 4:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2015

North Rib  Sucess!

Trip report and GPX file here:


Romain - Jul 15, 2016 2:07 am Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2010

North rib  Sucess!

With R. Renteria from camp at Shepherd Pass. Solid route, quick climb.


SchwartzOn - Jul 15, 2016 12:52 am Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2016

Second North Rib Traverse  Sucess!

On a fourteener tour, and after cutting my teeth on Williamson, thought I'd make quick work of Tyndall. I climbed up the cracks and ledges system of the Second Rib, and then traversed just under the ridge for 500m until the notch leading to the summit plateau. Great climbing, it just gets harder the farther towards the nose you are, and it would be great to do this one again.


gordonye - Jul 8, 2016 2:46 am Date Climbed: May 24, 2015

Snowy attempt

Unsuccessful attempt with Mike Chen - snow was 1-2 ft thick which made it treacherous to climb the steeper parts

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