There is little to recommend this peak, save its proximity to Mt. Haeckel and perhaps its views. The rock that composes its various faces is unsettled at best and positively rotten at worst (especially the southeast side). The summit block is a redeeming feature. It is easy class 4 and not terribly exposed.
I liked the traverse and the class 3 going to the summit of Wallace. And I really liked the summit block. But going down the East slope was one of my most miserable experiences. From the summit to Wallace Col is OK, solid rock, good descending. but after that, ouch! I've never seen so much loose rocks and scree ever. Every step created an avalanche. Good thing I was alone. And to think there are actually people going up this slope. Insane. I disliked every single step going down, from the summit to Sailor Lake. After that, back to Sabrina was just mindless hiking.
with Rico from bivy at Moonlight Lk. Almost climbed Haeckel by mistake! Met Ting. 8.5h day.
group of 4. also bagged Mount Haeckel.
Summit block was reminiscent of Bear Creek Spire or Center Peak. Felt like class 4 to us. The previous, (flatter) summit block is no longer present.
With Mike B.
Team of eight from camp at Echo Lake
Nice campsite at HP Lake but lots of mosquito's kept us in the tent.
Wonderful day of less smoke and a little breeze. Fun scramble except getting down from Wallace Col - YUK!
Dayhike from Lake Sabrina. Traversed over from Haeckel just below the ridge which was quick and easy.
The weather held out long enough for a summit (and Mt Haeckel) and successful return.
Very cool summit block. TR at http://www.anderson.ucla.edu/faculty_pages/romain.wacziarg/climbing/EvolutionJune2014.html
Day 3 of SC13. Four of us did Haeckel & Wallace. Awesome summit block, too bad a thunderstorm moved in right when we got to the summit.
27 hour c2c climb of Evolution Traverse. Traverse from Haeckel is the easiest section of Evo. The shortest too.
Climbed via the standard route, full of scree, and then scrambled on to the top of the ridge. Didn't find the summit register... or the summit block! I later checked out the photos available on the web and apparently sat on top of the narrow "lower summit block", that can also be seen on one of Bob Burd's pictures. The true summit that used to be visible in older pictures seems not to be there: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sre7xHuSGFEobHEOpGxU0q17NxE0dV_BtZ3NG9TXI_g?feat=directlink.
Has the original summit block went down the East side with the register?
With Dunbar Carpenter. Unpleasantly slide-y ascent up to col; fun scrambling on big blocks up to the top.
Climbed in combination with Haeckel. Stuck to the ridge after getting tired of the loose crap for more enjoyable class 3. Summit block was fun, and a nice little surprise.
1000' of crappy, loose, steep, class 2/3 climbing with a with a fun summit block. Plenty of boulder hopping on approach too. It would probably be a more pleasant climb in good snow year.
solitude, perfect weather, good snow (at least before 10am)
ski trip from camp at Sailor Lake with the last source of running water, pictures at http://www.pbase.com/oliverka/mt_wallace
straightforward scramble, traverse from Haeckel for a day hike.