We set a fixed line for the sketchy part. I was glad to have it as the fall is substantial and the holds, while plentiful, can be questionable. Rappelled on the way down, fun climb.
Real fun climb with short approach. Belayed a short bit then scrambled.
Not much in the way of mosquitoes cept at twilight and early morning. Wildflowers were gorgeous.
First climbed the North Ridge back in 1971. Over the next three decades climbed West Face, King Rat, Chimney of Space, South Face, South Face Dihedral, Southeast Spur and East Buttress.
Over the years have bivied (intentionally )on top four times - neat spot.
This mountain kicked our butts the first time. We came from the southern Lava fields for the fun of it and tried the south wall, but we didn't have enough pro, so we backed around and ran out of time looking for the north route. This time we climbed right up it from the north with no problem.
Took a friend up. Had an awesome time, made it back down to catch a catamaran ride back to camp.
Dian, John, and I had the mountain to ourselves all day...
Perfect weather, although a bit windy at the notch as well as the first pitch. I ended up carrying the rope on the rappel because it was impossible to throw. Mosquitoes were bad at the trailhead to the ridge but nonexistent from the ridge to the summit. We took the screeway back which had a couple of snow traverses, but still much better than descending the ridge.
First time leading this climb...
No snow on the ascent.
I had read (almost) everything I could on Mt. Washington before my trip (except this page). The weather was nice, but clouds moved in as we hit the summit block (it was windy and cold when the clouds moved in). Anyway, I didn't read enough and poor visibility didn't help, but went the first (wrong) left leaning ramp. Don't take the ramp that takes off from the saddle (unless you like poor protection and dangerous exposure). This leads to a bulge that you must go over with questionable protection. The first protection was a double sling clove hitch on a fairly decent horn. There was no other possible protection after this. Had to climb rotten stuff up and over with no more pro. I chose to move left for a second, much more questionable horn, which I slung with a girth hitch. This sent you up a scree/rubble/rock shoot with 1500' exposure to the rappel rock. As mentioned below NOT recommended! Unfortunately, I went up a bit too far before realizing no one in their right mind would climb this and then had no intentions of down climbing that garbage (especially with the "Stellar" protection). Of course weather cleared on summit and it became pretty obvious we had taken the wrong route. I would avoid this route like the plague.
Solo up and rapped down. Good times.
Climbed this with Sally and a bunch of my original Oregon climbing buddies. Went up a second time a couple years later. A fun mtn.
Finally getting around to entering all my old summits...did this one over a year ago, fun climb with my climbing partner Scott C. Very windy day, but overall lots of fun. Didn't use the rope, but would use a 1/2 rope for the rappel next time.
What a beautiful day hike. Everything went perfect on way up. Nice and cool for Aug. Then on descent after rappelling main summit block my buddy peeled of a huge chunk of rock and took quite a spill. Fortunately he was wearing a helmet and the big chunks of rock missed him and he didn't tumble down the next cliff band. I then took a smaller spill and bashed myself up all over. Gotta love Cascade rock!
I have done a good amount of semi technical climbing although mostly on snow, this was my first "technical" rock peak. Didn't turn out to be technical for me, free climbed the fifth class pitches and setup top-rope belays for the other person I was with who was less comfortable. Good experience, fun mountain.
Got the flu saturday, but during the night I thought my fever broke. Woke at 5:00 at Big Lake feeling much better.
Large group, but after going around the wrong trail near some lakes (Hutch's?) lost an hour and a half with no distance gained. Most of the party bailed and went back to camp for some sailing, a friend and my dad bushwacked to the PCT.
Due to illness, very slow going on the climber's trail. Summited at 11:25 from the chimney a little to the west. Roped up for a pitch after the chimney this time, and rapped down the same part. Saw Moni and Fred in the log book, and someone with my dad's name (Jim Prichard, anyone?).
Exhausted as we got sight of Big Lake at 2:45. Flagged down our friends and sailed back to camp.
Headed East around all the pillars on the North ridge to a horribly sketchy loose gully that comes up facing southwest into the main North face...dislodged a giant rock that cut my rope almost in half, and just missed my partner. Do Not recommend this route, definitely stay west of the pillars...good adventure though, but damn...close one.
Finally climbed this one after all these years, with Moni and Fred Spicker.
Made summit with Chemeketans out of Salem, Oregon. Great climb. This mountain is so beautiful. Great views.
I'd been up to the summit block when I was much younger – and no further.
So when my friends said they wanted to climb Washington that day (from Sisters, it's a quick trip) I was a little skeptical.
We made it to the block late (4:30) and were advised to not go further, since roping up makes the trip much longer. We heeded the advice, but decided to do a little free climbing anyway. Much to our surprise, we got quite far up the gulley with no real need for roping up, so we set a 30 minute ultimatum and decided to go as far as we could manage. I stayed behind with the dog (I would not have brought a dog, and definitely not this far) while my friends summited in 8 minutes. We had time for me and a friend to go up and we all made it down before our 30 minute restriction.
Surprised, but next time I'll bring rope.
Climbed with Moni and Bob Bolton. Great weather - great day out.
With Bob Bolton and Fred. Fine views and fun climb.