I followed this very same route in September, 1965, while driving from Salt Lake City to Berkeley, California, where I started graduate school in geography. The trail to the top was crowded with hikers and I felt no exclusiveness from reaching the slatey summit except to realize that I had reached to highest point in the lower forty-eight.
Dayhiked on snowshoes from road closure. Very good snow conditions on upper mountain. Up first chute from notch, traversed north face on way down. North Fork easy snow hike with 0 brush. Easier to climb this time of year than summer.
Due to the snow conditions we only reached the Lower Boy Scout camp the first day and in very deep powder snowshoed to Upper Boyscout the next, knowing we wont make the summit. When the storm rolled in the 2nd nite, we surrendered and head back. Nice trip though!!
A lovely climb in a party of 3. The final chute was in good condition, although the runout and party above kicking down ice blocks made it the scariest part of the route. The main couloir was super icy so the way down was a grinding exercise in steep crampon descent.
Climbed with Andre. An epic. Late October storm dumped a couple of feet of unconsolidated snow. Left LBSL at 7 a.m and reached base of Mountaineer's rte at 5 p.m. as sun was going down. Slog up a knee deep sugar snow filled coulior with strong gusting winds and spindrift made for a numbing climb to the notch where a mini epic was in the making as Andre had lost one of his crampons in the couloir. The climb up the first chute to the right of the notch over snow covered rock and now howling winds over an unknown rte added a little spice. Reached the summit at 2 a.m. in a raging wind. Made it to the hut to find 2 other climbers who had come up the Portal rte. Larry Amkraut was a life saver as he prepared food and water for us. Descended the portal as with only one crampon a descent of the Mountaineers rte was too sketchy for Andre and probably not recommended in any case. Had to hike back to LBSL to retrieve tent and gear.
A solo trip in near perfect conditions.At the notch by sunrise then up the first chute.Had the top all to myself.Thank you Dad for teaching me to be a Mountaineer .You are always in my heart.Love and miss you.
Great climb, beautiful conditions. We summited in 14hrs climbing time from Whitney store. Patrick Wang died trying to glissade off the top. BE CAREFULL people, it may not be Everest - but it is a real mountain.
This was an amazing peak. The views are incredible. When we got to the portal it was raining and cold and the guy in the store said it was supposed to rain for three days. We decided to give it a try anyway, so we hiked to Outpost camp and the rain stopped. Off for the summit at 5:00 AM. Still cold and the views were amazing when the clouds would occasionally clear. Passed a few people that had AMS symptoms on the switchbacks. We made really good time on the switchbacks, as we were acclimated. Reached the crest and the views were impressive. We made good time and after we reached the last window, we heard some thunder in the distance. Brandon decided to turn back and I took off running for the summit. Ran all the way to the top, passing several parties. When I reached the summit it was snowing, blowing and the visibility was almost zero. I was all alone on top and that was a great feeling. Snapped a few pics and ran all the way back to the crest. I was totally beat after that, but I saw Brandon on the switchbacks, so we met up and hiked down. This hike is amazing and I would recommend to anyone. (See trip report)
Man...we had heard of the high snowfalls and decided to go and check it out for ourselves. I had seen the photos posted from the earlier part in march 2005 and it did not look bad at all.
We got to the route and were faced with waist deep fresh snow, with avy danger all around us and decided to retreat and go back...we got to the bowl next to LBSL.
camera got stolen after.... long... LONG... hike.. something like 99 switchbacks...
Always fun, all routes worth doing. Climbed in spring ,summer and fall. Came down the trail once after planned bivy on summit...had fool's luck it happened to be the best night of the perseid meteor shower and crystal clear. East Face is truly a classic, east butt is a better rock climb and MR is a fun spring climb.
This is our second time on the mountain. This time we did not suffer through the sleep over at trail camp. We did the "day hike". Makes for a long day.
Backpacked to Bighorn park and climbed from there the next day. 99 switchbacks covered completely in snow.
Two day hike with friends from Ohio. Could not have asked for better weather in October, warm and sunny. Camped at Consultation Lake, great uncrowded site just before Trail Camp. The altitude hit me at 13, 500 ft. The remaining 1,000 ft. was a struggle.
The weather gods smiled on us this weekend - great climb!
What a great trip. I wish that I would have read this site before hand. We went without Rope, an Ice axe and crampons and regretted it (not that much, no injuries). We rented instep crampons thank God. Traversing the top section with those four small little spikes was intense.
This was the most fun trip that I've ever had.
Started at 4:30 PM camped at 12000 after hiking in the dark summited and got back to trailhead by 4:30PM
Great family outing. Highest summit for me.
I like this mountain alot but my favorite route thus far is starting with the SE buttress of Muir and then linking Whitney and Russel. Three bid 14ers in not so long of a day and not many people.