Miguel Carmona, Andy Fried and I hiked the trail from Whitney Portal to the summit in November of 1980. Early snow storm at the high camp had us dreaming, talking about future climbs and planning the next few years. This was THE FIRST TRIP of what turned out to be 22 years of sharing the same rope (so far) for Miguel and me. What a team!
Miguel Carmona and I climbed the East Face in full winter conditions in February 1983. I remember, that year was very heavy snow year, we were ski mountaineering in the Eastern Sierra till mid July. Miguel and I took 10 hours from Iceberg Lake (including the descent) to climb the route. This was our first technical winter climb together. Many years later, people told us we did the third (or fourth) winter ascent of the face. 1st WA John Mendenhall and a partner, 2nd WA Galen Rowell and a partner, go figure that one.
After spending a very cold night at the Trail Camp (temperatures well below freezing), we took off at 7:30am. Switchbacks were covered with ice and snow, but easily managed w/o crampons. We reached Trail Crest at 9:40am, and scrambled to the summit at 12:40pm. There were maybe 15 people on the summit that day. Day was cloudy but nevertheless beautiful. After spending close to 1 hour on the top and taking lots of pictures, we descended to the Trail Camp before 4pm. We are coming back next year to climb Mountaineering Route!!!
Still some snow on parts of the trail by late June. "Cable Crossing" above trail camp was built up badly with snow and ice. The build up was higher than the cables, which made it dangerous especially in the afternoon when the snow softened. Afternoon thunder shower on the hike down was exciting and a welcome break from the relentless intensity of the sun.
With Sven Feldmann, in semi-winter conditions - it snowed a couple of inches in the preceding night, adding to the snow and ice already on the trail. The bad weather discouraged hikers from showing up which means we could get permits and had the trail (almost) to ourselves. Also bagged Crooks Peak (on some accounts a California 14er) and soloed Mount Muir from the trail.The bad weather lifted as we reached the summit and gave way to a perfect day - beautiful.
You can find a full TR with photos on my webpage.
After climbing Muir we continued up the trail to Whitney. It was a bit smoky but still wonderful to be there. This was day 9 of our 10-day Kearsarge to Whitney Portal backpacking trip.
My second 14er. I did the route in 13 hours 45 mins, which included an attempt of Mt. Muir. Two down thirteen to go!
Me and three friends summited Mt. Whitney on a cold day. I actually wore my down jacket for the entire trip. We wore in-step crampons as 75% of the trail was covered in ice. It took us 8.5 hours round-trip because of the ice. Something to consider.
This was my 8th ascent of Whitney, 2nd via the East Face. Have done the tourist route 5 times, and the East Buttress (Sunshine-Peewee) once. Climbed the East Face with ScottyS in 10 hours, car to car. Fun day. On July 4, we did a daytrip of Muir, Whitney, Russell, and Carillon, about 12 hours car to car (SummitPost trip report). For more info on the East Face trip, read the SummitPost trip report.
7/6/07 Hiked the tourist trail with my 9-year-old son, camped at trail crest, summited and hiked out the next day. He was a trooper.
#9 March 16, 2008 via Mountaineers Route. Skied up to and partway up the Mountaineers Route via the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. Cramponed to the top, and then skied all the way back to the car. The road was not plowed all the way to the trailhead, so there was a bit of extra distance.
#10 Hiked up the tourist trail with my 10-year-old son and his 2 8-year-old brothers. 6 miles the first day, and 16 on the second.
Left the car when the sun came up. Went lightweight up the East Face with my friend Ian. Made great time until we had some problems. So much for the speed ascent. For me, after the summit, I went over and summited Mount Muir and then descended the Mountaineer's Route. At Iceburg Lake, I met up with my friend and we headed back to the car by nightfall.
Dayhiked up Whitney on 9/23/2002. Weather was perfect! Wasn't even windy on top. Having climbed Mount Langley the week before, I knew I just had to do Whitney. Reached the summit in 7 hours and returned in 5. This was less time than I thought it would take. It was however a little more strenuous than what I was expecting, but the challenge was quite rewarding. I'll probably do it again next year and hit Muir at the same time.
After summiting Langley the day before, we hiked into Iceberg Lake on the 6th of October. Two storms the week before had filled the couloir with a fair bit of snow. I made the summit the next day on my 33rd birthday in two hours and forty-five minutes from Iceberg Lake. At times I was postholing up to mid- thigh in the couloir. I was the only person on the summit when I arrived at 7:45 AM and was the first to sign the register for the 7th of October.
Hike up the Mule Trail on Labor Day 2001 and had a blast. Then we hiked up the Mountaineers Route in April and was blown away. The MR was excellent! This was my first real mountaineering trip and I am hooked. I was glad to finally use my ice axe and crampons. The coulier was pretty tough, steep. Camped at Upper Boys Scout lake and reached the within 50 vertical feet of the summit. Unfortunately out trip leader made us turn back due to the wether and time constraints. Oh well, been to top already anyways I will just have to hit again when I go to Mt. Muir and Russel. Awesome climb, highly recomended
Longer, harder than anticipated. Got in some skiing on the way down. Snowy and foggy all three days. Great firm snow in the gully and 10 foot visiblity at the top. What's there to see up there anyway? : ( First two of five to summit that day.
First try via the Mountaineer's route: September 29, 2002. My partner Vladimir Ulyashin did the climb and reached the summit. The previous day there was a short blizzard which made the route icy, and I decided against trying it myself. Vlad said the crux part above the couloir was exceedingly difficult as he was without rope, ice axe, or crampons.
On the way down below Lower Boyscout Lake it was pitch dark and we tried to hike down to car with headlamps, but got lost around the Ebersbacher ledges. After searching around for 3 hours we gave up and camped the night back at the lake. In the morning of Sept. 30th we finally figured out how to come down.
Second try via East Face route: August 28, 2004. Made it to summit with Dirk Summers (Diggler). We roped up for 3 pitches and scrambled the other pitches, up to easy class 5. Descended via Mountaineer's route, where in the lower gully we were pelted with rock fall for 2 minutes from the East Buttress. Luckily we weren't hurt. This was my first major technical climb and I was glad it was as successful as could be.
Nice hike on the way up, windy at the top, a little snow on the way down as I passed Trail Crest. 11 hours car to car (a lot slower than intended).
Climbed in a day w/bearbnz. Started at the Portal at 0415 after our typical 5hr drive and 5hr sleep. Summited at 1105 after only 4 roped pitches using our 100' length of 8.8mm and "a handful of stoppers". My first multipitch mountain, and Barry's 8th time to summit. Sauntered down the Mountaineers', arriving at the car at 1445. Summit conditions? "Tourist Extravaganza!"
Climbed this excellent route with Rik Hafeman and his boss ( his bosses 1st climb ever ). A great route, but we got lost on the way down and wound up descending ice on the North Face and going over the Whitney - Russell col. Oh well, you can't plan adventure.
Randy and Jerry Isbell (brothers), summited Mt. Whitney on 9-11 at 12:45 PM. We started our hike at 2:00 AM, spent one hour on the summit, and arrived back at our vehicle at 8:00 PM. We had beautiful weather the whole day, and had a great time... but that last 6 miles is a Death March!!! . . . . . . . . . .
Troop 883 completed a 60 mile segment of the Muir Trail going over Whitney. Greg , Bruce , Russ adult leaders . Shea , Brian , and Brandon. Long day over the top with our packs. Great Views!