This was the tenth summit of my CA 14er speed climbing tour! Check out the trip report here.
Climbed up from Upper Boy Scout Lake to celebrate the New Year right! Took a video of the ascent. Not to much snow this year, I didn't use crampons, only a ice axe. But, very, very cold.
I also did this mountain in July 1987, 1989, and 1995.
Did a single day car-to-car traverse of Muir, Whitney, and Russell -- the three 14ers in the area. The day before, it had rained and then snowed an inch or so at the higher elevations. This made for some icy Class 3 climbing to the top of Muir. After Muir, I continued over to Whitney, and arrived on top at about 7:30 am. Then I headed down the North Face of the Whitney. The North Face is supposed to be Class 2/3 climbing, but because all of the gullies were iced up (and I didn't have an ice-axe or crampons with me), I had to follow a Class 4/5 ridge down. After a while it became too icy there too, so I traversed over to the Mountaineer's Route and went down that for a while (very easy). Near the bottom of the Mountaineer's Route, I traversed north to the Whitney-Russell pass. Over the pass I went, then up eternal scree on the South Face of Russell to a short section of Class 3 rock. This brought me to Russell's summit ridge. Thunderstorms were quickly rolling in, so I surfed back down the South Face and back over the Whitney-Russell Pass. Then I began the HORRENDOUS descent along the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek in the pouring rain. I got back to my car at 2:30pm, giving me a car-to-car time of 11 hours. Don't ask me if I had a Whitney Zone Permit ;-)
Soloed the mountaineer's route. Pretty straightforward climb but very impressive views. Watch for ice on the rocks beyond the notch late in the season.
We started on the 12th at 7am reach high camp at 11:23, set up camp took a nap. Left for summit at 6am switchbacks were still snowed in for the most part, so we climbed up the snow shoot to trail crest 13,777 ft. We summited at 9:30 am stayed on top for about a half hr, 23 degrees at the top, and windy, headed back at 10:07 and glissaded down the snow shoot we came up. We were back at high camp at 12 noon. packed up camp and head for the portals. Total trip took 11 hrs 34 min. You save alot of time going up the snow shoot. Snow was pretty icy at 6 am make sure you use crampons.
Made the summit in about six hours via the trail. Total round trip in under 11 hours. We spent one night a 5000 feet at the Lone Pine Campground, did a day hike to Lone Pine Lake for acclimitization the next day and on the next morning made a 4:00 AM departure for the summit. Strenous 21 mile round trip hike.
I first climbed Whitney with my dad at age 16 in 1963. We camped part way up, and got an early start because we had to hike all the way up and out on summit day. I was sicker than a dog on the summit. And I was dead tired back at the car. For the '92 climb we started very early from Whitney Portal and did the round trip, getting back in mid-afternoon. I had started running two years before, so I felt great on the summit. Instead of being totally wasted back at the car, I jogged to the store to buy the "I hiked the big one in one day" T-shirt, or whatever it says. Running is by far the best thing I ever did for myself. I HIGHLY recommend it! One benefit is that I no longer feel sick at elevation.
This was my first time climbing the mountain. There was still quite abit of snow, but no crampons were needed. Had a great time. I plan on going again in 2001, if I am lucky enough to draw a permit.
I've climbed the Mountaineers route twice and the normal route one time.