Fun day out with M.T.S, just got back to the car, when a huge thunderstorm hit, good timing.
I think Kane makes way too big of a deal about this route. It's class three for the most part, with a couple bouldery moves to get on the ridge down low below the scree ledge. The descent to the Plain of Six Glaciers, on the other hand, is a whole 'nother story. I found Kane's description baffling. I could see that all of the gullies I looked down eventually cliffed out sooner or later. I kept jumping gullies west, thinking I would find one that went clear to the bottom. No such luck. Lots of down climbing and route finding all the way down. It just got worse at treeline--the cliffs got bigger and closer together. Lots of class three and class four meadows in the last 1,000 feet! This descent is way harder than the scramble over from Niblock. But it did make for an interesting exercise. And you can't complain about the views.
Solo climb after Mt Niblock from Chateau Lake Louise where my wife enjoyed a sunny lunch on the patio
I hit these peaks in perfect conditions, which made the traverse easier than expected. The difficulty was routefinding on the descent. Instead of retracing my steps, I climbed over the mountain and down towards the Plain of Six Glaciers. It took a lot of care to keep away from technical terrain.
Terrible (but atmospheric) weather day with snowstorms and intense lightning. Traversed over from Niblock to scramble Whyte. No views from Whyte due to whiteout conditions. There are a lot of ways up this peak, pick your route carefully.
The crux on Whyte can be multiple. There are some rappel stations, therefore, I advise taking a short rope. This was the summer of the 2003 fires. Most photos were not worth posting. However, I do have a very cool shot of the Mitre, posing like an active volcano. Really it was just a fire behind Mitre that caused the effect. I will post it on the Mitre page if and when I get it climbed. I like this traverse, if just visiting, a good scramble to include amongst your climbs. If the scramble is too lame, do the Alpine Route up the east ridge of Whyte. It looks nice and I hear the rock is better than most in the area. Cheers!