Great route. Don't try to glissade the chute in late summer though folks!
Climbed solo from Shepard's Pass - very good climb.
With my brother , Fritz, via Shepherd Pass, and base camp between Williamson and Tyndall. Met some guys on the peak we had met on Mt. Langley previous labor day. Unfortunately, they knocked down a rock that went zooming down the middle of the chute while we were descending. They yelled and I got out of the way just in time to see it zipping by, then I had to yell down at my brother 3-4 times before he heard me, since he was so far ahead of me. Whew! This was a really memorable mountain.
Fun chimney; we got an early start to avoid the unsettled weather; summitted with Balaji, Tom, Sundhi, and K-Balls.
Arnie Coleman and I summited on July 15th via the usual slog across Williamson Bowl from the upper lake above Shepherd Pass, our friend Chip made it up to the chimney at the top of the chute. The chute was much more unstable than expected, and we mostly stuck to climbing on the better rock on the right side of the chute. The chimney, while posing no real problems, got the heart racing at 14,000 ft (are you guys sure that's not Class 4, one slip and you're . . . ). Both Arnie and I squeezed under the chockstone with day-packs on.
We looked for the summit register, even though it had been previously noted that it was missing. It appears that people have been taking out their frustration on the USGS Summit Marker, because the thing is really beat up. The climb down was uneventful, but makes your quads scream the next morning.
We tried Mt. Tyndall the next day, but only got half way up due to apathy and closing weather. We're going to have to go back up Shepherd Pass, damn. Also, how anyone could camp at Anvil Camp with all those mosquitos is beyond me (we camped above the Pothole . . . nice).
We hiked out on Saturday, July 17th, just ahead of a huge super-cell thunder storm that enveloped the eastern sierra from Cottonwood Lakes to the Palisades and knocked the power out in Lone Pine.
I hope grandpa made it out OK.
Very LONG approach! Was a tough one for me. Got sick due to altitude, but somehow suffered through the headache. Chimney near top was the most fun part. Very little snow on the entire route. Mountaineer's route on Mt. Sill (did it last year) was more fun I thought - start at about 6000ft, 8 mile hike in to camp at 12K feet, then a class 3-4 route to the summit, some glissading on the way down.
Wow, what an epic workout. Today I climbed Mt. Williamson in a day trip. My GPS said that Shepherd Pass trail (from trailhead to entry to Sequoia National Park) is 10.29 miles.
Just below Shepherd Pass is some snow to cross in a steep shoot. There are foot steps dug in and I crossed without crampons or poles.
Nearer the summit, there is snow in a shoot about .2 below the class 3. Rocks on the right of the snow may be used to go around it. I imagine the snow is there year around.
Facing the class 3 "cliff", I took the steep class 3 "crack" on the left (without a rope, the way to the right seemed unsafe). I pulled up on rocks in the cracks and slipped under the rock near the top. Although it seemed pretty scary as I started, it turned out to be done in a few minutes with no fear. I also came down the same way and there was no problem-just one step at a time.. wedging with hands, arms, shoulders and hips and gripping and there were no problems.
See my very detailed Trip Report for this climb:
"West Face of Mt. Williamson in a day trip from Shepherd Pass Trailhead"
Got as far as the black water marks on the 11th before turning around with some very angry feet, just missing out on my Tyndall-Barnard-Trojan-Williamson in a day traverse from the pass. Came back the next morning and made the top in 2:50 from Shepherds pass. Still no register to be found.
Climbed this route with Martin Rolph. Descended the West Face and back to our Bivy in Williamson Bowl in 12.5 hours. This route is rated 5.4, but as Martin stated below, mostly class 3/4 with a few Class 5 moves along the way.
I found the arete wanted to keep leading me to easier terrain on it's east side. However, I tried to stay true to the arete whenever possible for a more challenging climb.
When first arriving at the West Horn and looking at the descent, I had to overcome the urge to wet myself. But after a short down climb and one rapel, Martin and myself found that R. J. Secor's descent beta is very accurate and that the descent off the West Horn is relativly safe.
Wow!! After choosing the start incorrectly and climbing / retreating a couple of pitches on the North face, Etsuko and I finally found the route and climbed it solo until we reached the notch between East and West Horns barely alive and completely exhausted. Fortunately we were able to find a small ledge on the North Arete, about 100' below the notch, where we spent the night. After a super cold night (our space blankets ripped and we did not have sleeping bags), we finished the route up West Horn and then traversed the NE ridge to the summit plateau. Summited at 2pm on Sunday and retreated via West Face back into Williamson Bowl. Packed out and went back to the trailhead the same day. Arrived to the parking lot at 1am completely wasted. What a climb!!
Climbed the Long Twisting Rib on a 3 day trip with Sam Mills, Misha, & Etsuko. We hauled rock climbing gear all the way but never felt the need to pull it out of the pack. The climbing was mostly class 4 with maybe a few short 5.easy moves. Great trip!
Climbed the West Face route on the 4th of July. Weather was great. Route was tedious. The Williamson bowl didn't seem as bad as I expected (at least on the way in). The chimney turned out to be easier than I expected and was the funnest part of the climb. I kinda wish the chimney was longer because it only took about 10 minutes to climb. It's a bit of a surprise when you reach the top of the steep chimney and step out onto the huge plateau. About a dozen climbers were gathered at the summit. I believe everyone who attempted the climb made it. Oh, and there's still no summit register.
Endless scree and then some snow - not the best of routes, but a beautiful view from the summit.
The snow was pretty scarce, but it did cover the important areas such as most of Williamson Bowl and most of the crappy scree in the West Face Chute. The 3rd class at the top was straightforward and free of snow, although there was a lot of ice in the bottom chimney that allowed some fun crampon front-pointing while I used my hands to steady myself.
Sadly I couldn't find the summit register! :-(
Only 3 more CA 14ers to go!
In 1976 the register was a stout book from the late 1920's. Lots of Norman Clyde entries!
This was truely a mountain of 'firsts' for me: My first solo summit, my first winter summit, my first fourteener, and my first experience using crampons. It had been a dry fall/winter with the snowline at about 12,000 feet. The weather was cold (as would be expected), but clear and nearly windless. What a great Christmas present!
I set off solo from the Shepherd Pass trailhead at 3:00 AM and arrived at SP at 7:20 AM. I first climbed Mount Tyndall on an easy line just to the right of the North Rib, mainly on slabs, then traversed left to the top of the rib and onto the summit ridge. I reached the summit at 9:40 AM and descended the same route. At the bottom of the rib, I turned right and descended into the Williamson Bowl. Boulder-hopping across the Bowl was not pleasurable. Beginning the West Face Route, I stayed slightly left of a/the black stain. To avoid the worst of the talus in the chute, I stayed left on more solid rock for about the first half and right for the second. I made it to the summit of Williamson at 2:55 PM. Since it was 15 July, I was probably the last to summit before the end of Williamson’s ‘regular’ climbing season. I returned to SP and then to the trailhead, arriving back at my car at 8:45PM. This trip started as an attempt at the CA 14ers record.
I heard someone "Hello" somewhere near me about 12:30 PM. I had crossed Williamson Bowl solo after summiting Mt. Tyndall at 8:00 AM, and was just beginning up the West Face Route. After proceeding a little farther, I saw a familiar figure above me - it was Tom Donnelly who, after summiting Mt. Tyndall just before me in the morning, had traversed the ridge SE from Tyndall, signing two additional registers including Mt. Versteeg along his way. We avoided the small amount of snow in the chute by climbing the easy ledges to the right as others have mentioned. Summited about 4:30 or so, took the obligatory photos including the nice view of Mt. Whitney in the south - and returned across the moraines and glacial debris that make up Williamson Bowl - arriving back at our camp above Shepherd Pass just at dark. It was a memorable 15-hour day with two 14'ers summited! JM.
Great climb! Solid rock on the right of the chute for the way up, soft stuff in the middle on the way down. One of the better views I've seen in the Sierra from the top. Though the approach is long w/ ups and downs and of course Williamson Bowl, I like it, it's part of the character of accessing the mt. Last year justinfw and I tagged along with snwburd to try it in a day. We made it to the black stain before turning around. I got a bit of heat exhaustion and AMS trekking back through W Bowl. This year I opted for a two day redemption and camped at Shepherds P. I reached the W summit from Shepherds P in 3 hrs 20 min, then made it from W summit to Tyndal summit via the North Rib in 2 hrs.
WOW! Great climb of a great peak for a great view.
Traversed across the infamous williamson bowl to the area fo the infamous black stains. Just head for the southeast corner of williamson bowl and from there the chute is plain to see. The chimney at the top of the chute was the best part of the climb. 14'er number six.