Standard West Face route on the mountain. Instead of the up/down/up/down of taking the trail from Symmes Creek to Shepherd Pass, we followed the creek. The thinking was that reduced mileage and no altitude loss would make up for lack of trail.
Starting up Shepherd Creek from Foothill Road, then Williamson Creek to the lakes. As one might expect, the route generally gave a choice of talus and scree contouring along the canyon, willow thickets alongside the creek, or walking in the stream itself. Water was fairly low and we did a combination of the three.
Ultimately the choice of following the creek was a lot more work than the trail. I returned to the lakes the next weekend and took only 2/3 the time that the creek route had taken.
Note: Date is approximate
Part of a 3-day backpack (2 nights at Anvil Camp).
Tough mountain to climb and not for the faint of heart. Williamson bowl is a beast to cross followed by the scree trail to get to the chute. Camped at Shepards Pass. Took me 8+hours to summit from there. Bailed on Tyndall the following day. No energy left. Appreciated being on top. Toughest climb to date.
Brutal slog up the West Face after the long trip across Williamson Bowl and hike up from Anvil Camp. Was totally spent after getting back to camp at the top of Shepherd Pass. Climbed Tyndall the next day.
Ascend is not so bad, but going down is a different story...
Headed out from Shepherd's Pass at 0400 in fairly heavy snow. Took around 4 hours (after getting turned around and unknowingly crossing a frozen lake) to get to the base of the west face. Solid climb up, chimney to the summit had a lot of snow and ice on it. Rappeled down a portion of it. Awesome climb, approach was a beast.
Great 4 day solo trip covering Will, Barnard, Trojan, and Tyndall. Camped in Williamson Bowl all three nights to avoid strong wind at the pass. Some snow- used crampons briefly in the chute- no ice axe though. Chimney was fun and weather on top was perfect!
2 day trip via George Creek. Slow but otherwise good.
Left Anvil at 4am, at pass at 5:45. Snow below pass was crusty but passable w/o axe or crampons. Some snow up high in gully but easily climbed around on climber's right.
Had a great Father's Day summitting Mount Williamson this past Sunday with climbing partners Bryan Bell, my son Travis, & joining Sean Kenney in the snow covered shoot on the way up. Warm, no wind, clear skies at the top. Just a great day !! Duck Soup ! Russ Thaw
Had great weather for our climb up the West Face. Camped at Sheperds Pass and had the whole area to ourselves. We had a bit of an epic as we took a right had turn about 500 feet before the end of the gully looking for the chimney. Ended up on some dicey 4th class stuff but we were able to downclimb and head back up the gully to the summit. Sweet views of Whitney, Russel and Tyndal.
Hard to top the weather we had yesterday. :)
Otherwise known as the Williamson bowl.
Took a chance on the weather and was rewarded with a outstanding weekend of climbing. 2 more 14er's and 2 new climbing partners. Thanks SJ and souloscrambler for a great trip!
click on the thumbnail for pics
from camp at lake below Tyndall's east face
This was a tough approach through the Williamson Bowl and up the West Face. Got off route starting too far South up the West face, this cost of a couple of hours. Snow was heavy through the upper section so we when to the ice and spikes. In addition anchored and belayed for safety. By the time we reached the summit it was almost 5 pm, but fortunately the weather was perfectly clear. Fantastic view!
We considered bivying in the summit bowl to enjoy the firework display in the town of Independence, but elected to return to camp at Shepherd’s pass. The only difficulty in the decent was dealing with the boulders in the Bowl after dark. Even with headlamps, tough to find the exact route out were able to view the fireworks in the Independence as we exited the bowl. This made for a long but very rewarding day. What a spectacular peak!
The Bowl was much harder then anticipated, and I was suffering from the altitude half way up. Still made the summit and dragged ass back to camp.
A long, painful day from Shepherd's Pass TH. Is there a less painful way to climb this?
Terrible bushwhacking on hike in. Summit day makes it well worth it.
so many attempts...
The old register book was still there from 1930. It's in the Bancroft Library now.