After summiting via the W face with Sebastian in '1(?) & attempting the route in March with Kris, Pavel, & Mark, finally came back to do this monster.
Unfortunately, alcohol (Whoa Nellie mango marg, rum, & beer) & lack of sleep (3 hrs) the night before, as well as unrelenting (read: energy-robbing) direct sunlight the whole day of the climb basically cost me my 24-hr route bid.
Regardless, absolutely awesome climb! Left truck in Owens Valley @ 5.31. While having knowledge of the route's intricacies up until the notch helped me to save some time, fatigue & dehydration counteracted that. By the time I reached the base of the E horn, the sun was starting to get a little low on the horizon. As I had no desire to attempt traversing the horns in the dark (& felt like shit anyway), I decided to bivy ~13,000' (at the base of the talus slope). After seeing the horns up close & personal, I concluded that this was the right decision.
Left camp next morn' at 5.42, summiting the E horn at 7.02 (saw a bighorn sheep en route- cool!!). Traversing the horns was 'interesting,' let's say :) 2 rap's from the E horn down (was more concerned with time than trying to find a weakness to downclimb- besides, had brought the rope so why not use it?). A spicy (I have a great guardian angel) downclimb got me down the W horn. True summit at 10.09. Left summit at 10.56, reached TH at 17.32.
Some tips to would-be summiters via this route:
- drink (water) like crazy the night before going
- do NOT drink alcohol the night before
- start EARLY (try to get above the initial 2,---' sandpile before the sun robs you of all your energy (i.e. before sunrise).
- bring at least 5L of water (bring too much, however, & the weight will slow you down)
- bring a 30-m rope & slings for potential rap's (retrieval line unnecessary)
- be comfortable soloing 4th-easy 5th- belays will at least double how long it will take you to complete the route
Met many great people on way. A two-fer day with Tyndall. Was sick in AM, but came through.
Bob Burd's description is really good -- not all flowery and full of nice pictures, but it hits the high and low points well.
That 1500' loose rock chute... sucks. Helmets might be a wise choice when many parties are in chute.
Climbed with my little bro and Bob Burd via George Creek and the SE Slopes/East face.
Sweet climb in perfect weather. 12:43 roundtrip.
Came from Shepard's pass. Climbed Tyndall the previous day.
Man, finally made it up this big thing, with kk6yb, Dan, and Mike. After two previous trips up the Shepherd Pass, once to look at and walk away from Williamson, once to climb Tyndall, it was good to finally make it up (and back). The bowl is quite a trudge, and the chimney gave me a challenge trying to reach holds my 3 taller companions had no trouble with. But, wow! My 3rd 14er.
The climb and descent was completed over four days in winter with my good buddy Kostas Stamatiou. Passing the horns was the hardest part. This route made me really hungry for like two weeks.
Climbed once from Shepherd's pass and once from Bair's creek. IMHO, the toughest 14er in california.
CLIMBED WITH LVMC MEMBERS PAUL, XAVIER, AND JILL FROM BASE CAMP AT SHEPARDS PASS
From Shepherd's Pass: Almost turned back just below the summit because it was getting late and had no idea how much further it would be. Good thing my partner had gone ahead and radio-ed that I was only 10 minutes away and to keep going!
South Fork: route finding is a little tricky, especially in winter, but I prefer it over the Sheep's Pass route by far!
One of my very first Sierra climbs. I remember lots of snow and good conditions for kicking steps. Great views - great mountain.
There was very little snow to contend with on this Memorial Day summit.
Really lucked out on the weather. Temps were nice and cool on the hike in and out. Climbing the chute was a bit tedious, but the class 3 at the end was fun.
A fun climb after a hellish approach. Secor's route accross the bowl is easy to find. Just stay between the two lakes and head for the North shore of the highest lake. At about 11am, after my descent, I saw two guys starting the same route. One of them later got off route and fell, breaking his arm and recieving a nasty gash across his forehead. On the way back to camp, I scrambled up Tyndall's North Rib which was a very cool climb.
That's one long hike. I thought the bowl would be a lot flatter - was I wrong... I'm glad the fires and smoke stayed away from us. Good climb with ChuckO. Excellent views and a great campsite by the pass.
Great peak, the chute wasn't bad at all (except that it's at alltitude), but the bowl completely deflated my enthusaism...it's not hard, it just wears on you.
Enough with the boulders! Wow that's a lot of rocks, and what were the engineers of the Shepards Pass Trail thinking? Nevertheless, awesome peak; worth the effort.
We camped by the lake closest to the black stain on the west face. On Saturday we climbed up the chute and chimney. The class 3 chimney was challenging and fun for someone who has barely done any class 3 before.
Made a solo attempt on the west face but came up short. Might give it another shot before July 15. There's still plenty of water on the way to the pass, and some snow right before the top of the pass but no big deal if you're going up late in the day.
Climbed with JG after camping at Shepard Pass.