Four Girls (Fourth Girl, Siguniang, Yaoniangfeng)

Overview

Other names of Four Girls Mountains are Siguniangshan, or Siguniang Mountains. These all have the same meaning. It is said that the Four Girls Mountains are the goddess of the mountains in southwestern China ( The king is Minya Konka). The highest peak in this area is Mount Fourth Girl (6250m), a knife edged rock peak. Mount Fourth Girl has three peaks on the southern ridge. These are called Third Girl(5355m), Second Girl(5276m) and First Girl(5025m).  

In July 1981, seven Japanese made first ascent via the southeast ridge. Refer to "http://www.doshisha-sports.net/record/contents/28_1.html".  

In July 1992, another seven Japanese made first ascent via the south face and west ridge. Refer to "http://www.jac.or.jp/info/kiroku/1993/yonko-page.htm". In October 1994, Charlie Fowler made ascent via the south face and the southeast ridge (In November 2006, he was killed in the avalanche at the west Sichuan). Refer to "http://www.charliefowler.com/writing.html".  

In April 2002, Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden made first ascent via the Northwest face. Refer to "http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/news/".  

In November 2004, two American and four Chinese made ascent via the south face and the southeast ridge. Refer to "http://www.adventure-video.com/siguniang/".  

In end of September 2008, Chad Kellog and Dylan Johnson made first ascent via the Southwest Ridge. Refer to "http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08f/newswire-siguniang-ascent ".  

In October 2009, four Russians made the ascent via the northwest face. Refer to "http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/china/sichuan-province/2009-siguniang-by-a-muryshev/".  

In November 2009, Yan Dongdong and Zhou Peng made first ascent via the new south face route. Refer to "http://www.emg.com.cn/showtxt.asp?id1=2&id=161" and "http://www.desnivel.com/object.php?o=19368".  

In October 2011,Dimitri Messina and Mael Baguet made the ascent via the northwest face. Refer to "http://www.ffcam.fr/index.php?alias=actualites&insidefile=ffcam_actuDetail.html&moid=4&tplentry=br&function=display&oid=T005:4oszqxnuk28e".  

In November 2011, Sun Bin and Li Zongli made ascent via the south face and the west ridge route. Refer to "http://bbs.tianyaclub.com/article.jsp?categoryId=843&id=693821". Even the easiest routes here are difficult climbs. In the past, few climbers attempted these peaks, one party or less every year. Recently, there has been a great increase in tourism. There has also been a corresponding increase in climbers’ attempts on these peaks. This area is in the eastern part on the Trans Himalayas which is called the treasury of the gene. It is at the eastern end of the Tibetan cultural sphere, too. A lot of flowers of alpine plants bloom in this steep and complicated landform of glacial origin. In 12th May 2008, Four Girls Mountains hitted by big earthquake what is call the Sichuan Earthquake. And it effected seriously to many peoples who live in the mountain. Please refer to the following section for further details.

Four Girls Mountains include many beautiful peaks such as the following;

1. Pomiu (Puniu, Shenshan, Celestial Peak) : 5413m
2. Daogou : 5465m
3. Fattening Sheep Plateau (Yangmantai) : 5666m
4. Seerdengpu : 5592m
5. Steeple (Jianzishan, Hunter Peak) : 5472m
6. Long Gorge (Lara Peak, Chang-gou) : 5700m
7. Chibu: 5450m
8. Camel(Luotuo) : 5484m
9. Mt.Abi : 5694m

Note-1 ) Another name of the main peak of Four Girls Mountains Generally, the local Tibetan peoples call the main peak and other three remarkable peaks of the southern side "Sukola"(phonetic notation is not strict) without distinguishing between them. This comes from the original name (refer to Note-2). Recently, many Chinese mountaineers have visited, and call the main peak (Fourth Girl) Yaoniangfeng. The general public Chinese refers to the Four Girls Mountains as Siguniangshan, Fourth Girl as Siguniang, Third Girl as Sanguniang, Second Girl as Erguniang, and First Girl as Daguniang. Note-2 ) The origin of the name of Four Girls Mountains The name of Four Girls Mountains comes from the original Tibetan name "sukolagidda" (phonetic notation is not strict). It means the mountain god which protects this local area where is called "rGyal-rong" or "rGyalmorong" or " the Queen Valley ". It is a generic name and not a proper noun. It does not have the meaning of the four girls or the four sisters. "The Four Girls Mountains" is the name what the Chinese created and recorded by the following process in the old times. a. Consider that this mountain group has four remarkable peaks. Chinese pronunciation of four is close to "su" in the Sichuan Province, and phonetic notation is "si". b. It can guess that the Chinese characters "sigu" look like the pronunciation of the Tibetan name"suko". c. The Chinese phonetic notation "gu" is close to the pronunciation of "ko". d. The Chinese phonetic notation of mothers-in-law is "gu", and a single woman (girl) is "gu-niang". The Chinese preferred girl to mothers-in-law. In this area, the Tibetan and the Chinese are changing from the old times. As a result, most Tibetans have forgotten the original Tibetan name or its meaning, and Chinese name or its meaning is in use. At present, only a few Tibetans like a high-ranking priest, hand down this process and the meaning of "sukolagidda". The story is of the incarnation of four girls who were sisters, who saved a panda, starting the local legend what was made in the times after this origin. Another new Chinese name of the highest peak (Fourth Girl) Yaoniangfeng, it means the peak of youngest girl. Getting There Mount Four Girls is located near the town of Rilong in Xiaojin County, Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture in the Sichuan Province. In the town of Rilong you can find many hotels. Beware that may 1st - 7th, and october 1st - 7th are a holiday in China, so the hotels are very crowded, and they also change their rates. Nearest major airport is in Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan Province. This is a 3-hour flight from Shanghai. From Chengdu it's a 6-hour bus trip to Rilong. Red Tape You pay the Management Bureau an entry fee (about $8) at the entrance gate in the Nature Reserve. There are three valleys in the Nature Reserve. At the entrance gate in each valley, you pay the entry fee and other (like a camping fee). At present, any climber who reaches the summit pays the Sichuan Mountaineering Association a mountaineering fee. Please inquire to the office at the entrance gate or the following for the details. The Sichuan Mountaineering Association "http://outdoors.www29.cn4e.com/sma/". Sometimes, the rules changes. You should confirm them at the entrance gate or at the travel agency. Camping Before setting up a tent, go to the entrance gate where you'll have to pay a fee. Mountain Conditions Will research this soon. For now see the Nature Reserve website. Also see external links below. http://www.sgns.gov.cn/scholaweb/conts.htm (Chinese) External Links Tibet-tours.com's Siguniang Shan Page Queen Valley The Goddess on the Mountains in Southwestern China An introduction to the mountain The total record of the ascent to the highest peak Mr.Yang Dongdong who was made ascent via the South Face in 2009 introduced the total record of the ascent to the highest peak. Please refer to the RockBeer . The status of the new routes and attempts The status of the new routes and attempts on Mount Fourth Girl by Cosmin : South: 1981 - Japanese team, SE ridge. FA of the mountain. Summit. Style - expedition siege. 1992 - Japanese team, SW ridge. Summit. Style - expedition siege 1997 Charlie Fowler, variation of the first Japanese route. Summit. Style: solo 2003 - Jon Otto, T Boelter, vcariation on the first Japanese route. Failed. Style - expedition siege 2004 - Jon Otto and a Chinese team, variation on the first Japanese route. Summit. Style - expedition siege 2006 - C. Andron, Waiwah Yip, SW face FA; no summit intended. Style: big wall 2006 - P Batoux and French team, attempt of new line on the S face. Failed. Style: alpine 2006 - Sun Bin (China) - Sept and Oct. attempts on SE face (Ch. Fowler route). Failed. Style: Alpine/Solo Trip report here: http://emg.com.cn/mountain_girl4justdoit.asp North: 1981 - J Tackle, J Donini, K Schmitz - attempt on the NW face. Failed. Style: big wall 2002 - M. Fowler, P. Ramsden - FA of the NW face. Summit. Style: alpine 2004 - Tom Chamberlain, Dave Evans, etc - attempt on the NW face. Failed. Style: alpine 2005 - Chad Kellogg, Joe Puryear and Stoney Richards - attempt on the NW face. Failed. Style: big wall 2006 - P Batoux and French team, FA of Siguniang N independent peak. Summit. Style: alpine Posted Nov 22, 2006 3:25 am The effects and repair work for the Sichuan Earthquake in Four Girls Mountains I understand what this article has nothing to do with the mountain climbing directly, but I think that it represent a part of the nature of Four Girls Mountains. Because a life of peoples who live in the mountain is a part of the nature of that mountain. And the earthquake effected seriously to these people. Then I posted in order to let Summit Poster knew this painful occurrence. Around eighty thousand peoples died and enormous houses were damaged by this arthquake. Even now, so many people live in shelter. At Four Girls Mountains where around 60km west from the center of the earthquake, many peoples suffered heavy damage, too.This article inroduce the effects and repair work in Four Girls Mountains as follows. May, 2008 : The effects of the Sichuan Earthquake. By the Sichuan Earthquake what was occured around the 14:30, May 12th and the center of the earthquake was located at southern part of Wenchuan County, the route of Balangshan Pass became closed to automobile traffic. The authorities estimate that it will need for several months to restore the route. The route of Jiajinshan Pass and Danba are passable. The main road at the Shuangqiaogou (Twin Bridge) Valley, the Changpinggou (Long Terrace) Valley and Haizigou (Lake) Valley are passable, but several roads on the branch valleys was buried by the rock collapse. Many of stone-piled houses at the Rilong Town were destroyed or the wall collapsed by the earthquake. But the multistoried ferroconcrete buildings like a hotel were almost undamaged. Fortunately, no one was injured. The electric power is under cut off at the Rilong except for the Changping Village, but some of the hotel has the private electric generator. August, 2008 : The relief supplies to the victims of the Sichuan Earthquake. Many volunteers in Japan and U.S.A presented 547 sheets of electric blankets to the Changping Village where suffered maximum damage at the Four Girls Mountains. They are the Japan-China friendship club 'The Great Distance' (include the Study Group of Trans-Himalayas), The Kagurazaka-Study Group of Architecture, Ms. Susan Malcher (a Summit Poster) and two others. At the Four Girls Mountains, it becomes cold from now. Especially in winter morning, it is awfully cold to -15 degree. Because a lot of villagers are sleeping in the shelter, the electric blanket is very useful. The set of stationery were presented to the childrens, too. ++++++ The summary report of the contribution to victims ++++++ *** The contribution : total 45,141 RMB *** 1. Japan-China friendship club 'The Great Distance' (include the Study Group of Trans-Himalayas) : remittance JPY500000*6.2293=31,146.50 RMB (Changed at 26th August) Contribute to Changping Village Note) The name of 'The Great Distance' comes from 'The Great Wall of China'. 2. Kagurazaka-Study Group of Architecture : Cash JPY173000*6.0979=10,549.37 RMB (Changed at 26th August) Contribute to Changping Village 2,749.37 RMB and to Danba 7,800.00 RMB 3. Ms. Susan Malcher (a Summit Poster) and two others : remittanceUS$500*6.8892=3,444.60 RMB (Changed at 16th June) Contribute to Changping Village *** The Expend : Total 45,141 RMB *** 1. Changping Village : Total 36,841 RMB, It was distributed at 30th August. The electric blanket for 277 families : 31,677 RMB The set of stationery for 80 children : 2,136 RMB Transportation cost : 2,800 RMB Traffic expenses in Chengdu : 228 RMB 2. Danba : Total 7,800 RMB, It was distributed at 18th September. Heavy dameged houses at Jiaju and adjoining villages : 5 houses*1500=7,500 RMB Traffic expenses in Danba : 300 RMB 3. The reward for interpretation and arrange to an interpreter : 500 RMB September, 2008 : The repair work for the Sichuan Earthquake. 1. Ttransportation The full-scale restoration construction in the Yingxiu - Wolong section becomes next year. Therefore the Route of Balangshan Pass (it takes 7 hours by car) is still blocked. The Route of Jiajinshan Pass (10 hours) and the Route of Danba (12 hours) are passable. But, the road condition of the Jiajinshan Pass is unsettled. The Route of Danba goes the long way. But, if you stay in Danba (2000 m above sea level) at night and adjust to altitude, you can ease the altitude sickness what is taken more or less in the Route of Balangshan Pass. Therefore, it is not worries that the Route of Balangshan Pass is blocked. The beautiful houses and the stone-piled tower of the Danba are world-wide fame, and worth seeing. It takes 1 hour from the Rilong Town to the Balanshan Pass by car. A foreigner is free to enter into Four Girls Mountains. 2. Power line and telephone All of the power station were restored, and supplies the electric power. Also the telephone line is live. 3. Hotel facilities It is possible to stay at many guest-houses. Most of the hotels are closing down because the tourist decreases sharply. 4. The broken houses The government of Jiangxi Province was decided the 200 million RMB aid to the Xiaojin prefecture (an administrative district what is include Four Girls Mountains), and the restoration construction of the houses will begins from next year. Some part of the houses had repaired on thier own. January, 2009 :The report for the restoration conditions from Sichuan Earthquake at the foot of the Four Girls Mountains Dear all, The Tibetan villagers who live in foot of the Four Girls Mountains and suffered heavy damage from the Sichuan Earthquake are passing the freezing winter without big trouble. It is owe a lot of electric blanket to yours. They are deeply grateful for your warmhearted support. Because it is soon goes on long day off of Spring Festival in our place, I give you a summary report for the restoration conditions. A reconstructed house after the earthquake came into existence for the first time, and the family is all very happy glad. But their income was dropped sharply by the sudden decrease of a tourist. Then they have a hard time making ends meet. However, they are better than the villagers who are not able to live in the house what broken badly by the earthquake. There are a lot of villagers who their house had been broken badly by the earthquake, and live in a shack beside the road and so on. This photo taken at just inside of the Changping Bridge where many shack gathered. At that place, an old woman did the washing with freezing water. These shabby shacks contrasted strikingly with the white big hotel at right hand side of background what is a ferroconcrete building and not suffered the damage by the earthquake. The government is helping all sorts of things, too. However, it is impossible to help sufficiently for each individual because there are so many victims. Because most of the villagers begin the restoration of their house after Spring Festival, they have a lot of expenses in this year, too. The previous villager who had reconstructed the house as well as a lot of villagers who live in the shack hope that the tourist returns early, their job increase and their income back to the previous level. The outlook to build a clinic of the village is in sight. The construction budget of the clinic is about 165,000 RMB. Already a NPO in Japan and the tourist agency at the Chengdu contributed with 70,000 RMB, and a foundation in USA decided a contribution with 65,000 RMB. Also, the government gets to aid with about 30,000 RMB. The clinic plans to be built in the place where was an evacuation area just after the earthquake, and complete within this year. By the way, the main route from the Chengdu to the Four Girls Mountains is still the Damba. A little track became coming and going through the route at the Wolong and the Balang Pass. However, because the road condition is not good yet, most of the vehicles are using a route at the Damba and the Jiajinshan Pass. Almost all the public bus what thinks much of the safety of the passenger is using a Damba route. At this January, the government is talking what put the Wolong route in better condition by this end of March, and makes way for a small car and the public bus. Incidentally, I take rest for a while with my family after this reporting. I wish you a happy agriculture New Year! From far the Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in China. January, 2010 : The report for the restoration conditions from Sichuan Earthquake Dear all, I wish you everything go very well. In last year, my area was very busy for restoration work from the Sichuan Earthquake, and the peoples who live in foot of mountains was seeing the old year out without incident. They are deeply grateful to yours. Wish you the best in the new year! I give you a summary report for the restoration conditions as follows. The restoration work is going well almost. It is owe a lot of support to yours and the government. The repair construction of the half of the houses what was broken by the earthquake was completed, and became possible to live. However, because the repair construction of another half was late, a part of villagers live in a shack and pass this winter, too. But the environment of living is much improved. The repair construction will be complete in this year. The construction of the new clinic of the village was carried over to next year, because make adjustment in the new reconstruction plan of the government. Irregular service by small buses what is from Rilong to Chengdu via Wolong is run. But, the public bus is using the Damba route. In this year, It is not sure what the public bus is use the Wolong Route or not. But it is sure what the public bus will use the Wolong Route when several tunnels in Wolong are complete after 3 years. The earthquake caused unexpected heavy burden for the villagers. I am tired out, too. Then I take rest for the time being after this reporting. I wish you a happy agriculture New Year! P.S. The web-site of the Four Girls Mountains Management Bureau is under repair, and it will be recover around mid January. Sorry. January, 2011 :The report for the restoration conditions from Sichuan Earthquake at the foot of the Four Girls Mountains Dear all, I wish you everything go very well. The Tibetan village at the foot of Four Girls Mountains had destroyed by the Sichuan Earthquake on 12 May 2008, but it was beautifully restored on December 2010. Also a small clinic what has been the villager's dearest wish for long years had realized, too. In the clinic, an oxygen inhaler and the Pulse Oximeter are installed soon. It owe to the large-scale financial assistance by the government and the support by the raised found, and the Tibetan villager deeply grateful.   This year, I will really make a comeback to SummitPost (^o^) Wishing you the best for the New Year! P.S. The web-site was erased by an accident recently, and it will be recover within this month. Sorry. (In this local area, there are not a few cases what are unbelievable ^^;)

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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Kenzo Okawa - Oct 2, 2004 11:51 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

A lot of thanks for your information, Bob. At present, I am in Chengdu to writing an article for the magazine. It is not sure what I return to Rilong in next week or not. Please ask to as follows hut for my whereabouts in Rilong : The Sun and Moon Mountain Cottage TEL 0837-2791389.
The entrance fee to enter theLake Valley is RMB60, and the manegement fee is RMB12/night tent which you paied. Moreover, there are some another charge like the mountaineering fee. The mountaineering fee to climb the summit of 5000m class will be US$30 (about250RMB). However, there is a dispute about the validity with these fee. Therefore, I regretfully can not conclude here yet.
(Please make you sure what many rules are ambiguous and many things are decided by the negotiation in here.)
Sincerely yours,
Kenzo

Kenzo Okawa - Feb 19, 2004 4:43 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

The Buddhist stupa inthe photo expressed well that Four Girls mountain is at the Tibetan cultural sphere. In summer, many Tibetan gather and pray to the god and dance. The hill in front is Guozhuangping Terrace.

BobK - Oct 2, 2004 5:13 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

Kenzo,
I missed you last week, you were not at home when I tried to contact you. I will be there again next week and will try again.

I was charged RMB60 to enter the park. I also had to pay a RMB12/night tent fee.
I told the people at the gate that I was only camping and not climbing. My guide suggested this in order to avoid the climbing fee. Even he was not sure what they would have tried to charge me.
The fee paid to the SMA is for a summit certification. I have also never paid, but I believe it is more than RMB100. this puts your name on the official list of summiters.

Kenzo Okawa - Oct 2, 2004 11:51 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

A lot of thanks for your information, Bob. At present, I am in Chengdu to writing an article for the magazine. It is not sure what I return to Rilong in next week or not. Please ask to as follows hut for my whereabouts in Rilong : The Sun and Moon Mountain Cottage TEL 0837-2791389.
The entrance fee to enter theLake Valley is RMB60, and the manegement fee is RMB12/night tent which you paied. Moreover, there are some another charge like the mountaineering fee. The mountaineering fee to climb the summit of 5000m class will be US$30 (about250RMB). However, there is a dispute about the validity with these fee. Therefore, I regretfully can not conclude here yet.
(Please make you sure what many rules are ambiguous and many things are decided by the negotiation in here.)
Sincerely yours,
Kenzo

chemist_14 - Jan 25, 2006 4:51 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

If you go to this link (http://www.dreams-travel.com/sz_news/sz_tq.htm) you can find very basic daily weather reports for the SiGuNiang area. I am not sure what location this data is taken from, but SiGuNiang is 5th from the top. The other info in the first 5 columns is as follows:

Area General weather Rain / Snow / Fog Tempearture Humidity

cosmin - Nov 22, 2006 3:25 am - Hasn't voted

UPDATE and additions

Hi, this is the status of the new routes and attempts on the fourth sister: South: 1981 - Japanese team, SE ridge. FA of the mountain. Summit. Style - expedition siege. 1992 - Japanese team, SW ridge. Summit. Style - expedition siege 1997 Charlie Fowler, variation of the first Japanese route. Summit. Style: solo 2003 - Jon Otto, T Boelter, vcariation on the first Japanese route. Failed. Style - expedition siege 2004 - Jon Otto and a Chinese team, variation on the first Japanese route. Summit. Style - expedition siege 2006 - C. Andron, Waiwah Yip, SW face FA; no summit intended. Style: big wall 2006 - P Batoux and French team, attempt of new line on the S face. Failed. Style: alpine North: 1981 - J Tackle, J Donini, K Schmitz - attempt on the NW face. Failed. Style: big wall 2002 - M. Fowler, P. Ramsden - FA of the NW face. Summit. Style: alpine 2004 - Tom Chamberlain, Dave Evans, etc - attempt on the NW face. Failed. Style: alpine 2006 - P Batoux and French team, FA of Siguniang N independent peak. Summit. Style: alpine

cosmin - Dec 19, 2006 9:52 am - Hasn't voted

one more attempt i forgot

North 2005 - Chad Kellogg, Joe Puryear and Stoney Richards - attempt on the NW face. Failed. Style: big wall

Kenzo Okawa - Dec 20, 2006 6:48 am - Hasn't voted

Re: one more attempt i forgot

Thanks for your information, cosmin! It was added in "The status of the new routes and attempts". Some Japanese challenge to North Face now. Afer I make sure that they made ascent or not, it is add to abobe item.

cosmin - Jan 3, 2007 5:49 pm - Hasn't voted

and one more

Apparently there was another attempt, besides the french one, on the South East side this autumn. 2006 - Sun Bin (China) - Sept and Oct. attempts on SE face (Ch. Fowler route). Failed. Style: Alpine/Solo Trip report here: http://emg.com.cn/mountain_girl4justdoit.asp

Kenzo Okawa - Jan 3, 2007 10:45 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: and one more

Thanks for your information, cosmin! It was added in "The status of the new routes and attempts". And I am very sorry to hear that Charlie Fowler was seems to lost with his friend in the avalanche at west Sichuan.

Diego Sahagún - Dec 14, 2009 7:10 pm - Hasn't voted

Espíritus libres, nueva vía en la cara sur del Siguniang

http://www.desnivel.com/object.php?o=19368

Kenzo Okawa - Dec 22, 2009 9:01 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Espíritus libres, nueva vía en la cara sur del Siguniang

Hello, Diego Many thanks for your notice. Today, I added the new record to the Sigunianshan Page. I am sorry what I made added the new record so late. Because I am so busy after the Sichuan Earthquake in last year. Please keep in tuch! Kenzo

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