The first ascent was performed by the British pioneers D. W. Freshfield and C. C. Tucker with the alpine guide Francois Dévouassoud on 1866, july 25th, along what is still the Normal route of the mountain today.
Among the other routes the best known are the "Spigolo Vinci", a fairly popular rock route on the South ridge of the Southern fore-summit (400 m, TD V + / A0 or up to 6a in free climbing) and the route Gaiser-Lehmann on the North-west spur, rising from the Cengalo glacier (1100 m, TD V +).
Unfortunately in the winter 2011 a large part of the north face was hit by a landslide which changed its appearance, destroying several existing climbing routes. Further landslides on the North-East side occurred in the August 2017, including one of colossal dimensions (approximately 4 million cubic meters of material are estimated), further modifying the conformation of the wall and devastating the underlying Val Bondasca.
Northern side: Val Bregaglia - can be reached by car from Milan (SS-36) - Milano - Lecco - Chiavenna .... Malojapass : along this road you can enter the Val Bondasca
Southern side: Valtellina - can be reached by car from Milan (SS-36) - Milano - Lecco - Colico .... Sondrio : along this road you can enter the Val Masino
starting points :
- Ardenno - bagni del Masino - for Val Porcellizzo (Italy)
- Bondo for val Bondasca (Switzerland)
- Rif. Gianetti 2534 m - Val Porcellizzo (Italian side)
- Rif. Sasc Furà 1904 m - Val Bondasca (Swiss side)
- Rif. Sciora 2118 m - Val Bondasca (Swiss side)
North wall the highest and most impressive wall
NW pillar (Gaiser-Lehmann) TD - as fine as the NE wall to Piz Badile - 700 m + final ridge (WSW) -- (more pics from Lorenz) - NNW wall (Schnitzler-Schocher-Borghese) - the classic - D - a big wall and a grand course - looks like a Mont Blanc Group classic - NNW wall (Rusconi-Seinkotter-Tessari-Fabbrica) - few infos on it - NNW wall eastern pillars - (Kasper-Koch) - ED - 600 m to get the classic route
East ridge - (Bonacossa-Prochownick) - D - 250 m - fantastic rock and climb
on this wall many routes and variants, difficulties starting from AD sup : the most important are the Bonacossa-Polvara and the via Chiara (Gugiatti)
South ridge 2 different possibilities on this ridge : - Via Vinci - TD - the finest climb you can make starting from Gianetti Hut --(more pics from Lorenz) - Via Bonacossa - D - this route goes round the Vinci route avoiding the main difficulties
South-west wall this is a wall that ends, after about 150m on easy rocks under the normal route, some routes on this wall can be used if you find Vinci route too difficult.
On this side some secondary towers (Selene and Sinistra) can be used for sport climbing
the normal route - F or PD - snow and rock - wonderful views
Gaiser Lehmann (NW pillar)
Vinci route (S ridge)
No fees no permits required.
South-east side can be ready to climb in june, anyhow the descent could be a little complicate
all other sides from july to september
beware of bad weather, very dangerous on this summit just as on the near Piz Badile
3 confortable huts give you the possibilities you need.
“Masino Bregaglia Disgrazia” Vol. I by Alberto Bonacossa and Giovanni Rossi, Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI
- CNS - Swiss National Map sheet 1296 - Sciora, scala 1:25.000 - Kompass, foglio 92, Chiavenna - Val Bregaglia, scala 1:50.000 -
climberland: link to a page about Gaiser-Lehmann spur
climberland: link to a page about Vinci edge