Hintere Schwärze (Cima Nera)

Overview

Interesting peak in the main range of the Ötztal Alps on the border of Austria and Italy (North and South Tyrol), east from the Similaun. Fourth highest peak of the Ötztal Alps (after Wildspitze, Weißkugel, Hinterer Brochkogel).
The northern side is glaciated almost to the top, the south side is rocky. The N-face is in better shape than the Similaun north face. The normal ascent from west is a nice, easy glacier climb from Martin-Busch-Hut. Fewer people climb the Hintere Schwärze than the popular Similaun.

The German name may also be written Hintere Schwaerze without the Umlaut.


First ascents:

normal route: E. Pfeiffer, B. Klotz, J. Scheiber (10.9.1867)
north face: H. Angerer, S. Plattner (1912)
north ridge: H. Heß, L. Purtscheller (1877)

Route Overview

1. Normal route from west: Heavily crevassed glacier, not very steep, in good conditions moderate glacier climb, also ski route

2. North ridge: Starts like #1, contiunes to Hinteres Schwärzenjoch, north ridge, mostly rock, UIAA II

3. North face: classic north face, 50-55 degree ice, 300 m

Getting There

See excellent Similaun page

Red Tape

See excellent Similaun page

When To Climb

Summer season: June - August
Later in the season more difficult and dangerous if icy.
End of June 2002 conditions were perfect. June 2002 was much hotter than average.
For the N-face: May-June is probably best.

Winter Season:
The normal route from west can be made on skis, for avalanche risk preferably in Spring (March - April, Martin-Busch-Hut is open during this time).

Camping

See excellent Similaun page

Mountain Conditions

See excellent Similaun page

External Links

• Bergsteigen.at
  Description of the N-face (in German)
  
• Steinmandl.de
  Route description with pictures (in German)
  
• Bergzeit.de
  Route description with pictures and map (in German)
  
• Austrian Map online
  Online digital maps of Austria (OEK 50, OEK 200 and OEK 500) by the BEV (Bundesamt für Eich- und Vermessungswesen) - in German
  

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Images

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