With good pix and diagram picture of the top
It is good to see such a heavily sought after route page handled by someone with your mountaineering knowledge and command of the language. This is a High Quality site.
This page will come in handy someday.(soon I hope)
Thanks for your kind words. I'm glad you found it helpful and accurate.
I have made a goal to do this route in 2008, I do not feel ready just yet. I found your page very helpful, and I plan to review your page a few more time before our trip. Thank you.
Early in the season it is considered poor etiquitte to glissade down the Mountaineer's Couloir. Ruins the chute for skiers.
has anyone been up the route recently? I was wondering what the snow conditions in the chute will be, especially at the top. we're heading up there june 4
Thank you for a detailed description of a much better alternative to the standard trail. One point worth noting is that above Upper Boy Scout Lake to the left of the trail there is a hidden small lake, Thor lake (about alt. 11,700 ft) which is well sheltered from the wind & cold. We camped there overnight, close to the east shore & left our gear before starting at 4:30 AM the next morning towards Iceberg lake and the East Face.
The main route goes up and left right after the notch with a one rather exposed 5th class move. I've always traverse the talus angling west going up and reversed this coming down. Less direct but easier. (?) [Less scary]
Am planning a return trip (didn't have time to summit the first trip) in late June and noticed the "Time Required: Half a day" part in the description. Uh, ok so I'm not an expert in alpine but I'm not a novice and I can't imagine any scenario where you could start in the parking lot, summit via Mountaineer's, and return to your car, in a half a day. Is that supposed to be like starting from Iceberg? Or from the parking lot to the BASE of the notch? Seems like some clarity here might be wise to prevent newbies from not being adequately prepared.
I am a little confused by the permit situation. If I wanted to do a multi-day trip there, would I still have to do the lottery thing? I would assume so, but maybe you can help me answer this question.
It is definitely still possible to get yourself off-trail on this route. I don't think I would call the entrance to the ledges a 3rd-class chute...the use trail crosses the creek and takes you right to the start of the ledges. If you're looking for a 3rd-class chute, you can find one, but it's a much longer chute that leads up the rib separating the Mountaineer's Route from the Mt. Whitney Trail. Bad news. The best description might be to stay very close to the creek until you get to the start of the ledges.
Also, might be helpful for some guidance on where to climb up the chute to the notch. From afar the chute is obvious, but once you're in it, each direction can look about the same. I was worried about getting too close to the steep stuff on the left and ended up too far right (and climbed up a Class 3-4 chute and did a very exciting, airy traverse on the ridgeline). Some of this climbing was so sketchy that the last 500 feet above the notch felt like a breeze!