Nice and easy climb from the Cabane the Moiry to the eastern summit over the NE Ridge. Traverse to the western summit is a little bit more sustained and accounts for the grade (PD+).
Descent over the WSW Ridge and on to the Col de Mourti can be tricky in late season. Descent from the Col the Mourti to the Cabane the Moiry (PD+) should be avoided. Difficult route finding, steep slopes, bad rock quality and difficult passages over the moraine of the retreating glacier. Conditions as described in older guidebooks are nowhere to be found anymore, hence increasing to the overall difficulty of the expedition!
Traverse from the Col de Mourti to Wsummit, traverse to Esummit and down normal route to Moiry. Very nice complete alpine outing. Climb to Col de Mourti from Moiry side looks very rotten on rock. Thanks to the early moment in the season we had an easy snow couloir all the way up.
same course different day
The most fun climb I've done so far. When the face is in good condition, it is very worthwhile to go there. We climbed it shortly after a day of heavy snow and found only one rope length of ice. See the North Face page which I made.
Did this as part of an ISM course (great company, definitely recommend). Tons of fun. Slighty exposed ridge to the finish. There was a lot of snow when we were there. It looked very different from the pictures. There was no one in the valley either which was really nice!
Climbed as part of ISM course. Good fun- first alpine style ascent.
A good wee training climb on a staightforward rock ridge to a summit snow ridge. Enjoyable with good views towards our previous years route on the Grand Cornier.
my first summit at the Alps!