It's a nice peak that would have been paired with Grand Cornier, but unfortunately we ran out of good weather and time. The approach to the ridge is long, but fairly gentle, covering a lot of horizontal, so factor this in to your time. The ridge itself is simple, with a few passages of II (and III if less optimal route choices are made). The ridge gets the sun quite a bit, so despite some snow on the rocks, there was no need for crampons.
The route to the ridge avoids most of the crevasse fields, though there are still some small crevasses on the route (small enough to step over).
The final glacier to the summit seems to be at the right angle to avalanche. We were going through power snow up there, so be mindful after storms.
Farmer - Nov 24, 2019 1:30 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2019
SE ridge
Nice route, good access from the valley... (day trip_)
Route Climbed: Traverse E-W Date Climbed: september 2012
Nice and easy climb from the Cabane the Moiry to the eastern summit over the NE Ridge. Traverse to the western summit is a little bit more sustained and accounts for the grade (PD+).
Descent over the WSW Ridge and on to the Col de Mourti can be tricky in late season. Descent from the Col the Mourti to the Cabane the Moiry (PD+) should be avoided. Difficult route finding, steep slopes, bad rock quality and difficult passages over the moraine of the retreating glacier. Conditions as described in older guidebooks are nowhere to be found anymore, hence increasing to the overall difficulty of the expedition!
Koen - Jul 7, 2012 2:40 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2012
Traverse
Traverse from the Col de Mourti to Wsummit, traverse to Esummit and down normal route to Moiry. Very nice complete alpine outing. Climb to Col de Mourti from Moiry side looks very rotten on rock. Thanks to the early moment in the season we had an easy snow couloir all the way up.
Juanneman - Jun 5, 2012 4:06 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2010
The most fun climb I've done so far. When the face is in good condition, it is very worthwhile to go there. We climbed it shortly after a day of heavy snow and found only one rope length of ice. See the North Face page which I made.
camerona91 - Nov 24, 2006 4:26 am Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2006
First alp summit
Did this as part of an ISM course (great company, definitely recommend). Tons of fun. Slighty exposed ridge to the finish. There was a lot of snow when we were there. It looked very different from the pictures. There was no one in the valley either which was really nice!
igneouscarl - Jul 10, 2006 6:46 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2006
1st apline ascent
Climbed as part of ISM course. Good fun- first alpine style ascent.
Route Climbed: The Ridge facing the Glacier above Moiray Hut. Date Climbed: August 2002.
A good wee training climb on a staightforward rock ridge to a summit snow ridge. Enjoyable with good views towards our previous years route on the Grand Cornier.
Tugrul - Sep 27, 2021 11:45 pm Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2021
Normal RouteIt's a nice peak that would have been paired with Grand Cornier, but unfortunately we ran out of good weather and time. The approach to the ridge is long, but fairly gentle, covering a lot of horizontal, so factor this in to your time. The ridge itself is simple, with a few passages of II (and III if less optimal route choices are made). The ridge gets the sun quite a bit, so despite some snow on the rocks, there was no need for crampons.
The route to the ridge avoids most of the crevasse fields, though there are still some small crevasses on the route (small enough to step over).
The final glacier to the summit seems to be at the right angle to avalanche. We were going through power snow up there, so be mindful after storms.
Farmer - Nov 24, 2019 1:30 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2019
SE ridgeNice route, good access from the valley... (day trip_)
il.rocciatore - Sep 25, 2012 5:13 pm
Route Climbed: Traverse E-W Date Climbed: september 2012Nice and easy climb from the Cabane the Moiry to the eastern summit over the NE Ridge. Traverse to the western summit is a little bit more sustained and accounts for the grade (PD+).
Descent over the WSW Ridge and on to the Col de Mourti can be tricky in late season. Descent from the Col the Mourti to the Cabane the Moiry (PD+) should be avoided. Difficult route finding, steep slopes, bad rock quality and difficult passages over the moraine of the retreating glacier. Conditions as described in older guidebooks are nowhere to be found anymore, hence increasing to the overall difficulty of the expedition!
Koen - Jul 7, 2012 2:40 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2012
TraverseTraverse from the Col de Mourti to Wsummit, traverse to Esummit and down normal route to Moiry. Very nice complete alpine outing. Climb to Col de Mourti from Moiry side looks very rotten on rock. Thanks to the early moment in the season we had an easy snow couloir all the way up.
Juanneman - Jun 5, 2012 4:06 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2010
ISM coursesame course different day
ThomasOldeHeuvelt - Sep 13, 2008 2:22 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2008
North FaceThe most fun climb I've done so far. When the face is in good condition, it is very worthwhile to go there. We climbed it shortly after a day of heavy snow and found only one rope length of ice. See the North Face page which I made.
camerona91 - Nov 24, 2006 4:26 am Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2006
First alp summitDid this as part of an ISM course (great company, definitely recommend). Tons of fun. Slighty exposed ridge to the finish. There was a lot of snow when we were there. It looked very different from the pictures. There was no one in the valley either which was really nice!
igneouscarl - Jul 10, 2006 6:46 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2006
1st apline ascentClimbed as part of ISM course. Good fun- first alpine style ascent.
Gaffr - Sep 3, 2004 10:38 am
Route Climbed: The Ridge facing the Glacier above Moiray Hut. Date Climbed: August 2002.A good wee training climb on a staightforward rock ridge to a summit snow ridge. Enjoyable with good views towards our previous years route on the Grand Cornier.
kimmenn - Aug 3, 2004 2:35 am
Date Climbed: 27, june 2003my first summit at the Alps!