Eichorn West Face Direct

Topping out on the first pitch of the West Pillar Direct on Eichorn Pinnacle. This bit went 5.9 and with completely frozen fingers and toes was plenty enough for me. Good to have a great partner!
Photo by Vitaliy M.
September 2013

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Marcsoltan

Marcsoltan - Oct 8, 2013 10:23 am - Voted 10/10

Wow!!!

You followed a 10b pitch to the top?
That is totally awesome Chad.

mrchad9

mrchad9 - Oct 8, 2013 12:14 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Wow!!!

Well not quite Marc! 5.9 was as much as I could do that day. I have a bit of frostnip in my fingers from a year or two ago, my hands got really cold that morning and by the end of the first pitch I'd pretty much lost all feeling in them.

Still I don't know if I could have done the 10b move properly. It was impressive watching Vitaliy knock it out. It's right above the belay station and it didn't take me long to decide to step on the piton to hoist myself past it. Would be fun to try bouldering or on a warmer day though! Considering everything, I was quite happy with how the day went.

Marcsoltan

Marcsoltan - Oct 8, 2013 12:53 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Wow!!!

Don't sell yourself short. I am very impressed by you doing the 5.9 off-width. Most people hate off widths because they are all about technique and not much power. You can acquire power without too much trouble but getting the technique down is much harder.
Great job all around.

mrchad9

mrchad9 - Oct 9, 2013 12:06 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Wow!!!

Yes, it was a bit of a learning experience for me. I've been used to 5.7-5.9 chimneys, corners, faces, cracks... doing what for me was a higher level off-width (or the more difficult laybacks) made it feel a lot harder than 5.9! I managed to get by that without cheating but I was glad I had some backup. Your comments are too generous Marc but I appreciate them!

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