Mrs. Butterworth (aka Tooele Tower) Climber's Log

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Alex Wood

Alex Wood - Mar 26, 2013 2:48 am Date Climbed: Mar 22, 2013

Burly Apporach  Sucess!

Misread the beta and I thought it was only a half hour approach. Turns out it is an hour and a half if you know where you are going. Dow's directions are pretty damn good though. The NW corner is the key to finding this! Be prepared to get dirt in your shoes if you dont't have gaiters. The views are not notch for the entire climb and approach!


JoeAllen - May 19, 2008 7:34 pm Date Climbed: May 18, 2008

Don't fall into the crevasse.  Sucess!

Make sure and get an early start. The sun hit the route at about 12:30pm. The climbing was fun. Pitch 1 had some cool jamming, pitch 2 passes some bad rock and leads into an enjoyable finger crack that ends at a huge ledge that is separating from the wall. Hope your partner knows his crevasse rescue if you fall into this chasm. Pitch 3 is the crux with a finger lock that leads into a tricky mantle over the chasm. The view from the summit is one of the best in all of Southern Utah.

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - May 19, 2008 1:21 pm Date Climbed: May 18, 2008

Mrs. Buttersworth  Sucess!

Felt like an idiot doing this thing twice until I saw Zach and Joe's (French)summit sign ins. I owed Joe A a trip up here for him doing a repeat for me last week. Long frigging approach when it is 100F outside, damn, and loose as a Vegas escort. Great view though. With David from UK and Joe A. Climbing consolidated sand, what more can one ask for? The dude below is re-naming Zion towers to his own liking in 1998? lol

stroker - Jan 6, 2006 12:14 am

Route Climbed: Back Side Date Climbed: October, 1998  Sucess!


first ascent: Todd Stephens and Troy Anderson

October, 1998

I got the first ascent of this route and tower. I heard rumors floating around Springdale that the tower had been climbed. So much loose and foggy information was available that my partner Todd and I carried full aid/wall racks up to the thing! When I reached the top of the third pitch (the summit) I couldn't find any anchors. The sun was setting and we forgot head lamps. I had to drill a bolt and pound a knifeblade in the dark. For the next rappells we had to leave cams and slings. About two weeks later, we came back and put bolt anchors where the cams were. The anchor at the start of the third pitch wasn't there during the first ascent, I climbed the crux with a bird-beak pounded into a shallow hole. This shallow hole was later turned into the bolt anchor. About a year later 11 people stood on the summit at the same time. We moved all the debris and rock on the summit to see if there was another anchor or slings left by an earlier party than that of my first ascent. Nothing was found. I got on rope and explored over the edges of the summit in search of older anchors, yet nothing was found. To this day, my first ascent of this tower is discredited. Still, the "locals" claim that it was done in the 1980's. To this day, I have found nobody that can explain how this tower was climbed before me. I named the tower TOOELE TOWER in honor of mine and Todds hometown. I had a name for the route, but forgot. BACKSIDE works well.


Troy Anderson

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Nov 7, 2005 2:20 pm

Route Climbed: Backside Date Climbed: October 7, 2005  Sucess!

Went in 2004 scoping the route out, but ended up venturing out onto the wrong part of the feature. Coming back in 2005 with two local partners made the difference. But we still took 30 minutes trying to determine the start of the route. Had a very interesting bee experience. BLM land in this area is as wild as neighboring Zion National Park. Due to the approach, this is a good one to expect to be alone. Would like to visit again and explore some of the other crags. It is all good in this part of Utah.

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