Mt. Arapit South Face (2217M)

An Unclimbed 1000 Meter Wall in Continental Europe? Huh?

A fine picture of the 1000 meter South Face of Mt. Arapit (2217m), the 'Matterhorn' of Albania, just outside of the village of Theth. A reported 'Master's Route' goes up to the left, and the main face has been climbed to 1/3, before moving onto the ridge to the right. A direct big wall route up the main vertical face from the bottom has yet to be managed. - photo courtesy Ralf Gentsch


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jue - Jun 1, 2010 7:10 am - Hasn't voted

Maya Arapit

Could you kindly advise who has climbed the above mentioned routes. I would like to get in touch with the climbers to exchange some info. We have been looking for a route two weeks ago and intend to come back during the summer to make an attempt. The left side for sure looks more stable. And one more thing- the wall is not 1000 meters, but a bit less. 950 meters is the elevation from the beginning of the wall to the peak itself. But you can`t see the summit on that photo. The highest point is beyond the two peaks shown here and it`s accessible by walking. This photo is taken from Teth village and the peak can be seen from the ridge Chafa Peje, which is up to 2.30 hours from Teth by walking.

stahlhans - Jun 30, 2010 3:54 pm - Hasn't voted


Hi jue,
I´m the one who took the photo. The route that moves out right was done by Albanians and the shorter one left by Austrians. Unfortunately there are no written records of that, at least not in another language. I´ve got another photo with the routes drawed in. I know at least that Kujtim Onuzi (get contact on facebook) repeated the right route. Some friends of mine want to ascend a route through the center in late July and August (contact:
The height: it´s right, the steep part is probably a bit less, with my maps I couldn´t find it out. In case I´m back there for more work, I´ll try to find out more from Albanien climbers, so give me a contact (not facebook). I´m looking forward to exchanging info with you.


stahlhans - Aug 20, 2010 5:17 am - Hasn't voted

Route done

The German team finished a new route through the central part of the wall just a few days ago. A report and more information is available on In the moment only in German but more and an English version will follow.
18 pitches - 950m - UIAA 8 (7obl.)

Congratulations to the team!


stahlhans - Aug 20, 2010 6:23 am - Hasn't voted

little correction

Spelling mistake:

Tomek Lodowy

Tomek Lodowy - Nov 11, 2010 7:56 am - Voted 10/10

what a story

Unbelievable secrets of Prokletije...

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