Mt Huntington

Mt Huntington

May 29th, 2006 - Mt Huntington seen from the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier. This gigantic face rises 5,000 ft above the gorge where it is only 1 mile wide! This NE face has only been climbed once due to the objective danger of the numerous seracs, and avalanches of the face sweep completely across the gorge, so when storms move into the area, passage out of the gorge is highly dangerous (see below discussion on the ascent).
on Jun 11, 2006 5:30 pm
Image Type(s): Ice Climbing,  Alpine Climbing,  Scenery
Image ID: 199675


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MichaelJ - Jun 11, 2006 6:51 pm - Hasn't voted


Hey, what happened on your trip?


PellucidWombat - Jun 11, 2006 6:55 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: TR?

Hey, the weather was unfavorable for safe climbing conditions, so we were never able to get off the glacier - trip report will be posted soon. It was a bit of a bummer, but I still learned a lot, found some great partners, and I'm very familiar in how to plan such a trip again in the future.

BTW, thanks for sending the TR and photos from Liberty Ridge - it sounded like quite an epic. I'm glad you got out all right.


tphubbard - Aug 27, 2006 10:59 pm - Voted 10/10

Good pic

You can kind of understand why no one has bothered to try to climb it!

Mark Doswald

Mark Doswald - Feb 1, 2008 11:11 pm - Hasn't voted


It kind of looks like K2, the rupal face side.

gav p - May 26, 2008 2:56 pm - Hasn't voted


This face was climbed in 1978 (Timeless Face VI 5.9 WI5, McCartney-Roberts). Simon McCartney and Jack Roberts survived five epic days of objective danger and near death experience to arrive at the summit, before taking a further five to get descend and reach their base camp, each 25lbs lighter from the experience. Their route pretty much goes up the centre of the wall, and remains unrepeated. See Alpinist 20 for info.


96avs01 - Jun 9, 2009 11:09 pm - Voted 10/10


I will now wipe up my pile of drool. Sweet shot!


Bluecube22 - Mar 7, 2011 2:03 am - Voted 10/10

MT Hunnington

Incredible! I'm planing a trip this summer 2011 any info would be of help we are thinking about leaving in June to attempt the French ridge Route last climbed in 1964.


PellucidWombat - Mar 7, 2011 1:24 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: MT Hunnington

About all I could be good for on this one is the logistics and details of getting to the mountain. But it definitely is a peak I'd love to do someday!

Best of luck on your climb, and if you have any questions about getting there or of the area in general, PM or e-mail me and I can probably answer some questions.



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