Mt Russell, Fishook Arete

Overview

Mt Russell Sits just to the North of Mt Whitney. Conected by an acient spine of rock, this red headed stepchild doesn't get the attention of it's big brother but is an excellent climb in it's own right. Mt Russell is a California 14'er @ 14,086. It features a 360 view from the summit.

Getting There

The aproach to Mt Russell's "Fishook Arete" is via the N Fork of Lone Pine creek. Leave the Mt Whitney trail at sign for the "mountaineers Route" and follow it to Iceberg Lake. From the South end of the lake, traverse the west shore until you can head straight up to a notch (west). There is a faint climbers trail (steep) Once over the notch head North again picking up a climbers trail that heads to the base of the arete.

Route Description

There are many options to start this climb. P1 5.9 We took the crack system on the outside (south) face of the Arete where it first starts to get big. Gain a belay on the Arete itself. P2 Easier 5th class climbing up the ridge takes you to a nice belay at the base of the tower. P3 5.9 climb up the ridge staying near the arete itself, making an improbable move right (crux), continue (or belay here) and pass the tower on Left to belay. P4 5.8 this is a fun pitch. Do a funky mantel on to the ridge and walk along the spine to a flat ledge. From here Down lead into the notch. You can bail from here but don't. P5 Climb a long pitch to good belay spot. P6 5.8 continue up on steadily harder climbing until a wide crack is encountered. Squirm up this crack and belay at a big ledge. P7 Climb up the Arete until you encounter a huge detached Flake. You will be comming up the left side. The gap gets wider and you end up on top of it. lean forward and step over to the wall. Either take the crack 5.9 or foot traverse over to the right edge and go up and traverse back to a little cave. You must take a second and look down. This is the most exposed section of the climb and by far the most fun. Belay from top of the block (above cave) P8 Climb up and traverse to the left side of the Arete. P9 climb to the summit and enjoy the views.

Essential Gear

Standard Alpine rack

External Links

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Decent

Follow the ridge East for 2-300 ft until you get to the 2nd gully. Down climb steep 4th class to easy talus decent. It's easy to get back to the base if you want to leave stuff there.

Images

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