Great climbing on a perfect rock : the quartzite on Sir D. ensures a wonderful climbing experience. The exposure is constant. We descended via the summit bypass, which involves some route finding: look for the cairns. The down climbing part is fine and the rappels well equipped. Overall do not underestimate the descent. Total time from lower bivy and back: 13 hours.
a long but fun route
A fitting end to a long, fun traverse from Avalanche Mountain. I almost wish I had brought a rope, as the down-climb took longer than going up. Trip report.
Great climbing the whole way. A real beauty.
One of the few ascents this year due to snow. Hour and a half up route from col all without rope. Many many raps to get down.
Bivied at the new area (2.5hr hike), then climbed the next day. About an hour to the col, then 3.25 to the summit simulclimbing the whole way. Descended by going over the top, then traversing the west face back to the ridge. Windy, cloudy day turned into a thunderstorm at this point, making for an exciting descent. We took the rap stations down the ridge, then down the gully, making it back to camp in a little over four hours. Great climb.
Scary looking route from the col. Don't lose heart. The route is great, but long. Don't even think about pitching it out! Study the rappel topo very well, it's all there and very reasonable. Retracing the ridge would have taken us a long time.
Great climb with Robert Meshew and Mark Pratt. Soloed the ridge up, then simul-climbed with Robert down. We tried the south face rappels, but eventually lost the line of stations, so had to make a sketchy traverse back to the ridge crest. Lots of exposure on this one!
Tough day of climbing, unfortunatley saw a woman slip through the end of her rap rope. Really sad situation.
great route. We made the mistake of bringing rope & gear which only made for a hassle. Rope did come in handy for rapping the S Face after our feet started to hurt from all the downclimbing!